Nintendo64/Gameboy advance

D

designer noob

Well-Known Member
Most of the Nintendo 64 is wired up and I just need help on wiring the Gameboy Advance up to everything. I have looked on all the other websites that are similar to this and no one talks about gameboy advances or I would find my information from there.

I was looking on google and most websites say the GBA advance takes 3.0 volts to work, correct me if I am wrong. I am wondering what is the range of voltage it can take? If I can regulate the battery voltage from 8.4 volts to 3.145volts would that be fine?

Second, al the buttons have to be shared between the two systems. I was wondering since tack switches have four pins can't use two for each system? One ground and one wire leading to the board?
 
You would need like a 8p1t or something like and then hook all the wires to it?

Just to see if this would work, but you would have two wires leading out of each button. Then, you would connect one wire to a pole. Making sure that the Gameboy advance wires are on one side and the N64 wires are on another. So, when you throw the switch it will only be touching the N64 controller wires or the GBA wires.
 
Why double throw? That means there is on/off/on. I would just want one throw so, its on/on. Then, when I switch it only one thing is turned on. I would never use the middle there is no point having both controllers being off.

Also, I am pretty there are guides to a 12 pole single throw switch on forums.benheck.com.

Second, if you spend a lot of time on here where are all the posts? Did they get cleaned up?
 
I dont think the fuse is rated 7.5V. Their usualy rated for higher than normal use. It might be somthing like a 12V fuse. Almost any voltage over 7 will be fine because the volts can be higher. Its the amps that have to match.
 
If I need a RGB output there is a mod for that right the LCD mod I believe?
If I do need that, then the AV outputjack I added is not going to work right? Because know I need to hook it up to red out, blue out, green out on the screen.
 
I have the converter, but I don't know how to put that on the screen and gameboy advance. If you have to solder it, then that won't be a problem.
 
lol, I don't even know how to hook it up to the screen and gameboy advance. Where do I place the ribon cable? Also, it has like 2 pieces one with the ribon cable and another that goes under the game boy advance.
I haven't really even looked at it. I don't know much about electrical stuff, so I won't try to put it together my self. I don't have the money to mess up (Well, I don't want to waste it atleast).

When I said solder won't be a problem, I meant that I have a dad who is a electrictian and can solder perfectly.

Update: Well, I took a look at it and it seems to hook up to the Gameboy advance quite easily. The other side of the ribbon cable seems to bit nicely into another slot. All, you really have to do now is solder wires to the input? I am probably wrong here.

Also, I will be going to radishack to get the 6 2p2t switches/fuses and I was wondering when you are hooking up the nintendo 64 there are wires that spread into like four other wires. When I shack the portable there is no way that those wires will be held by other solder. So, is there anything I can buy to keep the wires from breaking away from their connection. I know about shrinking tube, but thats only for one way wires.

I was looking around for where the fuse is located and it says in Bens book if you blow a fuse to cover PS1 with solder. I looked a PS1 and there is no fuse located there. I am wondering where the real fuse is located so, I can replace it with the new one I am getting.

I know there are a lot of questions, but I hope you can answer them. Thanks.
 
designer noob said:
Also, I will be going to radishack to get the 6 2p2t switches/fuses and I was wondering when you are hooking up the nintendo 64 there are wires that spread into like four other wires. When I shack the portable there is no way that those wires will be held by other solder. So, is there anything I can buy to keep the wires from breaking away from their connection.
Click to expand...

I would suggest using 3 N64 power switches, which are 4P-DT each, but it will require scraping and fluxing the cut-off pin. If not this, just use a circuit. They work wonders, and only need one switch. :D
 
I know nothing about circuits so, I will just put 6p2t switches together to make one switch. It will be a lot easier and less chance to fry the board.
 
You can't fry the board with a circuit, unless you use the circuit to cut the board up. :rolleyes:

I'll post you a link as soon as I can find one.
 
I was looking around for where the fuse is located and it says in Bens book if you blow a fuse to cover PS1 with solder. I looked a PS1 and there is no fuse located there. I am wondering where the real fuse is located so, I can replace it with the new one I am getting.
 
so, what your telling me I should just bypass PS1 or hook up a wire from pin 12(the 5v line) to the regulator? Since, you have tried changing the fuse and it didn't work.
 
Well, I only have couple more questions until I feel I can finish the portable.

First, on the LCD mod you take the red, green, and blue from the Nintendo 64 chip and hook it up to certain pins on the Nintendo 64. Then, do you take socket 1 pins 4,5, and 6 from the screen to the Nintendo 64 where you hooked up blue, green, and red wires from the chip?

That how you do it for the Nintendo 64 how are you suppose to do it for the GBA?


Second, I believe this makes your screen very dark so, you are suppose to add 4 LCD lights next to the screen correct?

Finally, hook up the ribon cable to the screen and GBA.
 
kk, I look up c-sync, but I thought you said GBA gives off very bad composite video. So, I was quesssing I would use RGB.

Update: If you need C-sync won't I need it for the output jack I'm creating? That means four wires Red, Green, Blue, and C-sync. If this is true why does xbox360 which uses this system only have three wires no c-sync. Then it would also need RBG right audio and left audio. A total of six wires.

You said,"make sure you have a stable picture with no artifacts before doing RGB." Does that mean you want me to hook it up normaly? Then, desolder it and hook it up with RGB?
 
designer noob said:
kk, I look up c-sync, but I thought you said GBA gives off very bad composite video. So, I was quesssing I would use RGB.

Update: If you need C-sync won't I need it for the output jack I'm creating? That means four wires Red, Green, Blue, and C-sync. If this is true why does xbox360 which uses this system only have three wires no c-sync. Then it would also need RBG right audio and left audio. A total of six wires.

You said,"make sure you have a stable picture with no artifacts before doing RGB." Does that mean you want me to hook it up normaly? Then, desolder it and hook it up with RGB?
Click to expand...

wikipedia said:
RGB requires an additional signal for synchronizing the video display. Several methods are used:
1 composite sync, where the horizontal and vertical signals are mixed together on a separate wire (the S in RGBS)
2 separate sync, where the horizontal and vertical are each on their own wire (the H and V in RGBHV)
3 sync on green, where a composite sync signal is overlaid on the green wire (SoG or RGsB).
Click to expand...
The Xbox 360 uses the SoG meathod. Also, you will need 6 wires. Attaching C-Sync doesn't mean you will have composite video, it just means that you want your console to work right. :p
 
There is no RGB right or left audio out so, I am quessing there will only be four wholes c-sync out, red out, blue out, and green out. But, where does the c-sync pluged into the t.v.? I know the red, blue, and green still go in the yellow, white, and red plug in located infront of the t.v.?
 
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