YAP64/2: XCVG's N64p Project
- Thread starter XCVG
- Start date
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
You make an account on ti.com and request one.XCVG said:eurddrue said:Skyone always says, "You should submit this to the showcase"
About the expansion port, tear that Sega off, and bend the pins from the cartslot over. They reach the little blobs of solder, making it thinnerthen, cover with electrical tape and flood with hotglue.
Hmm, that's an idea, but if I did that I would do it right and solder it. I don't want to go back and redo it, especially if it's covered in hotglue.
Basement_Modder said:Just get a sheet of 3mm plexiglass at the home depot. I am using it for sheet plastic on my portable. Just sand the shiny gloss layer off (I did it with 1000 grit, so it can't be that thick.) and paint it with Krylon Fusion. Looks just like regular ABS plastic, which is good for $2.49 a sheet.
I'll look but I'm probably going to use the N64 case, a la ShockSlayer.
Also, anyone have any tips on how to obtain free samples from TI?
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Yeah, do what eurddrue says (with the bending and the soldering). 2 years ago I dubbed this "de-locating" the cart slot.
Tin the contacts on the n64 mobo first.
SS
Tin the contacts on the n64 mobo first.
SS
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
Alright, de-located the cart slot using the Eurdrue-ShockSlayer method. I was expecting it to kill my N64 but it amazingly survived. It is now both thinner and stronger than before. Pictures of the old one (in progress):
And the new one, before I put electrical tape over it:
This is actually an earlier picture, but the game still looks exactly the same. The game I use is 1080 Snowboarding (sadly not 1080 high-def, not like my TV supports high-def anyway). Why? Because I don't really like it that much (I mean, I don't hate it, but I like it a lot less than Goldeneye or SM64), it's one of my most reliable carts (SM64 is one of my least reliable carts), and it didn't cost me that much (something like $5 or $10).
This is a blurricam shot of the controller port. It's hard to tell, but I cut the middle lead (data) in half and soldered wire to each end. This will later connect to a switch to switch between integrated controller and external controller. I need to buy some switches, because I want a bank of IDENTICAL switches on the portable somewhere.
And that's about all I can do, because I need a new desoldering pump. I also need to get some free samples from TI. I hope everyone enjoyed my first worklog entry WITH PICTURES.
And the new one, before I put electrical tape over it:
This is actually an earlier picture, but the game still looks exactly the same. The game I use is 1080 Snowboarding (sadly not 1080 high-def, not like my TV supports high-def anyway). Why? Because I don't really like it that much (I mean, I don't hate it, but I like it a lot less than Goldeneye or SM64), it's one of my most reliable carts (SM64 is one of my least reliable carts), and it didn't cost me that much (something like $5 or $10).
This is a blurricam shot of the controller port. It's hard to tell, but I cut the middle lead (data) in half and soldered wire to each end. This will later connect to a switch to switch between integrated controller and external controller. I need to buy some switches, because I want a bank of IDENTICAL switches on the portable somewhere.
And that's about all I can do, because I need a new desoldering pump. I also need to get some free samples from TI. I hope everyone enjoyed my first worklog entry WITH PICTURES.
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
The Eurddrue-ShockSlayer method? How about the ShockSlayer (eurddrue is just a noob) method? 
I think I told him that a while ago, or I'm under-estimating his skillz. 
SS
I think I told him that a while ago, or I'm under-estimating his skillz. SS
I had many ruined n64s and a plethora of cartslots to practice with, I figured it out myselfShockSlayer said:The Eurddrue-ShockSlayer method? How about the ShockSlayer (eurddrue is just a noob) method?
SS
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
Still gotta buy the desoldering pump. Was going to order some samples from TI but got the jitters at the last minute and backed out.
I need to get some switches too. The reason? I'm going to have a bank of switches along the side and I want the same kind of switch, not random junk switches that I found in my parts bin. I'm not sure how many I need. So far I've thought of: screen power, console power, FPS mode (don't ask), and int/ext P1. I haven't figured out how many switches it would take to switch video sources (I want a video in), would one N64 power switch do the trick? It doesn't have to be identical because this switch would probably be in a different place.
But I have a dilema on how to obtain my parts. Should I got to The Source (like RadioShack, but even worse) and pay the exhorbitant pricing, or order from RP Electronics and pay the shipping and insult fee (handling fee) to get vastly superior pricing? I have no idea, need some help here.
But enough of that, let me show off my screen:
Playing SMB3 on my Intec Wii screen, not VC either, this is the real McCoy. Some of you may know I A/V modded it earlier. I have to make some comments on my screen obviously. First, the picture quality is pretty good, although the colors are a bit off, though not by that much. Second, the audio... I'm not sure. It seemed crappy in SMB3 but when I played Halo it seemed fine. Maybe that fake Game Genie damaged my NES, I have to check. Last thing, this screen is only 16:9 but I don't really notice or care that much.
G'night everyone!
