Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Actually I haven't quite worked out how I'm going to get exactly 4.6v. I was using my adjustable lab supply to provide the correct voltage when I made the video. I'll probably use another PTH08080 (I'll have to figure out the correct resistors to use), which seems like a bit of a waste to me but meh. I originally planned to just use a 500k resistor on the L7805 I was using to get 5v, the 500k resistor knocks the voltage (4.85v) down to exactly 4.6v BUT since the analog stick links the voltage line to ground this ended up not working as it just drops the voltage to 0 when connected.
As for your second question I've actually learned alot with this handheld as far as the analog sticks/linear pots go. I'm not sure if the official controller works the same way as these knockoffs but I'm pretty sure it does.
What these controllers care about is not resistance values but voltage differences. I found out with the linear pots for the triggers that fully depressed (up) gives the controller 0v on the dataline, when fully depressed (down) it gives the controller 3.3v on the dataline.
So what I did was just connect the pots normally except that I did not provide the 3.3v input voltage on the pot. I hot glued the pots so that they are all the way up (10k) and then connected my tact switches to 3.3v and to the dataline on the pot to provide the 3.3v it wants to get the full signal when the trigger is fully depressed (i can make a schematic if people are confused).
The analog sticks work the same exact way. When you turn the GC on the controller puts a certain amount of voltage through the datalines of the pots on the analog stick and that is how it figures its "0 point". Which is why if you turn the system on with the analog stick depressed in any direction, then let it go. It will seemingly go crazy.
Anyway, what it amounts to is that the GC cares about the voltage difference the pots create after system boot. Depending on which way you tilt the stick it provides more or less voltage on the dataline of that pot which is what tells the GC which way to send your character or space ship or whatever.
Consequently, this is why the PSP sticks and probably the 3DS sticks will never give the "true" full range of a normal analog. They just don't provide enough of a resistance range to match that of a normal analog, though they do provide enough that with a bit of tweaking will work though. But never the full range. Just fire up a homebrew GC pad tester program to see what I'm talking about.
So, now that I've gotten all that out let me share another little discovery I've run into with this little build. You know that Pin 29 from the Wiikey that we connect to ground to drive it low? It seems that enough voltage is given off from this line to introduce a "ground loop" which will give interference on the audio/video lines. In some cases worse than others. So It looks like we should figure out some safe resistor value for that line that goes to ground to avoid interference on other important lines, such as the audio and video ones. I've not gotten that far yet though.
After I get the above mentioned stuff worked out I'll be all ready to close this beast up, it looks like I may have to do a bit of dremeling in certain spots to get it to close though, only because of my placement of certain things. Lets hope it all goes well.
As always, progress as I make it.
Altough my one will have batteries in it 
. Good catch Zen, having a little trouble still getting the full range on those analogs. The main stick was inverted when I made that little video ><;
