Shank's Wii Super Thread


Formerly Known As Dyxlesci
This guide is outdated and no longer updated. Click here for the latest version

There are a few wii guides, but the info is rather scattered. In this thread, I will consolidate and summarize as much of it as possible, while linking to other threads with more detailed information. This guide is a work in progress. It is incomplete, but even what I have so far should prove useful for some.
ModRetro taught me almost everything I know about electronics, including the skills to make these guides. This is my way of returning the favor to you guys. If this guide helps you on your project, let me know, or mention it in your post or something. Idk. It makes me feel good knowing I made a difference.

Also, HUGE thank you to the following users:

About the Wii
Gamecube 2.0
When the gamecube was released, it was incredibly powerful for its time. So powerful, in fact, that when it became time to release their next generation video game console, nintendo decided to upgrade the gamecube rather than create a new system. The processors are simply upgraded versions clocking in at 50% faster. In addition, a coprocessor, nicknamed Starlet, was added to handle new functionality such as bluetooth and USB. But since it uses the same processor, the wii handles all gamecube games perfectly, as they are running natively rather than being emulated. So this system can do everything a gamecube can do, and more. In fact, they even use the same modchips!

A better gamecube than the gamecube
First off, a wii uses significantly less power than a gamecube, including when running gamecube games. That means less heat generation and longer battery life in a portable when playing the same game. A wii also has component video natively, so you can play in beautiful progressive without having sell your kidney to buy a gamecube component cable. In addition, through apps such as nintendon't, you can use other USB/Bluetooth controllers, integrate hacks, emulate gamecube controllers, and so much more with gamecube games you couldn't do with a regular gamecube. You can use up to 2TB external storage (compared with limited storage of a modchip's SD card). Load times are significantly faster as well through USB. You don't even need to buy a modchip or any hardware to mod it; just a standard SD card and you are good to go! Emulators made for gamecube will actually run better on a Wii than a gamecube too!

More than just a gamecube
Obviously the wii can play gamecube and wii games. Something else to consider are virtual console and wiiware games. A large portion of classic games have been ported over to the wii. With homebrew, emulators for any retro system and apps for any purpose can be loaded and used from the system. A wii can play wii and gamecube games flawlessly, and is more than powerful enough to emulate all of nintendo's previous systems. So you by building a portable wii, you have a portable wii, gamecube, and retro emulation machine!

"But you need a wii remote to navigate the menu and software"
Nope! Homebrew has made remotes obsolete, unless you want to use it for games that require it. Here is a demonstration of just how great life is without the wii remote

*Note: I have made this video unlisted on youtube

Aside from the cost saved by not having to buy a modchip, Wiis are more abundant and cheaper than gamecubes. I commonly pick them up for $10-20 on a regular basis.
Wii sold millions and millions of consoles.
-The motion gaming fad sold consoles to non gamers
-The gamers who bought them got their share of good games
However, wiis are no longer desired because:
-Wii U is backwards compatible
-Motion gaming fad died out
-Dolphin allows emulation of gamecube and wii games

-The wii runs on about  of power depending on the revision.
--Varies based on revision. See revision guide for more info.
--Smaller CPU=consumes less power
-Wii's require at least 10.2v to boot when using stock regulators
-The wii runs on 8 voltage sections, not including ground or RTC battery

--3.3v (only on while system is on)
--3.3v Standby (always on)

Notes on power rails:
-12v stays at 12v, no matter what vcc is
-2 Separate voltage 3.3v lines
-14 pin IC controls shutoff of regulators
-Vcc is unregulated power in, ideally 12v, but will operate on anything above 10.2

Here is everything the 5v line does as far as I know:
Connects to the 5v regulation circuitry
Runs through a section in the voltage layer
Runs to 5v output line on av out port
Connects to a transistor.
-1 pin of transistor is connected to one of the 3 Japan only AV port pins
-The other transistor runs to a pin on the video encoder
Powers rumble pins on 4 gamecube controller ports
Powers some Gamecube Memory Card pins
Powers USB ports
Runs to a transistor that runs to the cooling fan

Types of regulators
-3.3v Standby (RVL-60, RVK-01, RVK-02, and RVO-01 only)
-1.8v (LDO Regulator)
-3.3v Standby (RVL 01, 20, 30, and 40 only)
Other/unknown method

Here is a diagram of the capacitors, inductors, and linear regulators of the primary voltage lines:

How the 1v, 1.15v, 3.3v, and 5v regulation works:
On top of the board in the regulation section, there are several 8 pin transistors. They are simple MOSFET transistors. The transistors are controlled by the three large IC's on the bottom of the board, highlighted below. The ICs detect the voltage on the voltage line, and adjust the duty cycle of those transistors accordingly to regulate voltage.


