Sprocket64 Worklog. FINISHED. See page 27.

Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

Funny, I remember one guy (I forget who) whose N64p didn't work because he used a 2.2K resistor on his PTH08080 (lower voltage, slightly) then switched to a 1.8K resistor (almost exactly 3.3V, except for me of course) and it worked perfectly. Maybe my memory is fuzzy or there were other factors?
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

XCVG said:
Funny, I remember one guy (I forget who) whose N64p didn't work because he used a 2.2K resistor on his PTH08080 (lower voltage, slightly) then switched to a 1.8K resistor (almost exactly 3.3V, except for me of course) and it worked perfectly. Maybe my memory is fuzzy or there were other factors?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I was positive that other members claimed that the system didn't work very well without a new perfect 3.3 volts.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

There will be some variance between units, some might under-volt well, others may need the full 3.3V. It's worthwhile testing for yourself though, it doesn't hurt to give the 3.3V line less voltage.

I've just looked at my notes and at one point with my soldered exp pak, I was running at 2.85V and consuming 600mA total from the battery, although it crashed after 15 mins, it was a huge decrease in power usage compared to when I tested a stock n64 with exp pak with a pth08080 at 3.3V and it pulled 900mA from the battery. When I got it stable at 3.05V it drew 710mA, still quite a power saving. Less power means less heat.

Here's some of my notes from my tests;
(7.4V li-ion, pth08080, soldered exp pak, perfect dark 8 bot multi-player)
2.85V = 600mA = crash 15 mins
2.90V = 640mA = crash 27 mins
3.00V = 680mA = crash 43 mins
3.05V = 710mA = stable 4 hours+
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

XCVG said:
Funny, I remember one guy (I forget who) whose N64p didn't work because he used a 2.2K resistor on his PTH08080 (lower voltage, slightly) then switched to a 1.8K resistor (almost exactly 3.3V, except for me of course) and it worked perfectly. Maybe my memory is fuzzy or there were other factors?
Click to expand...
That was me. :dahroll:

I heard that the newer models needed the full 3.3v, and nothing lower. Pretty ironic, actually. On my first N64 portable, I had a rev.3 board that would take the 3.1v, but when I fried it I got a rev.8 board. It wouldn't run on 3.1v.

So, daftmike, are you saying my heatsink is fine, even though it gets too hot to touch? Though, I suppose, that would mean it conducts heat very well. :p But will it dissipate enough? I'll do some tests myself to see, but I want to know if it should be OK.

ShockSlayer said:
Hardcore.

Does that include an EXP pack, what about more intensive games like perfect dark? Or does this come with a "*your results may vary" tag?

SS
Click to expand...
The N64p will not have an exp.pack due to lack of space. It will be possible to put one in later, but the back cover will have to be out a bit (but it's hinged anyway). I originally tested with Majora's Mask before I realized it wouldn't have the exp. pack, and the N64 got much hotter a lot faster than with Ocarina of Time.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

It should be ok with some ventilation, although it's a little thin, in terms of surface area it's not too far off the heatsinks I've seen many people use in n64 portables.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

From my experiences, they need 3.19v+ with expansion pak, and will work with 2.95 with a jumper pak. My n64p would crash with the expansion pak in, but wouldn't with the jumper. :neutral2:
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

Board revisions for these numbers would be nice.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

I have a rev. 5 board, and it works fine on 3.16 volts for the short time I tested it.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

My board was rev 4. ::3: Rev 8 works on nearly the same voltages, with the same paks in. :)
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

Small update. I actually got the controller board and regulator a while ago, but didn't much bother to update.

1jpwgm.jpg


Here's the controller. The extremely observant will note that this is the same controller I used in my first N64p. But, you know, who would know that except me? :rolleyes: You can see four black lines - this is how far I will be cutting the controller. No problem, just a few traces to rewire, mostly ground. You can see here I already relocated two resistors:
wvsjer.jpg


The only thing is, it doesn't work with the standard C-button joystick mod, so I'll have to think of something else. Probably using transistors.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

Hmmm, that's odd that it doesn't work with the joystick. Have you tried playing with resistor values?

Yay I got linked! :dah:
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

I used the same controller, and cut it down in the same places. The c-stick worked fine for me, no resistors.
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

snowpenguin said:
Hmmm, that's odd that it doesn't work with the joystick. Have you tried playing with resistor values?
Click to expand...
Basement_Modder said:
I used the same controller, and cut it down in the same places. The c-stick worked fine for me, no resistors.
Click to expand...
For some reason, It's always moving in one direction for me. I used a lot of different resistors, but I don't think I actually tried just the joystick. Was yours 10k, BM?
 
Re: Sprocket64 Worklog. Copper Sheet Heatsink!

Mario said:
snowpenguin said:
Hmmm, that's odd that it doesn't work with the joystick. Have you tried playing with resistor values?
Click to expand...
Basement_Modder said:
I used the same controller, and cut it down in the same places. The c-stick worked fine for me, no resistors.
Click to expand...
For some reason, It's always moving in one direction for me. I used a lot of different resistors, but I don't think I actually tried just the joystick. Was yours 10k, BM?
Click to expand...
I have no clue. Its whatever the 1st party gamecube c-stick is. :lol:
 
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