I need to get some switches too. The reason? I'm going to have a bank of switches along the side and I want the same kind of switch, not random junk switches that I found in my parts bin. I'm not sure how many I need. So far I've thought of: screen power, console power, FPS mode (don't ask), and int/ext P1. I haven't figured out how many switches it would take to switch video sources (I want a video in), would one N64 power switch do the trick? It doesn't have to be identical because this switch would probably be in a different place.
But I have a dilema on how to obtain my parts. Should I got to The Source (like RadioShack, but even worse) and pay the exhorbitant pricing, or order from RP Electronics and pay the shipping and insult fee (handling fee) to get vastly superior pricing? I have no idea, need some help here.
But enough of that, let me show off my screen:
Playing SMB3 on my Intec Wii screen, not VC either, this is the real McCoy. Some of you may know I A/V modded it earlier. I have to make some comments on my screen obviously. First, the picture quality is pretty good, although the colors are a bit off, though not by that much. Second, the audio... I'm not sure. It seemed crappy in SMB3 but when I played Halo it seemed fine. Maybe that fake Game Genie damaged my NES, I have to check. Last thing, this screen is only 16:9 but I don't really notice or care that much.
G'night everyone!
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
grossaffe said:
Well, as you know most games require you to have your LEFT hand on the analog stick. That's fine and dandy, but for the shooters I need the analog stick in my right. I've tried the default controls and they are strange and horrible. So I use 1.2 (Solitaire in 007 GoldenEye), but I use the analog stick in my RIGHT hand. And yes I've tried it the other way, it just doesn't work for me. So basically this will be a switch to switch from a stick on the left side to one on the right.
so its a similar idea, but mine takes it a step farther. Perfect Dark and Goldeneye have options for a dual-analog style by using two controllers at a time. my idea was to integrate two controllers into the portable so you could use both joysticks. Big problem is that Goldeneye doesn't have the ideal dual-analog setup like Perfect Dark has where you can have move/strafe on one stick and look/turn on the other, so you'd need to mix-and-match joysticks for goldeneye. If you're interested, there's more on that idea in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=489XCVG said:
now, for what you're trying to do, there is always this controller to hack up which has two joysticks so you can swap which one you wish to use.
Its called the Nyko Alpha Pro 64.
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
A little update
Here's a bit of an update:
See, it still works! It looks like there's something horribly wrong with my TV but don't worry, that's just the picture. Both the TV and N64 are fine. I did have a bit of a scare while testing. The thing refused to turn on and refused to light up, and when I tried the PSU on my other N64 it didn't work either. It turned out I had put the jumper pak in backwards. Two minutes later I had reset the PSU, flipped the jumper pak around, and verified that the N64 still works.
Here's what I did. I removed the controller ports and the reset button. Also, I removed some screw post thingies on the board. One red circle shows the damage one of them did when I removed it, luckily there is only ground there. The other circle shows the reset button wire. Bacteria's guide says to put it there, but as far as I can tell it's not connected to anything.
My next victim, a Tremor Pak Plus. I forgot to take pictures of the insides, d'oh. Anyway, I still need a third party controller to use, should have bought one in Victoria when I got my N64, oh well.
And finally, this is my horribly messy work area. I can work fine in it, but my dad says I should clean it up. But then I would have to get everything out and make a mess again
I hope you all enjoyed my little update!
Here's a bit of an update:
See, it still works! It looks like there's something horribly wrong with my TV but don't worry, that's just the picture. Both the TV and N64 are fine. I did have a bit of a scare while testing. The thing refused to turn on and refused to light up, and when I tried the PSU on my other N64 it didn't work either. It turned out I had put the jumper pak in backwards. Two minutes later I had reset the PSU, flipped the jumper pak around, and verified that the N64 still works.
Here's what I did. I removed the controller ports and the reset button. Also, I removed some screw post thingies on the board. One red circle shows the damage one of them did when I removed it, luckily there is only ground there. The other circle shows the reset button wire. Bacteria's guide says to put it there, but as far as I can tell it's not connected to anything.
My next victim, a Tremor Pak Plus. I forgot to take pictures of the insides, d'oh. Anyway, I still need a third party controller to use, should have bought one in Victoria when I got my N64, oh well.
And finally, this is my horribly messy work area. I can work fine in it, but my dad says I should clean it up. But then I would have to get everything out and make a mess again
I hope you all enjoyed my little update!
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
Casework
Why is there so little interest? Have I done something wrong? Do people just not care anymore?
MIGHTYPUTTY!!!!! It's basically epoxy putty, but instead of two sticks each stick has two layers (green and white). And it's greenish when mixed together. This is my first time with epoxy putty and I must say it's pretty cool. The box says to wear gloves so it can't be good for you though. Also notice the picture of Billy Mays (R.I.P.)(the new guy sucks). Maybe he died of exposure to all those products he demonstrated?
The case is full of big holes. Seriously. So I added this grille (from the bottom of an N64 case) to one of them.
