super mario's first ps2 portable

Lightning said:
I love the use of the original heatsink!!! how are you planning to secure it? (this is something I still can't figure out)

I'm just going to glue it in place lol hopefully it works the fan is very loud I was going to use a different one but idk yet
 
Lightning said:
super small, quiet, runs on 5 volts so you'll have to find another power source than the orignal, otherwise it'll buzz like a rattle snake and burn out in under a week

this is one that's currently on sale, but may not be in the future
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fans-hom ... 73819.html
I have one kinda like that but the ps2 felt a lil hot but I'm sure I can live with the noise lol.

And my left speaker sounds a lil weird ?
 
UPDATE 3/13/15 I glued the fan in place solder the controller and buttons all work great next thing left is the analogs.

image.jpg4_4.jpg


image.jpg1_5.jpg


image.jpg2_5.jpg


image.jpg3_5.jpg
 
UPDATE 3/19/15 for anyone who cares I recieved the needed parts to complete my portable and then I run out of solder lol so I wait another day to go to radioshack finally I get back to soldering I connected my broken controller and after testing it the left analog doesn't work so Ill have to desolder that control including all buttons then solder the new control tonight hopefully it work will add photos tomorrow
 
Lightning said:
I've been waiting to hear what happened with those analog sticks, how is the overall functionality of the system though? minus the sticks obviously

PS, if they're giving you that much trouble with the soldering, why don't you consider these options

more expensive, but done for you:
http://www.adafruit.com/products/512

less expensive, and definitely DIY lol:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9110
The first link how would I wire those up to the control?

My ps2 works great all buttons work audio amp works fixed the right speaker fan works everthing works except for analogs and that's because my control is broken but I have a new control that ima wire it up tonight.
 
its gonna depend on the orientation of the sticks as they sat in the original controller, that way it'll still know up from down and so forth. you can look at the traces on the PCB, they tell us a lot, for instance, that the X, Y, and SEL button all use the same power source, which I'm willing to bet is the 3.3 volt pin. it also tells us which points to attach our wires to.
 
Lightning said:
its gonna depend on the orientation of the sticks as they sat in the original controller, that way it'll still know up from down and so forth. you can look at the traces on the PCB, they tell us a lot, for instance, that the X, Y, and SEL button all use the same power source, which I'm willing to bet is the 3.3 volt pin. it also tells us which points to attach our wires to.
Lol I need to start learning more about this stuff
 
well you know what I'd do (and probably gonna do when I reach that phase) is order a couple of those boards (they're really kinda stupid cheap!!! lol), they have some pretty nice mounting holes, which you could mount in using upturned screws mounted to the inside of the case, that way they'll be removable (for the undoubtedly countless adjustments you'll need to make), and if you wanted to get really fancy (again, I'm probably gonna do this), use breakaway headers to connect the boards (also removable), they already have the holes, so you might at well use them, and breakaway headers are super cheap
 
Lightning said:
well you know what I'd do (and probably gonna do when I reach that phase) is order a couple of those boards (they're really kinda stupid cheap!!! lol), they have some pretty nice mounting holes, which you could mount in using upturned screws mounted to the inside of the case, that way they'll be removable (for the undoubtedly countless adjustments you'll need to make), and if you wanted to get really fancy (again, I'm probably gonna do this), use breakaway headers to connect the boards (also removable), they already have the holes, so you might at well use them, and breakaway headers are super cheap
I always wanted to order some but thought they were only for the arduino so I never got them I will now
 
Super mario said:
Lol I need to start learning more about this stuff

use the 3D view of the SparkFun board, it shows the top and bottom traces.

Seriously man, just spend a few hours staring at the board.... eventually it'll all make sense (its honest to goodness what I do when I do the 79001 research)

"Innovation is taking two things that already exist and putting them together in a new way."
Tom Freston
 
Lightning said:
Super mario said:
Lol I need to start learning more about this stuff

use the 3D view of the SparkFun board, it shows the top and bottom traces.

Seriously man, just spend a few hours staring at the board.... eventually it'll all make sense (its honest to goodness what I do when I do the 79001 research)

"Innovation is taking two things that already exist and putting them together in a new way."
Tom Freston
I sure will and thanks for the help I'll post pics tomorrow of the portable
 
Super mario said:
I always wanted to order some but thought they were only for the arduino so I never got them I will now

there is an outside chance that the POT values of the X and Y axis vary a little from device to device, but if this is a huge concern, and you'd simply prefer to use the original sticks, you can remove them from the original controller board and put them in either of the breakout boards I linked, and heck probably any other ones you could find, as the footprint is the exact same!!
 
Lightning said:
Super mario said:
I always wanted to order some but thought they were only for the arduino so I never got them I will now

there is an outside chance that the POT values of the X and Y axis vary a little from device to device, but if this is a huge concern, and you'd simply prefer to use the original sticks, you can remove them from the original controller board and put them in either of the breakout boards I linked, and heck probably any other ones you could find, as the footprint is the exact same!!
Awesome thanks
 
I soldered my new third party control when I turn the ps2 on it goes straight to the modchips menu when I remove the green cable that goes connected to the ps2 control port it boots to the regular menu but the menu is like I'm holding the down button I disconnect the green wire the menu stays still

any idea of what might be causing this ?
 
the third party board throws the resistor values out of balance, the epicenter, and ultimate effect evidently being the triangle and circle buttons constantly being sensed by the IC, hence the Matrix Infinity screen

also, it is difficult to understand your questions without punctuation, please make more use of commas to give your sentences clearer structure
 
Lightning said:
the third party board throws the resistor values out of balance, the epicenter, and ultimate effect evidently being the triangle and circle buttons constantly being sensed by the IC, hence the Matrix Infinity screen

also, it is difficult to understand your questions without punctuation, please make more use of commas to give your sentences clearer structure
And how should I fix this problem ?

And I'll fix my sentences lol.
 
Here are some pictures of my controller. This control does not have the shield like the original control could that be a problem.

image.jpg1_6.jpg


image.jpg2_6.jpg
 
its great to finally see what you were talking about with that controller!! if you were talking about RF shielding, or rather a lack there of, that ship sailed in the portable community long long ago. the best you can do is try to be mindful of proximity, but really the only thing that will suffer for it will be video signals, which is exactly why I use the HDMI, digital doesnt really have that problem lol
 
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