Where to buy wires?

Zykxi

Member
Hi. I'm new here.

Next summer, a couple of my friends and I are going to start building a portable. One of my friends already owns a soldering iron, a dremel, and as a plus, owns a 3d printer. I know exactly what console I'm going to use, what screen, what battery, etc. But I need to know where can I buy wires? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but with my skimming through google search results, I couldn't find anything.

Thanks,
Zykxi.
 
Hey :) I finished my first gamecube portable a couple months back and am gearing up to do a wii portable soon once all the parts come in.

For my GCP I used wires from a broken original Xbox controller I had laying around, and also the wires from inside the gamecube controller I incorporated into it. Controllers have like six wires inside, but be aware that the Nintendo brand ones are curly and difficult to work with. I absolutely loved the ones from that 3rd party Xbox controller though. They were extra long and straight while also very thin and flexible.

For some lines, you may want thicker wires if you're having issues, however I used almost entirely controller wires.

When it comes time to wire your screen, be sure and use shielded wire. You might consider using the wire from the original av cable. Also, when assembling everything, keep that wire away from the power regulator on your motherboard. I kept getting interference (lines on my screen) and couldn't figure out why until I moved it.

What exactly are you building? A gamecube can be run off of probably anywhere between 5v-12v using pth08080wah regulators, but only runs off of 12v if you keep the original one. I can't recommend a battery voltage without knowing what exactly you are powering with it :p.

For my batteries on the gamecube portable, I used a 12v Talentcell 6000 mAh battery. Your best bet is lithium ion batteries (Google 18650 cell). You have two main options:
1) Buy individual Panasonic 18650 cells, and a charge protection circuit, and a lithium ion smart charger, and a jack, and then make your own low battery indicator, and wire it up yourself. Not recommended unless you have experience.
2) Buy a premade battery pack. Mine needed to be 12v because I chose to keep the onboard regulators instead of building my own, which pretty much limited what batteries I could use. However, idk what console you are building. If it's a wii, you will need custom regulators, but can run it off of a 5v portable battery pack for phones, which really opens up a lot of options.

The reason there isn't a single guide out there for all portables is that every last one is completely different :p so if you have a specific question you need to give more specific information.

If you have any more questions, I'm happy to help :)
 
Sorry I was so cryptic. Im building a GameCube portable. Thanks for the help! I very much appreciate it, and I'll let you know when it starts!

Zykxi.
Sounds good :) I just remembered, if li ion batteries are too fat for some case-related reason, you can also try lithium polymer batteries. They're flat but large instead of fat and small.

Also, just as a reference, if you keep the disc drive instead of using a modchip, a 12v 6000mah battery lasts about 2h 30m. A modchip will cut way back on that power consumption though.
 
Hey :) I finished my first gamecube portable a couple months back and am gearing up to do a wii portable soon once all the parts come in.

For my GCP I used wires from a broken original Xbox controller I had laying around, and also the wires from inside the gamecube controller I incorporated into it. Controllers have like six wires inside, but be aware that the Nintendo brand ones are curly and difficult to work with. I absolutely loved the ones from that 3rd party Xbox controller though. They were extra long and straight while also very thin and flexible.

For some lines, you may want thicker wires if you're having issues, however I used almost entirely controller wires.

When it comes time to wire your screen, be sure and use shielded wire. You might consider using the wire from the original av cable. Also, when assembling everything, keep that wire away from the power regulator on your motherboard. I kept getting interference (lines on my screen) and couldn't figure out why until I moved it.

What exactly are you building? A gamecube can be run off of probably anywhere between 5v-12v using pth08080wah regulators, but only runs off of 12v if you keep the original one. I can't recommend a battery voltage without knowing what exactly you are powering with it :p.

For my batteries on the gamecube portable, I used a 12v Talentcell 6000 mAh battery. Your best bet is lithium ion batteries (Google 18650 cell). You have two main options:
1) Buy individual Panasonic 18650 cells, and a charge protection circuit, and a lithium ion smart charger, and a jack, and then make your own low battery indicator, and wire it up yourself. Not recommended unless you have experience.
2) Buy a premade battery pack. Mine needed to be 12v because I chose to keep the onboard regulators instead of building my own, which pretty much limited what batteries I could use. However, idk what console you are building. If it's a wii, you will need custom regulators, but can run it off of a 5v portable battery pack for phones, which really opens up a lot of options.

The reason there isn't a single guide out there for all portables is that every last one is completely different :p so if you have a specific question you need to give more specific information.

If you have any more questions, I'm happy to help :)

Sorry I was so cryptic. Im building a GameCube portable. But would it be possible to run it on 4 AA rechargable batteries? That would have 6v all together with 9,600 mAh total. I'm just trying to think inexpensive here. This is my first portable, after all! Thanks for the help! I very much appreciate it, and I'll let you know when it starts! Btw, I'm using a DOL-101.

Zykxi.
 
So the way batteries work is like this.

Let's say that you have 4 AA batteries. Each one is 1.5v with a 2.4 amp capacity.
If you connect them all up, you can do it two different ways. (In series or in parallel).

If you wire the batteries in series (meaning end to end like this)
-+-+-+-+
You add the voltages but the amperage stays the same. So four AAs in series is the same as a 6v 2.4A battery.

If you wire them in parallel
(Meaning side to side, like this)
++++
- - - -
Then you add the amperage but keep the voltage. So in this example, you would end up with the equivalent of a 1.5v 9.6A battery.

The amperage isn't the only thing that determines battery life. Watts is amps times volts, and is what really matters in figuring out what battery you want. Let's say something draws about 10 watts. It would last one hour on EITHER a 1v 10A battery or a 10v 1A battery or a 5v 2A battery.

