Toasty64

ToastBucket said:
But I'm stepping down for the higher current draw stuff and up for the lower current draw stuff. The buckboost has 96% efficiency and the step up has 90% (it's a PTN04050CAZ)
I'm just saying that you should allow the highest voltage possible to the audio amp (like for the GC).

Also, the PTN04050CAZ has a minimum voltage of 2.95V, just so you know.
 
I'm starting to work on this again, along with everything else. Progress will be slow until my commission is finished, as that's a priority, but I have a little question. Should I stick with the Retrocon stick, or wait for 3DS nubs to be produced by dealextreme or something. Luckily the depression around the Retrocon stick is pretty much the exact same size as the one in the 3DS ( it was difficult to measure, but I think it's a millimeter or so bigger) so I could probably swap it out after it's finished. Ideas?
 
Anyone having trouble wiring up their 4-way tacts, I am using one from mouser (P/N: 688-SKQUAA) and I've tested it with a multimeter to get this.

4waytact-toasty64.png


Haven't actually tried it on the controller yet, but it works with mah meter :awesometoast:
 
http://toasttech.com/forum/index.php?topic=77.0

Woooooo! Finally getting close. Seeing as I was obviously never going to get it done, I paid budnespid some money to trim and wire up another board for me and I just got it in the mail. It is a perfect fit, just like the other board, but it's not a rev 5 so I can't do a RAM swap. However, the Jumper Pak isn't relocated and I've gotten the batteries to fit, so I might be able to fit an Expansion Pak in. Unfortunately, at the moment, I haven't been able to get the board working. Haven't done much testing, but I don't think it's fried. Prolly just a wire came loose or a short was created during shipping (It was tested before shipping). Now for the best part.

UdGIp.jpg

The wires need to be cleaned up a bit in there. It's a close shave :p

P4SQA.jpg

Cart slot hasn't been secured yet so it's just kinda hanging down.
Also, those vent holes suck, but I need some sort of ventilation.​

Well, now it's quite close to finished once this board starts working. All it needs is the controller board cut down and placed, controls wired up, screen wired up, and an audio amp. I'm getting a bit excited.
 
That whole wiring the RCA jacks backwards thing was a complete accident. I should probably wear my glasses more often and get some color coded cables :p

Toast, now that you have a super sexy bud n64, finishing this thing should be easy cheese. :D
 
budnespid said:
That whole wiring the RCA jacks backwards thing was a complete accident. I should probably wear my glasses more often and get some color coded cables :p

Toast, now that you have a super sexy bud n64, finishing this thing should be easy cheese. :D

Oh it will. Btw, for everyone else, the testing RCA jacks were wired backwards so I was inputting audio into video etc. I've done a lot of work already. Pics when the board and batteries are installed.
 
Don't forget to add filtering caps on the audio and video lines. I use 220uf for video and one 10uf for each of the audio lines. You can reuse the caps from an old n64 ;)
 
Well when I tested it on the tv, anytime loud sounds played it would get interference and black lines. It really doesn't hurt to add them on. All of the signals are coming straight from the AV chip.
 
ShockSlayer said:
I guess I dunno how it's wired, but I've never put on any extra caps for filtering?

SS

All the filtering caps and resistors that are normally there have been cut out. This one cap is replacing them.
 
There's only what 6 left on the board I think? None that are left filter any of the AV stuff.

Toast should totally take some glamour shots of the board ::3:
 
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