The Printed-Cube? (working title)

[Fluxedo]

I'm pretty dead seat on the batteries and style. The batteries get me the best bang for my buck size wise which is really important to me. the Hinged format will also make it extremely easy to set down and a table and play multi player. Adding to this, it will be able to slip and out of a bag or be moved around with no scratches on the screen or messing up the buttons. It also means I could include a secondary fan and be able to close it up and plug it into a TV.

 

[RedmagnusX]

I probably should have specified, the top half with the screen is still a huge WIP. I'm going to be adjusting and stuff as time goes on and I find the right hinges and I'm obviously going to have a wire running up to the top. As for the analogs, I'm going to be some steel series analogs dl that are sunk into the case a bit so they'll only be a MM or so taller than slider would be and the screen will be sunk into the top part to to combat this. I was also going to have the heatsink a few MM away from the controller portion so that they were not directly touching so the heat would be even spread. I was also considering having secondary fans if it's still too warm. I also have draw out several diagram of where everything will be placed on paper and it will all fit. I just didn't upload any because they didn't seem necessary and they're pretty ugly. The only point of yours that I haven't really prepared for was the batteries acting as a heatsink. I was considering having a piece of material that will prevent heat transfer between the board and the batteries.

Ah I see, I wasn't aware of it being a work in progress. I got the impression that it was a final design given the way it was presented.

I understand that you're going to have wires running to the top, as you would have to in order for the unit to function, but my point was that your design does not have an internal method of doing so. Personally, I wouldn't want wires being exposed, so I would design and method of running the wires internally.

Rather than fussing with the heat sink spacing and adding more fans (which will draw power and take up unnecessary space) , why not just flip the board over? It's the tried and true method, so why try to reinvent the wheel?

I'm just trying to be helpful. I hope your project goes well.

 

[Fluxedo]

Yeah I was considering that. Bu my thoughts were that that's where my fingers would wrap around the back of the unit so it would prevent air flow and be hot to the touch. And, if I'm to set it down properly, the fan would be pressed up against the surface. I maybe be able to rotate the board though so that the intake is at the top of the back of the case.

 

[RedmagnusX]

Yeah I was considering that. Bu my thoughts were that that's where my fingers would wrap around the back of the unit so it would prevent air flow and be hot to the touch. And, if I'm to set it down properly, the fan would be pressed up against the surface. I maybe be able to rotate the board though so that the intake is at the top of the back of the case.

It would be fine actually. Just give yourself a couple millimeters of space and it will not be a problem. I've done it that way in all seven of the portable Gamecubes that I've built and I can say that heat hasn't been an issue. My primary concern about your placement is that heat rises, therefore you're going to get heat on the controller face no matter what. If you want to save some space, perhaps you can cut two of the battery cells out and keep the MAH lower. It will cut down battery life, but it will really give you a ton of flexibility.

 

[dark_samus]

For comfort why not put the GameCube board in the back of the screen... That would give you more room on the bottom and it would be more comfortable to hold and the heat could rise out of vents on the top

 

[Fluxedo]

YOOOOO I didn't even think about that... Dark_samus with the ideas!!!

 

[naimlessone]

It could also be good if you plan on having external hook ups to attach to a tv with the mobo in the top of the screen. Gotta get the hinge part pretty sold though, with the amount of extra weight that would hold.

 

[RedmagnusX]

For comfort why not put the GameCube board in the back of the screen... That would give you more room on the bottom and it would be more comfortable to hold and the heat could rise out of vents on the top

That could make the unit top heavy and put unnecessary stress on the hinge.

 

[Fluxedo]

Maybe more stress on the hinges but if I had 6 18650s in the bottom I don't see it being top heavy. It would probably be the only thing located in the top half other than the screen too. I think you also underestimate the quality of hinges that exist. Both of ShockSlayer's ZNWiis used basic hinges from Lowes and they didn't seem to have issues.

