Official Wiikey Fusion to GC MOD troubleshooting thread!

Well i don't know, i'm no genius, i pretty much stick to ashen's guide, he told us to use normaly closed or normaly open (don't remember ) switches, i once asked if we could use normal tacts and apparently no. You should try, they're not that expensive.
 
I'm assuming that's a normally-open tact switch (like most are). So, it won't be any good in the long term (unless you plan on sitting on it the whole time you play a game :lol: ). But, the switch aside, you mentioned previously that you tried to "short-circuit" pin 29. If by that you mean it was connected directly to ground - you should not be getting the error message. I have gotten that message before too, and it was always because of a simple wiring error.
 
harvey263 said:
I'm assuming that's a normally-open tact switch (like most are). So, it won't be any good in the long term (unless you plan on sitting on it the whole time you play a game :lol: ).
That's the new difficulty level ;) I will buy one normally-closed switch as soon as I see the Tux penguin for the first time...

harvey263 said:
But, the switch aside, you mentioned previously that you tried to "short-circuit" pin 29. If by that you mean it was connected directly to ground - you should not be getting the error message. I have gotten that message before too, and it was always because of a simple wiring error.
Yes, I "short-circuited" Wiikey Fusion PIN 29 and a GND wire from GC Mobo... still got the error message. :(

Any further ideas?
 
I checked out your picture. The extra loose wires and terminal block stuff confuses me but... You drew a diagram for wiring to the bottom of the motherboard, yet you are connecting to the top. I can't follow your leads well enough to tell, but is it possible it's just soldered up completely backwards?
 
harvey263 said:
I checked out your picture. The extra loose wires and terminal block stuff confuses me but... You drew a diagram for wiring to the bottom of the motherboard, yet you are connecting to the top. I can't follow your leads well enough to tell, but is it possible it's just soldered up completely backwards?
Well, that would be pretty nasty... I took another picture to make sure:

(Click to enlarge)

And my wiring:

(Click to enlarge)

With the PIN numbers on the picture (I didn't write all - should I make another picture with all numbers?) it should be possible to determine, if I did something wrong. I followed this pinout from Ashen.

I get continuity from the Wiikey Fusion PINs to the matching PIN on the GC motherboard. And I also made sure, that there is no connection between the PINs on the motherboard (except for the GND PINs).

Should be alright then, shouldn't it?
 
Okay, it just seemed a little awkward referencing bottom mobo diagram/soldering to top. As long as you kept it straight in your head, whatever works.
Should be alright then, shouldn't it?
Haha, SHOULD be, but obviously there's something wrong. If I were in your shoes, at this point, it's time to start fresh. It looks like you soldered to the disc drive adapter? Shouldn't be anything wrong with that, but might be easier to remove it, then reference this diagram:
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu4/Ashen12345/DDConnectorWiikey-WODEPinsMedCutMBTop.jpg
Or, just solder to the bottom side. In my (amateur) experience, the GC can be fickle with wiring, even when everything is seemingly correct. Starting over might seem a burden after all your hard work, but troubleshooting at this point is starting to be even more time-consuming. IMO.
 
I think you might be right. It's just that I'm a little scared of soldering directly to the motherboard - it appeared difficult enough to solder to the adapter... Well, it seems like there's no choice left, so here we go.

Regardless, I've noticed, that the error message won't appear, if the GC has been resetted by the reset switch for two times. This way, I can stay in the game menu for as long as I want to - no error message. But as soon as I use my "eject switch" to start the Wiikey Fusion, the message pops up. Is that of any help? :confused: (I won't have time for soldering for some weeks, please don't think, I would ignore your advice to start fresh)
 
Hey it's your cube man, you gotta do what you want with it. I'm just weighing-in because I enjoy the topic. I think if you were able to solder directly to the ribbon cable, you should be capable of soldering to the mobo perfectly well. How are your de-soldering skills? If you can remove the disc drive adapter cleanly you'll have a nice set of holes for pushing the wires through. Or, you could try just soldering to the existing pads on the bottom of the motherboard. I think the "reset switch for two times" thing is just a weird fluke. At least I don't know how it's an indication of something positive... Anyways, good luck dude.
 
harvey263 said:
Anyways, good luck dude.
Thanks, I really appreciate everything you guys reply... ;)

high gauge 24-28awg solid insulated wire type
Until now, I used old IDE cable for wiring. Since Twisted pair cable (CAT6 or something) is AWG27 to AWG22, would that be suitable, too? Which diameter is better - large AWG24 or small AWG28?
 
j4y- I ran into something tonight made me think of your pictures...
I opened my cube to work on some controller stuff, decided to hook up the eject switch [29/GND] with quick disconnects for easier access. I got good continuity, but it wasn't working right afterwards. Seems like I had to 'pump' or just hold down the switch for a awhile to get gc-linux to load. I went back to plain soldered wires and everything was fine...
My point: even with apparent continuity; maybe your terminal blocks are getting in the way. Too much latency despite what the meter says. Just an idea.
 
Hello everybody,

I have a little question. Sorry for my english, I'm french.
Is it really necessary to put a switch on pin 29 Wii?
Without switch the wiikey would it not constantly lit?
 
back at it again. So my wiikey worked fine for a while. It was booting a bit funky , but I knew I needed the 1.5 update.

So I downloaded the 1.5 update (using an old wiikey serial pin, does that matter?) and then successfully updated my wiikey fusion.

Then I added games to the SD card. Now the activation switch doesn't work, I see the flashing, but the switch and pin 29 do NOTHING. Tried adding more ground, tried SS's 1.9v trick. No luck.

My pin 29 wire is a thin kynar wire and is 4.5" long. Does that matter? Why would it stop working after the update?

NOTE: I DO NOT get any errors. It just keeps flickering, same as the gamecube menu flicker between reading disc. Waiting for an activation that I can't seem to do.
 
okay, I got a steady blue light at one point. Now nothings happening. But I feel like I'm getting close. Using a thicker wire got me that blue light once. I'll keep toying with it.
 
Hello thread,
I've spent the last day trying to get my wiikey fusion to work on my GC. The model is a (EUR) DOL - 001, so the compatability is all fine, I'm sure. The issue is that I can't get the linux game to show up in the when I go up in the main menu, it is stuck perpetually at 'reading disk' and 'Please insert a NINTENDO Gamecube game', and just flickers between the two. When I turn the GC on the blue light on the wiikey flickers once with a pale blue light, but it won't always come back on when I'm in the disk section.

I've checked, re-checked and triple checked the connections with a multimeter, and they all appear to work, and I couldn't find any short circuits. The wires were kept very short, so latency wouldn't be an issue. I've read through the forum and I tried relocating the ground to the edge of the GC board, as Ashen suggested for a similar issue. The blue light used to come on all the time when it was 'reading disk' but that stopped when the ground got relocated.

The wiikey is running firmware 1.5, and is comfirmed working with the card reader through my wii. I'm lost as to what the issue might be, but I feel the button looks very suspect, but I'd love your opinions. I'm attaching pictures below to help out.

[The floating jumble of wires is the grounded wires all being connected together and to the board in a single wire, I hope this is right. I tried one wire per hole, but that didn't work, so I tried this when Ashen mentioned bridging the grounds, or somthing of the sort. The connections there are all True]

 
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