I took the screen off too so I could work on the bottom more easily:
I removed the jacks from the side bit. The dremel drill bits are great for cleaning out hot glue! It turned out that I had to remove that part, so this was kind of pointless.
After that I attached the side panel with Mighty Putty. It actually doesn't stick very well at first, then it gets really hard and adhesive. The side panel has spaces around it but I can't fill them because of the way the case is put together. The top part has most of the open frame that I'm trying to fill in, but of course the N64 and most of the parts will be mounted to the bottom. A top cover or two-half case would have been better, but I'm trying to be a bit creative and use this case. I have to get some Perspex soon to do the top and bottom parts. Also, this machine is going to have controller wings. Why? Because I'd never be able to get it closed otherwise. The sticks would hit the top part.
I got out the Bondo too, and did the side panel. What I'm using is Spot and Glazing putty, I hope it's the right stuff. This stuff doesn't have a long working time and is kinda goopy. The best way to apply it is with a finger (gloved or finger-condom'ed of course). Also, latex gloves suck, my fingers smell like solvent anyway. Anyway, this is kind of a crappy Bondo job, but it's the first one I've done, ever.
And of course, the customary overall shot of what I've done today. That's it, please leave a comment, even if it is mean and slanderous!
Why is there so little interest? Have I done something wrong? Do people just not care anymore?
MIGHTYPUTTY!!!!! It's basically epoxy putty, but instead of two sticks each stick has two layers (green and white). And it's greenish when mixed together. This is my first time with epoxy putty and I must say it's pretty cool. The box says to wear gloves so it can't be good for you though. Also notice the picture of Billy Mays (R.I.P.)(the new guy sucks). Maybe he died of exposure to all those products he demonstrated?
The case is full of big holes. Seriously. So I added this grille (from the bottom of an N64 case) to one of them.
I took the screen off too so I could work on the bottom more easily:
I removed the jacks from the side bit. The dremel drill bits are great for cleaning out hot glue! It turned out that I had to remove that part, so this was kind of pointless.
After that I attached the side panel with Mighty Putty. It actually doesn't stick very well at first, then it gets really hard and adhesive. The side panel has spaces around it but I can't fill them because of the way the case is put together. The top part has most of the open frame that I'm trying to fill in, but of course the N64 and most of the parts will be mounted to the bottom. A top cover or two-half case would have been better, but I'm trying to be a bit creative and use this case. I have to get some Perspex soon to do the top and bottom parts. Also, this machine is going to have controller wings. Why? Because I'd never be able to get it closed otherwise. The sticks would hit the top part.
I got out the Bondo too, and did the side panel. What I'm using is Spot and Glazing putty, I hope it's the right stuff. This stuff doesn't have a long working time and is kinda goopy. The best way to apply it is with a finger (gloved or finger-condom'ed of course). Also, latex gloves suck, my fingers smell like solvent anyway. Anyway, this is kind of a crappy Bondo job, but it's the first one I've done, ever.
And of course, the customary overall shot of what I've done today. That's it, please leave a comment, even if it is mean and slanderous!
snowpenguin
Frequent Poster
Nah I'm getting a WES51 soon. What are you planning on doing about the holes left over in the grille you just bondo'd in? Some are covered in bondo, others not. 
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
snowpenguin said:Nah I'm getting a WES51 soon. What are you planning on doing about the holes left over in the grille you just bondo'd in? Some are covered in bondo, others not.
Leaving them open, I'll try to clean out the ones affected by my horribly Bondo job.
eurddrue said:I got it for freeeeeeeeXCVG said:eurddrue said:Lawl, only 3 hours went by. And, I have the same soldering iron
Really? I thought I was the only one who bothered buying quality soldering irons!
Lucky!
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
LOL I has t3h same iron tooz!
The progress looks good so far, just be careful with that bondo spot filler. I put it on too thick in one spot and it cracked. Was a ton of work to make it nice again. Also, mighty putty is good, but I use something called quicksteel from walmart. It is basicly the same thing, but reenforced with steel and stronger and cheaper. I highly reccommend it. It's only $3.49!
The progress looks good so far, just be careful with that bondo spot filler. I put it on too thick in one spot and it cracked. Was a ton of work to make it nice again. Also, mighty putty is good, but I use something called quicksteel from walmart. It is basicly the same thing, but reenforced with steel and stronger and cheaper. I highly reccommend it. It's only $3.49!
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
Basement_Modder said:LOL I has t3h same iron tooz!
The progress looks good so far, just be careful with that bondo spot filler. I put it on too thick in one spot and it cracked. Was a ton of work to make it nice again. Also, mighty putty is good, but I use something called quicksteel from walmart. It is basicly the same thing, but reenforced with steel and stronger and cheaper. I highly reccommend it. It's only $3.49!
I think I have enough mighty putty, but I guess I'll check out the quicksteel if I see it. What section is it in?
Also, what tip do you use on your iron? I used an ST7 0.8mm conical tip.
