Gamerlolwind
Well-Known Member
lol, nice are man 
so it's completed?
so it's completed?
Monstercrunch GCp Worklog
- Thread starter Monstercrunch
- Start date
RaAaK the FoX
Member
meme probleme pour le son , impossible de le fixer en rev C je crois (mais possible en rev A et B essaye si c'est pas le cas) ,ps : j'ai mal calculé mon coup pour ma case sigh Le R ne rentre pas arggggg alors que j'avais enfin réussi à connecter Z sigh
Monstercrunch
Active Member
@Raak: désolé pour toi ^^' si ça peut te consoller, j'ai foiré le thermoformage de la partie arrière... donc ça repousse à dans 3 semaine la suite =/
@Gamerlol: not exactly: I have to make the back of the case (and I think it will be like 5-8 hours of work... )
@Gamerlol: not exactly: I have to make the back of the case (and I think it will be like 5-8 hours of work... )
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Yup !
I need your help !
I tried to make the back of the case with 2mm plexiglass but it was too thin, and I don't want to work with this plastic anymore (it break very easily).
Now I want to buy styrene, but I don't know if I have to buy 2 or 3mm ? (my case is quite big, I don't want it to bend in the middle, but I don't know if 2mm styren sheet is enough...)
So, 3 or 2mm ?
Thanks
I need your help !
I tried to make the back of the case with 2mm plexiglass but it was too thin, and I don't want to work with this plastic anymore (it break very easily).
Now I want to buy styrene, but I don't know if I have to buy 2 or 3mm ? (my case is quite big, I don't want it to bend in the middle, but I don't know if 2mm styren sheet is enough...)
So, 3 or 2mm ?
Thanks
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Hi everyones, I've started the back of the case 
But now I don't know if I keep the cd driver (that would make it much bigger) or if I buy a wiikey. The fact is that I've already spent a lot of money on that project =/
I would like to sell it when it's finished. Could you please say me what are usually the prices for:
-a GCp without batteries and the CD driver ?
-a GCP with batteries and a wiikey ?
(according to the "quality" of my work).
Moreover, I don't know if my gc is compatible with wiikey, where can I find the IPL version ?
Thanks for your help.
But now I don't know if I keep the cd driver (that would make it much bigger) or if I buy a wiikey. The fact is that I've already spent a lot of money on that project =/
I would like to sell it when it's finished. Could you please say me what are usually the prices for:
-a GCp without batteries and the CD driver ?
-a GCP with batteries and a wiikey ?
(according to the "quality" of my work).
Moreover, I don't know if my gc is compatible with wiikey, where can I find the IPL version ?
Thanks for your help.
public-pervert
Well-Known Member
Look at this thread at Mega-Sticky: viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10226
You can discover what IPL you have by looking at the start menu.
You can discover what IPL you have by looking at the start menu.
Monstercrunch
Active Member
On your link it is said that all Pal consoles are IPL 1.1+ and on Ashen's guide that Pal 1.0 are compatible, is it ok ?
Monstercrunch
Active Member
up
public-pervert
Well-Known Member
All Pal cubes are compatible, even the v1.0 ones. NTSC IPL v1.0 won't work with wiikey fusion, unless you flash Swiss to that. Cubes NTSC v1.1 will work normally.
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Ok thanks. But now I need to know the usual prices for the differents mods of GCp, because if I have to put more money in the project, I would like to be sure I'm able to sell it a quite good price... 
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Hi !
I get my WKF and my MEGADrive from Megalomaniac but I'm a little bit confused with how soldering it...
(from: http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewto ... 884#p16884)
-I've Swiss autoboot installed on my WKF, so I don't need to solder any switch right ?
-More over, I don't need the jumper for the lid and for the pin 31, right ?
-Finally, when I soldered the big hole, it made a bridge betwin the hole and the component beside it (in orange with the "??"). Is it ok or they shouldn't be linked together ?
Thanks for your help
I get my WKF and my MEGADrive from Megalomaniac but I'm a little bit confused with how soldering it...
(from: http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewto ... 884#p16884)
-I've Swiss autoboot installed on my WKF, so I don't need to solder any switch right ?
-More over, I don't need the jumper for the lid and for the pin 31, right ?
-Finally, when I soldered the big hole, it made a bridge betwin the hole and the component beside it (in orange with the "??"). Is it ok or they shouldn't be linked together ?