While I personally have not attempted to run the wii off custom regulators, shockslayer and zenloc have. Zenloc has even been able to run the wiii off of only 2 voltage lines! Here is what he had to say about it:

Little update. Just revised my custom regulator and now have it running of 3.3v 1.5A max and 1.2v 4A max. This gives me full WII and GC functionality. Only thing is that the sound booster amp that boost the audio signal now does not work. but it is not really needed for portable use and if you do what to use it it will power of 7.4 or higher voltages.

the 1v line and 1.15v line is being powered together with 1.2v. Both can't be reduced so it is the limit. 1.2v is more stable when running both cpu and gpu of 1 regulator.

1.8v line is powered by the memory regulator on the top of the board. That supplies 1.75v which is powered from the 3.3v line. If you just wire the output to the 1.8v connection on the wii it will work.

As for the 3.3v always on signal, this can be power from a regular 3.3v line as it will be switched on and off using a regular power switch and not via the bluetooth remote. Be sure to remove the small sharp regulator next to the mx chip and wire 3.3v to the cap next to it.

For it to work you must use the above instructions. If not it won't boot or give problems.
Bentomo also has info lower down on this page. More detailed info will be posted as it is discovered.

-The wii has 3 daughterboards:

Disc Drive Board
-Required to play any nintendo software or game
--Includes, but not limited to, usb loading wii games, dios mios, and virtual console
--Not required for nintendont
--Will give you a "error has occurred... turn off console..." error if disc drive is cause
---Can be resolved by replugging ffc, replacing drive board, or replacing ffc
-Requires FFC cable to run games
-mixed reportiong on if disc drive board needs multi pin power connector to load games from SD/USB
-Can be used without actual disc drive, just the board.
-Has been emulated with mod chips.
-Nobody has successfully spoofed it using software :(
-Can be replaced with wiikey fusion or similar devices

WiFi Board
-Bigger of the two wireless cards. Has 2 antennas connected to it.
-Required to boot
-Not present on wii mini
--Wii mini has solder pads and traces for wifi card
--Wii mini boots without wifi card. This might mean the wii could be modded to do so as well
-Communicates through USB protocol

Bluetooth Board

-Small board towards the front of the board
-Used for wii remotes and other bluetooth controllers
-Required for boot
-Removing the sticker reveals test pads, useful solder points for relocation
-Communicates through USB protocol

I covered the info in depth in my Wii board revision guide. Here is a graph that gives a quick comparison of the major differences between revisions.

There are 8 wii revisions


And this is how you figure out which one you have

If you can't remove the screw to check, such as when purchasing a wii online, you can ensure you get a 4 layer die shrunk (40 or 60) by purchasing a wii that has gamecube controller ports and isn't white. You can get a revision 40 or 60 from a white shell, but you will not find a revision 01, 20, or 30 in a red, black, or light blue wii. So again, buying a wii that isn't in a white shell ensures that you get one that is efficient and easier to cut.


Earlier Wiis have 6 Layers
Newer Wiis have 4 Layers

4 layer boards are easier to work with as the 6 layer ones are more complex and have many traces that aren't visible. I have only tried cutting the 4 layer boards successfully. Here are the layers of a 4 layer board from to to bottom:

Top Visible layer: TRACES You can see this layer. It contains lots of traces
Top Hidden Layer: GND. The ENTIRE layer is a single piece of grounded copper
Bottom Hidden Layer: VOLTAGE. This layer consists of different sections of voltages, and no traces
Bottom Visible Layer: TRACES You can see this layer as well. It contains lots of traces too

Here is the voltage layer


Integrated Circuits
As with any circuit board, the wii has quite a few integrated circuits, or ICs.