So you can't run the gamecube on 1.5v, but you can run it on 6v using a custom regulator. So you would need to put them in series to get to 6v. That means it is being powered off of a 6v 2.4A battery. 6x2.4= 14.4 Watts. I would estimate that would power your gamecube for about an hour, if you used a wasp fusion and had a smallish screen.

My particular gamecube uses the disc drive so is a power hog, but it draws 2A at 12v, meaning it is 24 Watts. So your battery pack would power my gcp for just over half an hour.

I recommend a premade battery pack that uses lithium ion 18650 cells, because each one is 3.7v, 3.3A, which is only slightly less than all four of your AAs. I strongly recommend you get a pack that has at least 3 18650 cells unless you really don't care at all about battery life.

As to that website you linked, I didn't mean pay a website to build you one, I meant something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3t4pybMJ1Q0WJ

If you don't want it to run off of 12v, be prepared for it to draw more amps. The only reason you would run it off of less than 12v is to save space inside your case by having less battery capacity or to let you trim off the on board regulator and replace it.

Also, I don't know much about AA specs, but they need to be able to output a high enough voltage at once to support the gc. If they can only put out 1 A at a time for example, you definitely can't use them.

However, you mentioned that this is a dol101 board, which to my knowledge is really only used because the regulator is already on board, making it simpler. If you don't want to make your own custom regulators (expensive and unnecessary unless you're really pushing modding boundaries), you're going to need a 12v battery.

I just dropped $40 just on regulators and related parts for my wii portable. For gamecube, they really aren't necessary unless you want tiny battery life. (Ex: to get to 12v, you need three 18650s, but if you only have room for two batteries in your case, you could make custom regulators and run it off 7.4v instead. It'll still only last 2/3 as long as the three batteries, but it makes it more convenient in some cases.)
 
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So the way batteries work is like this.

Let's say that you have 4 AA batteries. Each one is 1.5v with a 2.4 amp capacity.
If you connect them all up, you can do it two different ways. (In series or in parallel).

If you wire the batteries in series (meaning end to end like this)
-+-+-+-+
You add the voltages but the amperage stays the same. So four AAs in series is the same as a 6v 2.4A battery.

If you wire them in parallel
(Meaning side to side, like this)
++++
- - - -
Then you add the amperage but keep the voltage. So in this example, you would end up with the equivalent of a 1.5v 9.6A battery.

The amperage isn't the only thing that determines battery life. Watts is amps times volts, and is what really matters in figuring out what battery you want. Let's say something draws about 10 watts. It would last one hour on EITHER a 1v 10A battery or a 10v 1A battery or a 5v 2A battery.

So you can't run the gamecube on 1.5v, but you can run it on 6v using a custom regulator. So you would need to put them in series to get to 6v. That means it is being powered off of a 6v 2.4A battery. 6x2.4= 14.4 Watts. I would estimate that would power your gamecube for about an hour, if you used a wasp fusion and had a smallish screen.

My particular gamecube uses the disc drive so is a power hog, but it draws 2A at 12v, meaning it is 24 Watts. So your battery pack would power my gcp for just over half an hour.

I recommend a premade battery pack that uses lithium ion 18650 cells, because each one is 3.7v, 3.3A, which is only slightly less than all four of your AAs. I strongly recommend you get a pack that has at least 3 18650 cells unless you really don't care at all about battery life.

As to that website you linked, I didn't mean pay a website to build you one, I meant something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3t4pybMJ1Q0WJ

If you don't want it to run off of 12v, be prepared for it to draw more amps. The only reason you would run it off of less than 12v is to save space inside your case by having less battery capacity or to let you trim off the on board regulator and replace it.

Also, I don't know much about AA specs, but they need to be able to output a high enough voltage at once to support the gc. If they can only put out 1 A at a time for example, you definitely can't use them.

However, you mentioned that this is a dol101 board, which to my knowledge is really only used because the regulator is already on board, making it simpler. If you don't want to make your own custom regulators (expensive and unnecessary unless you're really pushing modding boundaries), you're going to need a 12v battery.

I just dropped $40 just on regulators and related parts for my wii portable. For gamecube, they really aren't necessary unless you want tiny battery life. (Ex: to get to 12v, you need three 18650s, but if you only have room for two batteries in your case, you could make custom regulators and run it off 7.4v instead. It'll still only last 2/3 as long as the three batteries, but it makes it more convenient in some cases.)
Thanks!
 
Just a sidenote:
You might consider a wii portable instead. They draw much less power, output better quality picture, can play wii games, gamecube games, plus a bunch of retro titles. It can also be trimmed small, and connect to wifi to watch Netflix etc. There is custom firmware called Portablize Mii that means you don't need a wiimote to navigate the menu.

If I had known all this before making my gcp, I definitely would've made a wiip instead. Oh well, I'm making one now. There is a lot of good info on wii portablizing on Bitbuilt. GMan managed to fit a couple into original Gameboy shells. That's how small they can get.

One last thing, make sure that you really want to share it with your friends. Portables generally cost in the $300 range to make, so it's like buying any other next gen console to share with your friends. It would suck to put a bunch of work and money and time into something and then have somebody take it away when they moved or you had a fight or somebody went to college, etc. Just be sure that's what your want :)
 
Just a sidenote:
You might consider a wii portable instead. They draw much less power, output better quality picture, can play wii games, gamecube games, plus a bunch of retro titles. It can also be trimmed small, and connect to wifi to watch Netflix etc. There is custom firmware called Portablize Mii that means you don't need a wiimote to navigate the menu.

If I had known all this before making my gcp, I definitely would've made a wiip instead. Oh well, I'm making one now. There is a lot of good info on wii portablizing on Bitbuilt. GMan managed to fit a couple into original Gameboy shells. That's how small they can get.
I'm going to get a notebook and start taking notes. Lol. Thanks again!
 
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