N6t4p WIP

if you did the ram swap, wouldn't it be possible to wire the connections on the slot together. I thought that that was all a jumpers pack did anyway, make connections.
sounds like a new topic.
 
Update teim!
I finished cutting my board (almost) and I finished doing an expansion pak relocation.
I turn the board on and it gets warm and all, but no video. :( help?
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The screen says AV1 No Signal.
 
I think marshallh once said if your RCP warms up within 12 seconds after boot and there is no cartridge, the board is toast.

SS
 
I had a cartridge in the whole time, just not in the first picture.
And i have heat sinks on there now, but I don't think the problem is heat.
 
Check EVERY pin on the expansion pack with a continuity meter. You should not have continuity between any pins next to each other except the end ones.
 
Argelfraster said:
I don't have a continuity meter, how else can I check/where can i get one?

Radio Shack, Wal-Mart , Harbor Freight.

About $10. It's just a multimeter. Make sure it has a "beeping" continuity setting. It is a must :)
 
they have them at ratshack. mine is a fine multimeter. it was like 20$. (but i love my fluke)
 
Just use a multimeter on the lowest setting. I don't like continuity tester because on some circuits almost everything on the board is connected in some way. I just put the probes together on the multimeter and get like .8 ohms, so I test the pins to see if there's a short, if I get .8 ohms then it's shorted, if it's like 51 ohms, then it isn't shorted. (there are some pins on the expansion pak that are in parallel and if you test them they'll say 51 ohms, which will set off a lot of continuity testers)
 
I don't get so much how to use multimeters for checking pinouts and such, I mean aren't they only used to check if there is power running through a particular component?
Also, I re-wired a few of the expansion pak wires, just to make sure they weren't touching, and now when I turn the unit on the screen flickers and says No Signal. (it didn't flicker before)
 
Argelfraster said:
I don't get so much how to use multimeters for checking pinouts and such, I mean aren't they only used to check if there is power running through a particular component?
Also, I re-wired a few of the expansion pak wires, just to make sure they weren't touching, and now when I turn the unit on the screen flickers and says No Signal. (it didn't flicker before)

No on a continuity setting it is used to determine where a trace is connected. Haven't you ever wondered why we know where to hook up say composite to different points on the psone board? Continuity setting. Touch one probe to the yellow wire and then start touching other points on the board. When it beeps you found another trace that it goes to.

@bentomo In all my years of using meters I have never found one that is fooled by low ohms. You must have used a REALLY cheap Hong Kong meter built by Indonesian dirt farmers. :lol:
 
I went to my radioshack and they don't have one, but I did buy a new multimeter.
Where can I buy a good continuity tester online? (cheap of course)
 
Why pay for one lol?

Set your multimeter to ohms.

There, you have a continuity tester. Low ohms, like 1-10ish, continuity. Winrar.
 
hailrazer said:
Argelfraster said:
I don't get so much how to use multimeters for checking pinouts and such, I mean aren't they only used to check if there is power running through a particular component?
Also, I re-wired a few of the expansion pak wires, just to make sure they weren't touching, and now when I turn the unit on the screen flickers and says No Signal. (it didn't flicker before)

No on a continuity setting it is used to determine where a trace is connected. Haven't you ever wondered why we know where to hook up say composite to different points on the psone board? Continuity setting. Touch one probe to the yellow wire and then start touching other points on the board. When it beeps you found another trace that it goes to.

@bentomo In all my years of using meters I have never found one that is fooled by low ohms. You must have used a REALLY cheap Hong Kong meter built by Indonesian dirt farmers. :lol:
Well the one I have is only a $15 one from ebay, and I only use it to measure amps more then 200. I have a good multimeter that's $50 but it doesn't have many features. But it is quality and accurate, hence the price for low features. (no continuity testing and it doesn't go above 200mA, does everything else though)
 
now i feel weird about having a really nice multimeter. (fluke III pro) great going guys. alienating me. :gonk:
 
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