The Wii's CPU, nicknamed "Broadway" is a stronger version of the gamecube's PowerPC Gecko. It is almost identical to the PowerPc 750CL. The older larger chips are made using a 90nm process while the newer smaller chips are made with the 65nm process. The  chips use significantly less power.
No datasheet is currently available for the Broadway, but here is the datasheet for the PowerPC , which is almost identical to the Broadway.



Flash Memory
-There are a few different manufacturers, but they all serve the same purpose

MX Chip

Video Encoder
Here is a diagram of the video encoder pins drawn up by none other than our lord Ashen himself

Audio Amp
-Runs on 12v line

1.8v LDO
-Low dropout regulator
-Powers the 1.8v line
-Power Stats (For RVL-40)
--Current is ~350 mA
--Intakes 3.3v
--Outputs 1.8v
--Consumes ~..
--Creates ~. of heat

Voltage Comparator
-Checks voltage lines, shuts down if anomoly is detected
-Does not communicate with other chips, and can be removed

Switch mode controllers
-Control 8 pin mosfet transistors on top of board.
-Control regulation
-There are different variations, all start with LV50.
-Different ones have different resistor values
-All resistors same ratio from board to board
-Even same revisions have different LV chips

Mysterious 5 pin ICs
The purpose of these small 5 pin integrated circuits is still unknown.

Aside from the 8 pin transistors used for power regulation, there are quite a few individual transistors on the wii. I don't know what any of them do at all. There are about 16 of them, and some cause problems when removed. I have yet to completely discover their purposes.

Here is the uses known so far. Keep in mind this info is unconfirmed
-Sensor bar
-Green LED
-Red LED
-Disc Drive LED
-SD Card Sense Pin
-Voltage Shutoff

Capacitors and Resistors
Blargaman was kind enough to measure the value of EVERY resistor and capacitor on the RVL-40 board. You can find the list on the 2nd page of this thread. The list is too long to repost in this post.


AV, Power, Sensor Bar, GameCube Controller, and USB

(full size image link)

Goals to add:
Gamecube Memory Card Pinout
SD Card Pinout
Disc Drive Pinout
Face Buttons Pinout
Clock Battery Pinout

Recommendations for Storage

SD Card
The wii supports SDHC, which goes up to 32GB, or more through reformatted SDXC cards. For this reason, I say the best bang for your buck is a32GB Sandisk Micro SD with an adapter.

You can use larger SDXC cards if you reformat them to Fat32, however this can cause issues, or make data less stable. The PNY 256 Gb SD Card has been completely functional for me (once formatted to fat32) and has been able to address files when almost filled up. If you want more storage, and are willing to pay for it, I recommend it. It loads fast and works to my satasfaction

Flash Drive
The price of flash storage is just dropping so fast. My go-to flash drive of choice is the 64GB Sandisk Cruzer Fit. This thing is tiny, inexpensive, and offers up to 64GB of storage. Its about the size of a USB mouse dongle, so you can plug it into the back of your wii, and forget its there. I can also confirm that the 128GB Sandisk Ultra Fit works with the wii as well. It offers up to 128GB, and has USB 3, but it is a little bigger than its older brother.

Hard Drive
If you want more than 128GB and don't mind the size, a hard drive is the way to go. However, the wii seems to be kind of picky when it comes to what external hard drives it works with. Of the few that I have used, and hours of scouring the internet researching and comparing compatibility, I recommend the Western Digital MyPassport. It works with the Wii, has USB 3 to load files on it quickly, doesn't require a Y cable, its inexpensive, and most importantly IT ACTUALLY WORKS. If you want a hard drive for your wii, and don't want to do compare and do research, I recommend this one.

Don't forget to formate your drives to FAT32 with 32KB clusters
Here is some software (PC only) to allow you to format it to the right size with the right clusters.

Please note that none of these links are affiliate links. I make no money off these and have no affiliation with any of these companies. They are simply my personal recommendation based off of my own personal experience with the Wii. I'm simply trying to save people from having to do extensive research or buy a bunch of units to test. If any of these don't work for you, please do not hold me responsible.