Thanks for your help
If you will have any multi disc isos on the sd card then you will need a switch for the lid pads. With wkf autoboot you won't need the pin 29 switch either. But as for the bridge I feel it would be best to wick that up with some solder wick. I am not in a position to open my cube up and test if it bridges already so that would be for mega or some one with a mega drive in front of them to say.
Monstercrunch
Active Member
DuHasst0, thanks for your response 
Any tact switch is ok for the lid ?
And I tested some connection with my multimeter and I saw that some of the pins are linked together, is it normal or my weld is bad ? I would be nice if someone has the plans of all the MEGADrives connections...
Any tact switch is ok for the lid ?
And I tested some connection with my multimeter and I saw that some of the pins are linked together, is it normal or my weld is bad ? I would be nice if someone has the plans of all the MEGADrives connections...
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
Post a nice close up pic of the board...
the ?? area is in contact with GND by design because that pin is the regulator GND...
You should always consider installing a lid switch and pin 29 switch even if using swiss autoboot...
the ?? area is in contact with GND by design because that pin is the regulator GND...
You should always consider installing a lid switch and pin 29 switch even if using swiss autoboot...
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Ok for ??, the contact is normal.
I can't take the close up tonigh. For the switch, is it normally closed ones ?
I didn't find how to wire up the pin 29 switch (not on the pic, and the forum research do not found anything interesting...).
I tested again the pins with my multimeter, and a lot of them a grounded (I mean there is no resistance between the ground and the pin), some of them aren't grounded at all and the others have about 85 ohm resistance with the ground. I'm not sure if everything is normal here...
Thanks
I can't take the close up tonigh. For the switch, is it normally closed ones ?
I didn't find how to wire up the pin 29 switch (not on the pic, and the forum research do not found anything interesting...).
I tested again the pins with my multimeter, and a lot of them a grounded (I mean there is no resistance between the ground and the pin), some of them aren't grounded at all and the others have about 85 ohm resistance with the ground. I'm not sure if everything is normal here...
Thanks
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
all the connections are shown in the pic you posted
pin 29 switch is shown in the the top left
lid switch is shown in the top right
these are normally closed switches....nothing has changed there...
as for your pin testing and GND contact....i would need to see a pic with added text to understand which pins you are referring to...but a lot of those pins will in fact be in contact with GND....that is the normal design of the DVD port as seen here documented by ashen
pin 29 switch is shown in the the top left
lid switch is shown in the top right
these are normally closed switches....nothing has changed there...
as for your pin testing and GND contact....i would need to see a pic with added text to understand which pins you are referring to...but a lot of those pins will in fact be in contact with GND....that is the normal design of the DVD port as seen here documented by ashen
Monstercrunch
Active Member
Ok thanks, everything looks good finally (with the multimeter I mean).
It seems that I don't have NC switch like on the picture, could I use thoses ones (for the lid and for the pin 29) ?:
I'll just switch it quickly left and right to "simulate" a tact switch.
Some other questions:
- rom format is .iso ?
- I'm going to buy a 16gb sd card, all I have to do is to:
1-format it in Fat32,
2-put the isos on it with windows,
3-put the card in the sd card reader,
4-switch on the gamecube,
and that's it ? Or are they others manipulations I missed ?
There is a lot of information on the forum but all it does is confusing me... And I really don't want to broke my WKF 
Thanks for your help.
It seems that I don't have NC switch like on the picture, could I use thoses ones (for the lid and for the pin 29) ?:
I'll just switch it quickly left and right to "simulate" a tact switch.
Some other questions:
- rom format is .iso ?
- I'm going to buy a 16gb sd card, all I have to do is to:
1-format it in Fat32,
2-put the isos on it with windows,
3-put the card in the sd card reader,
4-switch on the gamecube,
and that's it ? Or are they others manipulations I missed ?
There is a lot of information on the forum but all it does is confusing me...
And I really don't want to broke my WKF Thanks for your help.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
you should really consider a true momentary NC switch for pin 29....
if you should ever go back to official WKF firmware, the pin29 switch action is a "timed" function....
leave open to long can create errors....
i think 0.6 to 0.8 seconds is about the timing you need
lid switch you can get away with using that one you posted....but might lead to unnecessary accidental troubleshooting if it ends in the open position...still recommend using a true momentary NC switch as well for the lid..
if you should ever go back to official WKF firmware, the pin29 switch action is a "timed" function....
leave open to long can create errors....
i think 0.6 to 0.8 seconds is about the timing you need
lid switch you can get away with using that one you posted....but might lead to unnecessary accidental troubleshooting if it ends in the open position...still recommend using a true momentary NC switch as well for the lid..
