Official Wiikey Fusion to GC MOD troubleshooting thread!

shambles1980 said:

I can't recall if it made a difference, but do you have a SD card inserted?

Also do you have pin 23 of the wiikey connected to pin 12 of the gamecube? This is the lid open/close detection, the guide you follow may of suggested a switch for multidisc games. If you have a switch make sure that switch is depressed (closed). This is different than the NC switch you mentioned which is the wii disc eject/sense.
 
no i have it going from pin 23 on the game cube. to a switch. and then to pin 23 on the wiikey fusion.
i have nothing connected to pin 12 on the break out board or the game cube..
The wiikey is grounded to the mother board board.

I never saw a mention of pin 12 being used for anything.. (im assuming it is a ground pin)

Should i connect from 23 on the game cube to Lid switch then to ground then?

i fugred there could have been a bridge some where i couldnt see. so i have now desolderd the 16 connections that were all on the same side. and removed all trace of solder from that side ready to start again.

so if there is any issues with my little wiering plan now would be a great time to mention it.

I do plan on playing Multi disk games.
i was going to have the game cube original lid switch be the switch, so i eject change the sd then close the lid..


-=edit=-

ok i re solderd my wires.
GC al;ways boots now , never get a red light/ and blue light comes on "flashing"
i dont get it booting to swiss.
and if i go to the load game screen it says "reading disk" (kind of flickers to insert a disk, but its so fast if you didnt know what it was trying to say you could not read it...) there surley has to be something wrong with my wiering (wrong pin connected to the wrong pin) I know i have solderd it up exactly like in my diagram. and i have also tried it with pin 23>switch>ground..

So could some one please check my diagram and tell me where i fubar'd

to save any one who is actually willing to look the trouble of finding the post and the image in questioned. here is a link to it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/52n2.jpg/
 
pretty sure i spoted my wiring mistake..
i counted 4 5v points when there are actually 5..
so i had to move 22 and 23 1 point right...

so its acting much better now.
but i keep getting "disk cannot be read" if i have the sd card in the drive on boot.
i have it formatted with wbfs 4.0 but its on swiss so it prefers fat 32.
However even fat32 formatted gives me the same error..

Almost there i think.

edit..

ok so i decided to change my extra fat wire for thinner stuff. Also i cut every single wire to the same exact length.

plugged it in, and it works flawlessly.

Basically if your doing what i did and use a old dvd connector and use my pics as a reference..
22 and 23 need to move 1 pin right.
and you need to use really thin wire "the stuff i usually save for trace repair" not be cheap and use the cheaper fatter stuff.
also cut all the wires to the exact same length.

i can make a better diagram with paint as to how the pin outs go if any 1 would prefer, but im sure you guys can make your own if you wanted too.

here is what i ended up with

vid:
http://youtu.be/3kwB4cy4JMM

this is the new thinner wire install.
Most wires go round the back some stay at the front. All are the same length.
Most go around the back to keep the least amount of wires crossing each other

I used the fat wire for the lid button. (latency didnt really matter for that.)
I used an old 40pin ata/ide stranded wire for 3.3v 1.9v and all ground points.
for Ground I used the outer grounding plane that runs arround the entire motherboard.
I took 3.3 and 1.9 from the solder points where the motherboard connects to the regulator board, ( i was using 3.3 from the bottom of the board, but decided to keep all the wiers on the top.











Here is the old fat wire install. its not much fatter really so it goes to show what a big difference wire thickness makes.

and again this is the diagram i made..
the vertical lines represent the legs on the dvd connector. the circles represent solder points on the ffc breakout board..
Please remember that if you want to use this diagram to make your own that i failed to count to 5 in my original draft of this. so pins 22 and 23 on the dvd connector (top vertical lines) need to move 1 leg to the right ---->
This is for THE MALE PLUGIN connector. not directly soldering to the female connector on the board.. (please check your setup before you decide to use my diagram)



ok decided to add the corrected picture here because i could not find one with the pin outs like this on the interweb when i was making it.this is viewing the dvd connector from the top not the back, your ffc breakout board may have a diferent pin config..


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
well i kind of traded for it.
I reflowed all the connections. And re bridged the point "you can see its missing a trace" but atleast it was at the end so they were able to bend the pin to a diferent trace.

it has the continuity, and like i said i re flowed every single one of those legs individually.
It should be fine to be honest.

i know its not pretty but the guy did tell me it wasnt before we made the trade..
Honestly it looks worse than it is, and i dont see it failing.