Wii Mini
Here is are some fun facts about the wii mini:
Disc Drive
-Top loading
-Uses different connector than the wii
-Drive swap capability has not been tested.
-Uses a plug connecter rather than an FFC
-No gamecube ports or solder pads
-No SD card or Solder Pads
-No wifi card, but DOES have solder pads for one
-No component video lines or caps
-Only has 1 USB port compared to wii's dual ports
-Uses same/similar Bluetooth module, but has a slightly different connector
Other Info
-Uses much smaller fan and heat sink system
-Uses NO proprietary screws
-Board layout is very similar to the other 4 layer wii boards
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Thats really cool I hope people start to work on wii portables if only Ashen were active I bet he could trim the wii motherboard down pretty small
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Dyxlesci can do for the Wii what Ashen did for the Gamecube.

He has big dreams of a small motherboard. It will happen.
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Is it known if the Wii Mini's OS could be loaded onto a regular Wii via BootMii or something? If the Wii mini removes the need for the Wifi card through the OS could the Wii do the same if loaded with the Wii mini's OS?
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Technically, yes, there should be no problem in loading and running the Wii mini's OS on the regular Wii, however, to get the OS you need the system key, which is stored in the starlet ROM (inside the GPU die itself). If you look in the Wii mini cracking thread, we are trying to find a way to get/crack the key on a Wii mini which would allow us to get the OS (and perhaps allow us to make an IOS for regular wiis, disabling the wifi chip).
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

I got the Wii running on custom regulators.

I used a PTH08080 for the 3.3v line, and a PTR08100 for the 1.2v line.

I had to bump up the 1.2v line to 1.3v to account for the voltage drop under load.

The Wii draws between 700-800mA from a 12v source in the homebrew channel in game. This confirms Zenlocs approximate power draw of 8.4-9.6W. I only tested a couple games so this could go up. There was alsono 5v power supply on so the fan wasn't on and no USB.

On the front I removed the 3.3v always-on regulator, which I don't know if it's necessary to remove. But I did have to bridge it with the normal 3.3v line. But as Zenloc said this gives you the advantage of turning on as soon as you apply power.

On the back I applied the 3.3v line from the regulators to the 3.3v test point and bridge the 1v test point with the 1.15v test point and applied the 1.2v supply here.
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

NICE! Finally we have some documentation on custom regulators.

Zenloc said his original power consumption ratings were based on an 01 wii. Are your readings with or without a disc drive connected? Are you sure leaving the regs on the board isn't causing some sort of inefficiency? I just feel like the power consumption should be lower than that
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

I have added quite a bit of information to the thread. If there is anything you want me to add or change, or any ideas you have to make this guide better, please feel free to let me know.
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

I got my new preheating station.


I've succesfully removed and documented all of the power supply components on the front and back of the Wii motherboard rev4-A.

The Wii still runs just fine on the 1.2v and 3.3v line. This knocks out over 150 components from the Wii's mainboard that you won't have to worry about.


Unfortunately this does not solve the 5v problem that is required for USB. This also seems to be preventing my from syncing wiimotes anymore. I believe this is due to the bluetooth modules USB interface with the wii which would run on 5v. When I connect 5v to the 5v output spot of the switching regulator I get complete system failure. There seems to be a small .3v signal here when the system is turned on with just 1.2 and 3.3v. I'll have to do some more investigation on the internal layer to find out what's causing the issue.

Here's the front

Here's the back

I knew it wasn't necessary to document any components related to the switching power supply but I just decided to do it to be thorough

Here are the removed components, The "N" just means that it is not required, it's just a snippit from my master spreadsheet that will be posted later.
Q21 N
Q6 N
Q8 N
Q12 N
Q11 N
Q13 N
Q14 N
C246 N
C300 N
C235 N
C236 N
C255 N
C259 N
C260 N
L2 N
L5 N
L4 N
L1 N
L6 N

