Nintendo64/Gameboy advance

[snowpenguin]

Alright. I did a little math. Ohm's law says:

I=P/E
I is current
P is watts
E is voltage

So, for 6 amps at 12v:
6=P/12
That's a 72 watt solar panel to get 12v at 6 amps.


Here ya go! Got $500?

Don't forget your screen! You need even more for that.

 

[designer noob]

At least, I learned an equation after all of this.

I will build one once I get a job.

 

[snowpenguin]

Nope, you never can get enough of ohm's law. Very useful. Like, so useful that you can't even get by in electronics without it. Good luck with your portablez.

 

[designer noob]

kk well, thanks.

 

[designer noob]

switches came today. I have to do a lot tomorrow, bu I should be able to stay up pretty late and try to do most of it.

Update: I took apart my other multi switch
Update: I built another multi switch
Update: soldered 4 poles of wires on
Update: power, ground
Update: screen power, screen ground

I would do more, but I have to charge my batteries. They are probably like at 1v. I will be doing this over night.

I hope to make a case using the plastic and build two of draft mikes battery indicators. One for 8.4v and another for 6.9v. It depends though, I still need my LED which haven't arrived. I will also, fill another switch using it for the fan; fan power, and ground. If I have time, I will also, do the LED mod for the screen.

 

[designer noob]

My battery use to never get a green light, but turn to yellow at like 8.2v. It know charges to 8.4v and turns green.

 

[designer noob]

I took off the ground on the screen to see if that was messing it up, but its not the problem becasue I noticed that I can turn the GBA on for about 15 seconds and then go to the n64. If I keep the GBA on for more than 20 seconds and then try to turn on the N64 its won't turn on any more.

This can't be a wiring problem, if it was they would short right away.

Any ideas?

 

[designer noob]

I think for my first diagram it looks pretty good


I took off the ground on the screen to see if that was messing it up, but its not the problem becasue I noticed that I can turn the GBA on for about 15 seconds and then go to the n64. If I keep the GBA on for more than 20 seconds and then try to turn on the N64 its won't turn on any more. The green LED light on the converter never comes on or the GBA LED light, but after 20 seconds the GBA grounds it self.

This can't be a wiring problem, if it was they would short right away.

Any ideas? Only thing I could think of was that the 12v DC in can't handle the amps.(I don't know just throwing stuff out there)

Also, I posted a diagram of how I hooked it up in my thread. I think it looks pretty nice.

 

[designer noob]

The N64 works perfectly when turned on so, that means the problem lies when the GBA is turned on.

Well, palmer tech said that the composite of the N64 and GBA have to be seperate or this could cause a ground. But, at the time no composite was hooked up so, it couldn't be.

Then it came to me.... The answer. The problem is that the Right and left audio are not seperate. The n64 turns on everything is working perfectly. The screen sends voltage down the right and left audio to the N64 and it recieves it.

But, if you turn on the GBA there are still wires going from the screen to the N64. So, voltage still goes to the N64 when it turns off. This would explain how the N64 works perfectly and when you turn on the GBA it doesn't. This would also explain how the GBA takes a while to short out. Maybe the voltage sent down the Right and Left audio isnt very much so, it doens't really do anything for a while.

What do you think?

I am going to bed or I would see if my idea works.

 

[XCVG]

I don't know, but I would shoot for COMPLETE isolation. EVERY connection to/from the consoles gets switched. Power, video, EVERYTHING, even ground.

 

[designer noob]

Yeah, I will be trying this in an hour, don't feel like doing it now.

 

[designer noob]

Well, I did it and same problem. I have isolated every wire from each system.

The only thing I can think about know is re wiring the whole thing.

 

[designer noob]

Update: isolated composite, right and left audio. I also, had to desolder the a/v switch and put it on the main line before the switch.
Update: I had big wires soldered onto little wires so, they broke and I relocated to back of board.
Update: added fan
Update: fan didn't have cover on back, so I made one with a metal sheat and duck tape to raise it up/cover
Update: shortened all wires so, everything is very compact. I had wires that were very long and went in circles
Update: Some other minor things


I can't make case until wednesday so, thats when I will have ever thing almost wired up

 

[designer noob]

Update: I found the problem. I don't know how I haven't tired this before, but I desoldered the Positive and negative from the converter to the GBA and I can now put power to the converter. I don't think that the converter gives power to the GBA.

I have an extra pth0800 and I will just use that to power it. I am tired of this crap. I am really bored of this project so, I am just going to get it over with and problem solved.

Update: I just checked the voltage reading on the positive and negative going to the GBA. Well, first both of them are sending out 7.94v even the negative. I don't think you GBA has a regulator. So, the 7.94v going to the ground and positive is the problem.

Update: I just checked the ground that I hook up to the screen. Its not ground.


Idea Since, everything is positive how I don't know. Do you think I can hook up the main ground to the GBA then to the screen. Give 12v to the converter and then give 5v to the GBA?

But wait

Another, problem has arrived. I don't know why one arrives right after the other, but what ever. The video doesn't show up any more. I have a couple of ideas and I will test them out in a little.

 

[Basement_Modder]

I don't know, but I would shoot for COMPLETE isolation. EVERY connection to/from the consoles gets switched. Power, video, EVERYTHING, even ground.

You don't need to switch that much.

 

[XCVG]

I don't know, but I would shoot for COMPLETE isolation. EVERY connection to/from the consoles gets switched. Power, video, EVERYTHING, even ground.

You don't need to switch that much.

Actually, you should, because if you don't you can (theoretically at least) have voltage going odd places in odd ways.

 

[designer noob]

Update: built a 8.4v LED light indicator for when my batteries are at 8.4v since my charger will be inside my portable
Update: built a 6.9v LED light indicator for when to turn off portable
Update: I built my own connector for a wire so, I don't have two huge prongs coming from my portable

I will be doing more just taking a break


This story is amazing. I am god himself. On the back of the screen where you put in composite there is a tiny tiny piece that bridges the two spots. Well, I removed that tiny piece and my composite didn't work. The screen would flicker. I found it in my solder and I some how put it back in place to bridge the connection. It now works. You guys might not care, but I am god.

Problem: The message saying no controller is inserted is now paneling. The message shuffles down and then comes back to the top. It repeats this like there is no ground, but the message wouldn"t show up unless ground was connected. When I don't turn ground on on my a/v switch it does the same thing.

Well, I tried fixing the paneling and I removed another one of those N thing and I tried briding the connection with solder to fix it. Well, it started to smoke and then my screen didn't power on. So, I tried power on every connection to turn it on and one worked. So, it turns on and no composite.

I will probably try RBG becasue I am quessing composite is totally gone

 

[designer noob]

Yeah, I can't get composite to work any more not worth it any way. I think I am the most lucky person ever.

Tomorrow when I wake up I will desolder the three a/v wires and solder them to RBG easy fix. It will take me like 5 minutes. If this doesn't work then...


I will be using this diagram for the N64

http://forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?t=11881

Question: I will have a RBG switch, but do I need another jack for the C-sync becasue I never see c-sync while in the RBG cord I have. Its just green red and blue.

 

[XCVG]

You need C-sync. Sometimes you can just use composite video, but some screens don't like it.

 

[designer noob]

Just curious , but from the name c-sync it sounds like it syncs everything together. Can I just solder one c-sync wire to ever jack RBG?

Where do I hook up C-sync to the TV? Is it like composite so, I can just hook it up to any yellow in?

So, if I did this I would hook up red green blue to the front of the t.v. and then C-sync to any composite in?