Sprocket64 Worklog. FINISHED. See page 27.
- Thread starter Mario
- Start date
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
Thanks for all the awesome comments guys!
I love comments so much.
I did not buy the screen. It's an in-car DVD player extension screen. It just had a custom input for composite that hooked up to a portable DVD player of the same brand. Current draw, even when not LED modded, is about 450mA. It originally took only composite, but after looking over some datasheets, I got s-video hooked up to it.
XCVG and SS: I use screwposts all the time for serviceability.
To position them correctly, I first screw them to the piece I want them to hold (in this case the joystick board) and position the whole thing where I want it. Then, I add hot glue to the posts. This way, the posts are perfectly aligned with the holes on the board. If something breaks, I can simply unscrew the appropriate board and fix it.
On my Retro64, I used screwposts for the C and A/B buttons. Twice, one of the C buttons fell out. I simply opened the portable up and fixed it. If the board was hot glued in, it would have been 10x more difficult and messy.
I always use screwposts for the controls.
Thanks for all the awesome comments guys!
I love comments so much.I did not buy the screen. It's an in-car DVD player extension screen. It just had a custom input for composite that hooked up to a portable DVD player of the same brand. Current draw, even when not LED modded, is about 450mA. It originally took only composite, but after looking over some datasheets, I got s-video hooked up to it.
XCVG and SS: I use screwposts all the time for serviceability.
To position them correctly, I first screw them to the piece I want them to hold (in this case the joystick board) and position the whole thing where I want it. Then, I add hot glue to the posts. This way, the posts are perfectly aligned with the holes on the board. If something breaks, I can simply unscrew the appropriate board and fix it.
On my Retro64, I used screwposts for the C and A/B buttons. Twice, one of the C buttons fell out. I simply opened the portable up and fixed it. If the board was hot glued in, it would have been 10x more difficult and messy.
I always use screwposts for the controls.
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
Also, those batteries. I have a good pack and a pack that has no mobo, because the mobo fried. think I could wire the two extra cells in parallel and get it work and charge?
SS
Also, those batteries. I have a good pack and a pack that has no mobo, because the mobo fried. think I could wire the two extra cells in parallel and get it work and charge?
SS
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
What is the make/ model of the screen, though?
If I find one, I will make an exact clone of this for comicon.
What is the make/ model of the screen, though?
If I find one, I will make an exact clone of this for comicon.
Nintendott
Nintendo for EVAR!
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
When this portable is done, it's going to be my favorite n64p, and thats awesome!
When this portable is done, it's going to be my favorite n64p, and thats awesome!
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
T-Berg: Yes it is.
B_M: I dunno, I threw out the case a long time ago.
It is 7 inches diagonal, though. Most DVD player screens are that size.
Nintendott, thanks!
Update tiem!
The final look of the front of the case, unless something really bad happens:
The d-pad/start button board is also attached to the joystick board for stability.
Insides:
Back (never mind the scratches, it will be painted again) Also need to put the L button in. Yes, that is a PSP shoulder button. The yellow jack is the LOB64 port, and the Z button will go in the hole on the right.
Inside, showing how the button is mounted
T-Berg: Yes it is.
B_M: I dunno, I threw out the case a long time ago.
It is 7 inches diagonal, though. Most DVD player screens are that size.Nintendott, thanks!
Update tiem!
The final look of the front of the case, unless something really bad happens:
The d-pad/start button board is also attached to the joystick board for stability.
Insides:
Back (never mind the scratches, it will be painted again) Also need to put the L button in. Yes, that is a PSP shoulder button. The yellow jack is the LOB64 port, and the Z button will go in the hole on the right.
Inside, showing how the button is mounted
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
You have no idea how awesome those guts shots are to me.
SS
You have no idea how awesome those guts shots are to me.
SS
Joeyjoe9876
Frequent Poster
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
mario this portable is gonna suck big hairy monkey balls....
you know why
mario this portable is gonna suck big hairy monkey balls....
you know why
Joeyjoe9876
Frequent Poster
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
no. you had to be in chat to know.
no. you had to be in chat to know.
Nintendott
Nintendo for EVAR!
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
You have done a awesome gut job! The insides are so clean and beautiful and I lovez it!
Massage for all portabilisers : Show pictures of the insides. It's a great inspiration for other people
You have done a awesome gut job! The insides are so clean and beautiful and I lovez it!
Massage for all portabilisers : Show pictures of the insides. It's a great inspiration for other people
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
Sweet, you can start with my ass.
SS
Nintendott said:
Sweet, you can start with my ass.
SS
Nintendott
Nintendo for EVAR!
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Now with 157% less abandonment!
Got a scanner?
ShockSlayer said:
Got a scanner?