R134 N 0.402 1.49KΩ
R135 N 0.402 47KΩ
R137 N 0.402 47KΩ
C282 N 0.402 10nF
C283 N 0.402 100nF
D18 N 0.402 0.784v

D13 N 1206 0.226v
R118 N 0.603 .05Ω
R127 N 0.603 .05Ω
R124 N 0.603 .05Ω
R88 N 0.603 .05Ω
R91 N 0.603 .05Ω
R95 N 0.603 .05Ω
C253 N 1206 10uF
C241 N 0.402 10nF
C238 N 0.402 10nF
C247 N 0.402 10nF
C240 N 1206 10uF

C284 N 0.201 100nF
R138 N 0.201 470KΩ
R139 N 0.201 120KΩ
R142 N 0.201 50KΩ
C324 N tant 1206 22uF
C289 N 0.201 100nF
R92 N 0.603 0.05Ω
R89 N 0.603 0.05Ω
R128 N 0.603 0.066Ω
R125 N 0.603 0.066Ω
R122 N 0.603 0.066Ω
C254 N 1206 10uF
C242 N 1206 10uF
D8 N 1206 0.21V
D15 N 1206 0.21V
D7 N 1206 0.21V

RA16 N 0.402x4 10KΩx4
Q20 N miniSOT P/N?
Q19 N miniSOT P/N?
C287 N 0.201 100nF
R152 N 0.201 10KΩ
Q18 N miniSOT P/N?
Q17 N miniSot P/N?
Q15 N miniSOT P/N?
R145 N 0.201 10KΩ
DA11 N miniSOT 0.6V common cathode
C285 N 0.201 1uF
R143 N 0.201 267KΩ
R140 N 0.201 560KΩ
R141 N 0.201 10KΩ
C286 N 0.201 1uF
R150 N 0.201 N/A not populated
RA17 N 0.402x4 10KΩx4
D30 N 0.603 0.63V
Q16 N miniSOT P/N?
C291 N 0.201 1uF
R160 N 0.201 270KΩ
Q22 N miniSOT P/N?
R154 N 0.201 560KΩ
D17 N 0.21V
R129 N 0.603 0.05Ω
R126 N 0.603 0.05Ω
R123 N 0.603 0.05Ω
C258 N 1206 10uF
C261 N 0.201 10nF
C262 N 0.201 10nF
c256 n 0.201 10nf
C249 N 1206 10uF

C276 N 0.402 N/A not populated
C278 N 0.402 N/A not populated
C288 N 0.201 100nF
R164 N 2512 38.9Ω
R107 N 0.402 5Ω
C231 N 0.402 2.2uF
R153 N 0.201 .05Ω
C223 N 0.402 100nF
TH3 N 0.603 4.65Ω at 20 degrees C
C252 N 0.402 1uF
D16 N 0.402 0.63V
R121 N 0.402 5Ω
C273 N 0.402 100nF
R111 N 0.402 33KΩ
C280 N 0.402 2.2nF
R133 N 0.402 4.4KΩ
R132 N 0.402 11KΩ
R115 N 0.402 10KΩ
C279 N 0.402 5.2nF
C272 N 0.402 1nF
C281 N 0.402 10nF
R120 N 0.402 1.2KΩ
C301 N 0.201 10nF

C215 N 0.402 not populated
C220 N 0.402 not populated
C239 N 0.201 10nF
D12 N 0.402 0.64V
R112 N 0.402 5.13Ω
C236 N 0.402 100nF
C251 N 0.402 1uF
R99 N 0.402 10KΩ
C213 N 0.402 7.4nF
R83 N 0.402 3.15KΩ
R82 N 0.402 11KΩ
R117 N 0.402 1.1KΩ
C268 N 0.402 10nF
C211 N 0.402 2.2nF
C210 N 0.402 10nF
C267 N 0.402 450pF
D6 N 0.402 0.63V
C219 N 0.402 100nF
R100 N 0.402 5.13Ω
C316 N 0.402 2.2uF
R105 N 0.402 5.13Ω
R108 N 0.402 19.7KΩ
C212 N 0.402 10nF
R94 N 0.402 1KΩ
R104 N 0.402 20KΩ
C208 N 0.402 100nF

C269 N 0.402 N/A not populated
C228 N 0.402 N/A not populated
C275 N 0.402 N/A not populated
Q25 N SOT23-6 P/N?
R151 N 0.201 10KΩ
C333 N 0.201 343pF
Q20 N miniSOT P/N?
RA18 N 0.402x4 10KΩx4
C293 N 0.201 10nF
C247 N 0.201 10nF
D25 N 1206 0.223V