I was thinking of desoldering the ffc connector and fliping it over so it faced the other way as it would make the mounting for the wiikey easier.

but i have trimmed down my 32pin ffc so its next to nothing to make up for the positioning.
And then i did the same for the 12pin jtag cabe. so that is exactly as long as it has to be to connect to reach the dvd bay where the sd card goes..

I may Tap some extra solder to the ffc connectors legs at some point.
( want to re do my wires from the dvd connector side any way. not happy with how much copper is exposed on some of them)

if i get round to doing that i will add some more solder to the ffc connectors legs.

as you can see for now its all just taped up.
(tape on the break out board. super glued the dvd connector to the tape. wires then more tape.)

When i resolder it all and am happy with it il use tiny dabs of epoxy to hold the wires to the board so they arent crossing "atleast as many as i can make not cross"
test it. then add a thin layer of epoxy to it.

run some 5v lines from the dvd connector. make some pads for regulators and then epoxy all the in place too.

should be a 100% solderless adapter then.

Also..
why arent my images being resized to a reasonable size here?
They are full sized images here instead of being scaled with a "click to view full image" option.

edit

fixed the images now, needed diferent bb codes for this forum.
 
I know this is a noob question for most, but for the max cut DD points does it matter if I solder to the top or bottom? From what it looks like it doesn't but I thought I'd ask before doing anything stupid to one of my GCs. :confused:
 
blumbous said:
I know this is a noob question for most, but for the max cut DD points does it matter if I solder to the top or bottom? From what it looks like it doesn't but I thought I'd ask before doing anything stupid to one of my GCs. :confused:

learn where you are cutting and why you are cutting before you cut
study the guide a bit more...

helpful hint, if you have to ask about soldering on top or bottom, you might not be ready because that is a "basic electronics" question...without these basic fundamentals you may find yourself in trouble real fast
 
I flashed my wkf with swiss but now it gets stuck after trying to boot swiss. I have an sd card in. It just goes black and stops.

ig451sl.jpg

A55siW9.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure it freezes because there is a short or mis-wiring somewhere on your board. I had a Wiikey wired once that would let you navigate the whole swiss menu, but when you tried to boot something, it would freeze at 97% every time. I think it was a short in my SD gecko slot B wiring, so watch out for things like that. Did you change anything on your board between the time it was working and the time it started freezing?
 
Nothing. But ill check wires its not impossible

--edit--

I found a short between 24 and 28 but i cant see where its shorted.

--edit--

Fixed the short but no change. It still freezes.
 
I think the only advice I can give is for you to redo your whole setup. It may be that there's still something wrong you can't really see and it didn't come into effect until the Wiikey tried to access the Swiss firmware flashed to it when booting. Whatever your method of wiring, there could be something wrong with anything. Some FFC breakout boards like the one from Newhaven can be defective, or your wiring job on the FFC itself (if you did that) could have an unrecognizable fault. But I doubt that there is anything wrong with your motherboard or your Wiikey, unless something honestly went wrong during the flash, so it must be what's in between.

You should try inserting an SD card with the Wiikey 1.2 recovery files before you do anything, because that will show up and boot fine if it's a bad flash.
 
Can you connect the dd to the wkf? Cause you can load Swiss on a dvd to reflash. If not let me know I might be able to fix it here. I have a dd with a xenogc fitted. So shouldn't take much to get it working.
 
Are you putting the 1.2 recovery files on an SD card as raw files with no file format? It's a confusing process, and if you don't inject them properly, it won't show up.

@DuHasst0 - If you mean to connect the DD to the DVD side of the Wiikey, I thought that was confirmed not working. Does it actually work?
 
@Blargaman91: I think they are going on as iso's. How do i put them on? Is there a guide somewhere I've looked but cant find one. It took forever for me to find the 1.2 recovery files.

@DuHasst0: No I don't have a way to hook it to dvd drive, but is there a guide or something explaining the way you are talking about?
 
@BOTH Maybe but you should be able to boot swiss from dvd if you have a xenogc. Remove dvd put fat32 sd into wkf. From there boot swiss flasher from sd gecko and reflash.
 
Blargaman91 said:
I know from experience that Wiikeys can become corrupt so easily, as mentioned in that topic.

become easily corrupt?? ...i doubt that...

ive never seen a WKF become corrupt...and ive put mine thru Heck and back more than most....
can you provide some examples of corruption?
 
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