N6t4p WIP

Argelfraster said:
I went to my radioshack and they don't have one, but I did buy a new multimeter.
Where can I buy a good continuity tester online? (cheap of course)

The multimeter should have a continuity test function on it. It looks like a speaker symbol *))) sort of like that. Set it there and touch the probes and you should hear a beep. I couldn't find one at www.radioshack.com that didn't have this function.
 
snowpenguin said:
Why pay for one lol?

Set your multimeter to ohms.

There, you have a continuity tester. Low ohms, like 1-10ish, continuity. Winrar.

Newbs..

Why do something half-arse when you can do it right. :p
 
bentomo said:
That's not half done, it gets the whole job done.

So you're sitting there with an N64 board on your table. You're checking for shorts on a 50 pin solder job you did and a 32 pin solder job you did.

Is it easier to check those 82 pins, touching them with probes and then looking up and checking the meter to see what ohms it is while hoping you didn't slide the probe slightly off the solder joint and accidentally touch another point or the other probe.

Or is it easier to check those 82 pins while watching the probes to make sure they aren't touching anything else and listen for a beep?

Seriously, you guys fight things and argue for no reason. :p
 
I un-intentionally left my N64 on for about 30 minutes and it powered off and all the chips were cool when i checked on them again.
Fried?
 
hailrazer said:
bentomo said:
That's not half done, it gets the whole job done.

So you're sitting there with an N64 board on your table. You're checking for shorts on a 50 pin solder job you did and a 32 pin solder job you did.

Is it easier to check those 82 pins, touching them with probes and then looking up and checking the meter to see what ohms it is while hoping you didn't slide the probe slightly off the solder joint and accidentally touch another point or the other probe.

Or is it easier to check those 82 pins while watching the probes to make sure they aren't touching anything else and listen for a beep?

Seriously, you guys fight things and argue for no reason. :p

OR, you can do it RIGHT in the first place. No need to check then. If you can't see a short, and all your wires are going to the right place, then there is no reason to check. Also, hail, if you put the meter in your line of vision of the probes like I do when I'm checking gamecube voltages, then IMO it's much better than a beep. It's preference, there is no arguable reason why one is better overall than the other.

If you turned on your n64 and it's sleeping/dead/whatever, congrats! You fail!

Look, I've learned one truth about n64's in my 4 years of portablizing. It's that you can never let the n64 know it's not in its original case, and you can never let it fall asleep. If either of those happen once, then your n64 will have random problems later.

Go into a cart slot relocation slowly and take your time. Even in my speed run I tinned the n64's pins first and then soldered. It's that important.

SS
 
hailrazer said:
bentomo said:
That's not half done, it gets the whole job done.

So you're sitting there with an N64 board on your table. You're checking for shorts on a 50 pin solder job you did and a 32 pin solder job you did.

Is it easier to check those 82 pins, touching them with probes and then looking up and checking the meter to see what ohms it is while hoping you didn't slide the probe slightly off the solder joint and accidentally touch another point or the other probe.

Or is it easier to check those 82 pins while watching the probes to make sure they aren't touching anything else and listen for a beep?

Seriously, you guys fight things and argue for no reason. :p
I wasn't saying one is better then the other. I was just saying that you don't need an expensive continuity tester to get the job done well. I wasn't fighting. ::3:
 
I use the ohms function for continuity tests. Works quite well for me. No need to go out an buy a whole new device for just a lil beep. To each their own though.
 
We all love you hail! :awesome:


It just sounded like you said our method doesn't work but it works fine, all we're saying.
 
Argelfraster said:
I un-intentionally left my N64 on for about 30 minutes and it powered off and all the chips were cool when i checked on them again.
Fried?
daftmike's didn't fry for no reason :S
 
ShockSlayer said:
OR, you can do it RIGHT in the first place. No need to check then. If you can't see a short, and all your wires are going to the right place, then there is no reason to check. Also, hail, if you put the meter in your line of vision of the probes like I do when I'm checking gamecube voltages, then IMO it's much better than a beep. It's preference, there is no arguable reason why one is better overall than the other.

If you turned on your n64 and it's sleeping/dead/whatever, congrats! You fail!

Look, I've learned one truth about n64's in my 4 years of portablizing. It's that you can never let the n64 know it's not in its original case, and you can never let it fall asleep. If either of those happen once, then your n64 will have random problems later.

Go into a cart slot relocation slowly and take your time. Even in my speed run I tinned the n64's pins first and then soldered. It's that important.

SS

Seriously I wasn't going to say anything. But this "I am the greatest N64 portablizer in the world" crap has to stop.

Here's in reply to your "do it right the first place" nonsense.

ShockSlayer said:
This is where I'll be posting my progress on my X64 lite, when/if I get around to it. Currently my board is dead, failed jumper pack relocation.
SS

ShockSlayer said:
UPDATE: N64 is sleeping, I accidentally touched some voltage line to VDC-NUS pin 12(GND) and now it won't turn on(or load games, or whatever). Screen almost died too, in fact, it did die, and then I randomly drug a wire across the LCD plug's contacts and it sprung back to life! (I don't know how) I'm so glad eurddrue is sending me an n64.
SS

And there are a bunch more. Seriously how many N64's have you fried? How many Doa N64 portables have you built?

So please enough with the holier than thou attitude.
 
why have lots of people been so cranky lately? SS and hailraizer's earlier posts were ultra-chill...
 
hailrazer said:
Man try to give people advice and this is what I get. Jeez, I think I'm just about done here.

nobody has attacked you sir. We are all simply expressing are opinions. You are a cool modder, but maybe you are taking things too personally. In all honesty this isn't a big deal in the grand scheme of things ;)
 
And we're done, yeah? A few things learned:
1. People make mistakes on everything
2. There's more than one way to do things - some people do some things better than others
3. Some people prefer some ways over others - let's not force any ways upon anyone else (not pointing fingers)

Thanks?
 
Uh, where the Heck is my middle paragraph? It said something along the lines of several things he could try.

If you read my post the way it is, it definitely looks like I'm being a dick. That was not my intention. Posting about 4 posts on three different forums all at once can get a little frustrating, maybe I should slow down. :sweat:

(22:49:57) ToastBucket: We are the only people who can get really angry with each other about how to read a multimeter

Anyways, hail, nobody's perfect. :)
hailrazer said:
I went through three on my Darth64.

I think the reasons were all related to bad 3.3v wiring.

And that darn expansion pack re-location. Aaarrgghhh

I don't want to be the reason you leave. Please forgive my post

Argelfraster, there are lots of things to try. Check all your connections and clean off the board. Test ithe exp pack with a multimeter, any multimeter will do, beeps if you wanna listen, gauge if you wanna look, or both if you got da cash. :p Don't give up. Just because it's sleeping doens't mean it's dead.

SS
 
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