C257 N 0.201 10nF
C264 N 0.402 100nF
D14 N 0.201 0.63V
R114 N 0.402 5.13Ω
C277 N 0.402 7.5nF
R110 N 0.402 15KΩ
R131 N 0.402 54.7KΩ
R130 N 0.402 11KΩ
R119 N 0.402 1.26K
C271 N 0.402 10nF
C270 N 0.402 15nF
C274 N 0.402 5.3nF
R113 N 0.402 10KΩ
C217 N 0.402 15nF
C216 N 0.402 5nF
C221 N 0.402 100nF
R97 N 0.402 1.79KΩ
R84 N 0.402 11KΩ
R85 N 0.402 33KΩ
C222 N 0.402 2.2nF
R96 N 0.402 39.4KΩ
C214 N 0.402 2.2nF
C218 N 0.402 2.2uF
R102 N 0.402 5.13Ω
C229 N 0.402 100nF
R106 N 0.402 5.13Ω
D9 N 0.201 0.63V
C245 N 0.402 1uF
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Wow, that's great to hear. Could the Wii realistically be trimmed down to the size of the GC some day?

Awesome work Bentomo and Dyxlesci!
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Noah said:
Could the Wii realistically be trimmed down to the size of the GC some day?

Certainly. Thats the point of documenting the system. It could be trimmed significantly smaller than the gamecube, given enough effort on relocating components. The components are significantly smaller than their gamecube counterparts. We know almost everything about the system on the hardware end. Whats left that we don't fully understand, other than software, are the 5-pin ICs, a few of the 3 pin transistors, some details in the voltage layer, and how the daughterboards interact with components on the main board. Aside from that, everything that needs to be known is here and accounted for.
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Wow this is turning out really impressive so far. Question: So ideally for a portable Wii, would it have an internal gamecube controller or like a wii classic controller? Would you still need the wiimote for navigating the system? How would the controls work exactly is what I'm wondering.
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Blargaman was kind enough to measure all the capacitors and resistors on the RVL-40 board. Here are his measurements:
C1 100 nF
C2 100 nF
C3 1 μF
C4 100 nF
C5 150 μF
C6 100 nF
C7 100 nF
C8 10 μF
C9 10 nF
C13 10 nF
C14 11 μF
C15 10 nF
C17 150 μF
C18 100 nF
C19 100 nF
C20 100 nF
C21 100 nF
C22 100 nF
C23 100 nF
C24 100 nF
C25 100 nF
C26 100 nF
C27 100 nF
C28 100 nF
C29 20 pF
C30 20 pF
C31 100 nF
C32 100 nF
C34 100 nF
C35 100 nF
C38 100 nF
C39 100 nF
C41 100 nF
C42 100 nF
C43 100 nF
C44 5 μF
C45 100 nF
C46 --
C47 11 μF
C48 100 nF
C49 --
C50 10 nF
C51 1 μF
C52 10 nF
C53 330 pF
C54 10 nF
C56 11 μF
C57 100 nF
C58 100 nF
C59 1 μF
C60 100 nF
C61 100 nF
C63 11 μF
C64 220 μF (6v)
C65 100 nF
C66 50 pF
C68 100 nF
C69 220 μF (6v)
C70 100 nF
C71 100 nF
C72 100 pF
C73 2.2 μF
C74 50 pF
C77 100 nF
C78 100 pF
C80 100 nF
C81 10 nF
C82 10 nF
C83 50 pF
C84 220 μF (6v)
C85 100 pF
C87 680 pF
C88 100 nF
C89 10 nF
C90 100 μF (16v)
C91 220 μF (6v)
C92 500 pF
C94 10 μF
C95 10 μF
C96 680 pF
C98 100 nF
C99 100 nF
C100 100 nF
C101 5 pF
C102 5 pF
C103 680 pF
C104 100 nF
C105 100 nF
C106 100 nF
C107 11 μF
C108 680 pF
C109 100 nF
C110 10 μF
C111 330 pF
C112 100 nF
C113 680 pF
C114 100 nF
C115 680 pF
C116 100 nF
C117 100 nF
C118 10 μF
C119 10 μF
C120 11 μF
C121 680 pF
C122 100 nF
C123 330 pF
C124 330 pF
C125 330 pF
C126 680 pF
C127 100 nF
C128 ?
C129 ?
C130 ?
C131 100 nF
C132 100 nF
C133 100 nF
C134 220 μF (10v)
C135 100 nF
C136 10 nF
C137 100 nF
C138 11 μF
C139 100 nF
C140 100 nF
C142 100 nF
C143 330 μF
C144 11 μF
C145 10 nF
C149 2.2 nF
C150 100 nF
C154 2.2 nF
C159 10 nF
C160 100 nF
C162 2.2 nF
C165 10 nF
C167 2.2 nF
C180 120 μF
C181 10 nF
C184 2.2 nF
C188 1 μF
C189 227 μF
C190 1 μF
C196 1 μF
C199 2.2 nF
C200 11 μF
C202 2.2 nF
C203 2.2 nF
C204 2.2 nF
C206 2.2 nF
C207 11 μF
C208 100 nF
C209 2.2 nF
C210 10 nF
C211 1 nF
C212 10 nF
C213 7 nF
C214 2.2 nF
C215 --
C216 5 nF
C217 15 nF
C218 2 μF
C219 100 nF
C220 2 μF
C221 100 nF
C222 --
C223 100 nF
C224 10 nF
C226 2.2 nF
C228 10 nF
C229 100 nF
C230 10 nF
C231 2 μF
C232 2.2 nF
C235 180 μF (2.5v)
C236 180 μF (2.5v)
C237 10 nF
C239 10 nF
C240 10 μF
C241 10 nF
C242 11 μF
C245 1 μF
C246 150 μF
C247 10 nF
C248 10 nF
C249 11 μF
C251 1 μF
C252 1 μF
C253 11 μF
C254 11 μF
C255 120 μF (10v)
C256 10 nF
C257 10 nF
C258 11 μF
C259 180 μF (2.5v)
C260 180 μF (2.5v)
C261 10 nF
C262 10 nF
C263 100 nF
C264 100 nF
C265 5 μF
C266 5 μF
C267 200 pF
C268 10 nF
C269 --
C270 15 nF
C271 10 nF
C272 680 pF
C273 100 nF
C274 5 nF
C276 --
C277 7 nF
C278 --
C279 5 nF
C280 2.2 nF
C281 10 nF
C283 10 nF
C286 10.5 nF
C287 100 nF
C288 100 nF
C290 1 μF
C291 1 μF
C292 1 μF
C293 10 nF
C294 100 nF
C296 5 μF
C297 5 μF
C300 150 μF
C301 10 nF
C302 10 nF
C304 10 nF
C306 10 nF
C308 100 nF
C309 --
C311 2.2 nF
C316 2 μF
C321 1 μF
C324 22 μF
C326 10 nF
C328 10 nF
C333 350 pF
C335 --
C340 20 pF
C341 20 pF
C342 5 μF
C343 5 μF
C344 100 nF
C345 100 nF
C346 100 nF
C347 100 nF
C502 10 nF
C526 10 nF
C529 10 nF
C533 10 nF
C534 1 μF
C536 1 μF
C601 1 μF
C602 1 μF
C605 1 μF
C608 1 μF
C705 10 nF
C706 2.2 nF
C707 10 nF
C708 2.2 nF
C710 1 μF
C801 100 nF
C802 10 nF
C809 10 nF
C810 10 nF
C814 100 nF
C815 10 nF
C816 2.2 nF
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

Blargaman was kind enough to measure all the capacitors and resistors on the RVL-40 board. Here are his measurements:

R1 1.125k Ω
R2 2.7k Ω
R3 2.3 Ω
R6 30 Ω
R7 70 Ω
R8 270 Ω
R11 60 Ω
R12 60 Ω
R13 120 Ω
R14 40 Ω
R15 100 Ω
R19 10k Ω
R21 4.7k Ω
R22 10k Ω
R23 270k Ω
R24 10k Ω
R28 1k Ω
R29 400 Ω
R35 1.2k Ω
R36 10k Ω
R37 75 Ω
R38 10k Ω
R39 75 Ω
R40 75 Ω
R41 1k Ω
R42 8.2k Ω
R44 75 Ω
R47 5.6k Ω
R49 393 Ω
R50 8.2k Ω
R51 470k Ω
R52 10k Ω
R55 10k Ω
R56 10k Ω
R57 10k Ω
R58 10k Ω
R59 10k Ω
R60 1k Ω
R61 220 Ω
R62 4.7k Ω
R63 1k Ω
R64 1k Ω
R65 4.7k Ω
R70 12k Ω
R71 1k Ω
R82 11k Ω
R83 3.3k Ω
R84 11k Ω
R85 33k Ω
R88 0.50 Ω
R89 0.50 Ω
R91 0.50 Ω
R92 0.50 Ω
R94 11k Ω
R95 0.50 Ω
R96 39k Ω
R97 18k Ω/1.8k Ω
R99 10k Ω
R100 5.1 Ω
R102 5.1 Ω
R104 20k Ω
R105 5.1 Ω
R106 5.1 Ω
R107 5.1 Ω
R108 20k Ω
R110 15k Ω
R111 33k Ω
R112 5.1 Ω
R113 10k Ω
R114 5.1 Ω
R115 10k Ω
R117 11k Ω
R118 0.50 Ω
R119 13k Ω/1.3k Ω
R120 12k Ω
R122 0.66 Ω
R123 0.50 Ω
R124 0.50 Ω
R125 0.66 Ω
R126 0.50 Ω
R127 0.50 Ω
R128 0.66 Ω
R129 0.50 Ω
R130 11k Ω
R131 56k Ω
R132 11k Ω
R133 4.7k Ω
R134 1.5k Ω
R135 47k Ω
R137 47k Ω
R138 470k Ω
R139 119k Ω
R140 10k Ω
R141 10k Ω
R142 50.6k Ω
R143 270k Ω
R150 --
R151 10.5k Ω
R152 10k Ω
R153 0.5 Ω
R154 555k Ω
R160 270k Ω
R161 22 Ω
R162 22 Ω
R164 39 Ω (1W)
R166 1k Ω
R167 30 Ω
R168 70 Ω
R174 --
R186 100 Ω
R187 100 Ω
R188 1.5k Ω
R191 --
R192 993k Ω
R193 1k Ω
R200 47k Ω
R201 47k Ω
R212 100 Ω
R213 100 Ω
RA1 750 Ω
RA9 1k Ω
RA10 16.7 Ω
RA11 16.7 Ω
RA14 3.3k Ω
RA15 10k Ω
RA16 10k Ω
RA17 10k Ω
RA18 10k Ω
RA19 10k Ω
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

gman said:
Wow this is turning out really impressive so far. Question: So ideally for a portable Wii, would it have an internal gamecube controller or like a wii classic controller? Would you still need the wiimote for navigating the system? How would the controls work exactly is what I'm wondering.

Hey gman! Love your work. Thanks!
This is the most common question I am asked about the wii. I haven't done a good job at explaining the obsolescence of the wiimote in the past, so instead I decided to make a video that explains it. ...
The video has also been posted in the first post to help clear that up off the bat from now on.

As for a portable itself, the plan would be to use an internal gamecube controller, just like gamecube portables, and keep the bluetooth dongle, so wii remotes (and other bt controllers) can be used if desired. The cubes controller can be used for all gamecube games, some wii games, (almost?) all virtual console games, and all emulators/homebrew. The goal is to make essentially a super-upgraded gamecube. Who knows though, maybe other modders could come up with new innovations to change that
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

(To bentomo) Have you tried just hooking 5v directly to the bluetooth module, or do you think that would cause problems?
Re: Dyxlesci's Wii Super Thread

I have thought of trying that but I want to know more about the internal layers first before I start hooking up more voltages. I tried attaching 5v directly to the USB 5v pin but the fat system still didn't seem to mount.

Honestly I didn't do that much testing with it. But the 5v line is only visible on two spots on the front and back and I'm waiting for some new REV4 boards to arrive so that I can sand them and get some good sands. There's too much copper missing from the scans that are hosted now.