 

[gman]

You can get hinges from mcmaster. I used them for my wii laptop and they are very strong and easy to use. http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/2952/=z84t4z i used part number: 1791A4

 

[dark_samus]

YOOOOO I didn't even think about that... Dark_samus with the ideas!!!

also that could give you some space to set the analog sticks in a depression and would make it fold perfectly (just make sure you give them full range and make sure it'll be comfortable... Split the design into a net and get it printed on some cardstock or something, fold it up before you print and make sure its comfortable and sturdy)

 

[RedmagnusX]

Maybe more stress on the hinges but if I had 6 18650s in the bottom I don't see it being top heavy. It would probably be the only thing located in the top half other than the screen too. I think you also underestimate the quality of hinges that exist. Both of ShockSlayer's ZNWiis used basic hinges from Lowes and they didn't seem to have issues.

You're making assumptions... I know darn well how high quality hinges can be, that's not the issue. The issue is that you would have to find hinges that won't break the printed plastic. The 3d printed plastic is your limiting factor, if you have to use a hinge with a high torque rating in order to support the weight at the top it will wear down and break the plastic after a while. Neither of Shock Slayer's znwiis were 3d printed either. I just can't understand why you are being so argumentative...

Basically, if you're going that route make your shell walls thicker, that's all I'm saying.

Edit: Also, maybe top heavy wasn't the right phrase. What I meant was that it will be uncomfortable to hold after a while due to the additional weight at the top. But perhaps that won't be an issue due to the 6 cells you're going to use.

 

[dark_samus]

Well assuming he makes the case thick enough and if he acetone treats it or does the heat gun trick to melt the layers together then I really don't see a problem with the strength of the 3d print

 

[RedmagnusX]

Well assuming he makes the case thick enough and if he acetone treats it or does the heat gun trick to melt the layers together then I really don't see a problem with the strength of the 3d print

I've done both acetone treatments and heat gun treatments (both of which are done more for cosmetic reasons) and the plastic will still crack at the layers under stress. Making a thicker wall with 100% infill is the only way to prevent breakage.

 

[dark_samus]

Well assuming he makes the case thick enough and if he acetone treats it or does the heat gun trick to melt the layers together then I really don't see a problem with the strength of the 3d print

I've done both acetone treatments and heat gun treatments (both of which are done more for cosmetic reasons) and the plastic will still crack at the layers under stress. Making a thicker wall with 100% infill is the only way to prevent breakage.

Well of course it'll still crack under stress... But it'll handle a bit more before cracking, yes they're usually done for cosmetics but that doesn't change the fact that it does provide a bit of extra strength, I also did mention thick walls (you're right about the 100% infill that's needed everywhere on the case) I wasn't saying "omg melt the layers together and it'll solve everything!" (Lmao) I was mainly saying it'll provide some extra strength and help

 

[Fluxedo]

The walls are 2mm and I'm already planning on making them 100% filled in. 2mm seems like it would be enough but should I add more?

 

[dark_samus]

The walls are 2mm and I'm already planning on making them 100% filled in. 2mm seems like it would be enough but should I add more?

Yeah, 4 mm at least... 3d printed plastic isn't very strong

 

[RedmagnusX]

Well assuming he makes the case thick enough and if he acetone treats it or does the heat gun trick to melt the layers together then I really don't see a problem with the strength of the 3d print

I've done both acetone treatments and heat gun treatments (both of which are done more for cosmetic reasons) and the plastic will still crack at the layers under stress. Making a thicker wall with 100% infill is the only way to prevent breakage.

Well of course it'll still crack under stress... But it'll handle a bit more before cracking, yes they're usually done for cosmetics but that doesn't change the fact that it does provide a bit of extra strength, I also did mention thick walls (you're right about the 100% infill that's needed everywhere on the case) I wasn't saying "omg melt the layers together and it'll solve everything!" (Lmao) I was mainly saying it'll provide some extra strength and help

I didn't take it that way at all. Acetone baths and heat treatment certainly wouldn't hurt. I'll be honest, I've already solved the hinge issue and I'm trying to point everyone in this thread in the right direction without outright telling them how to do it. In fact, you'll be seeing a new thread from me soon in finished projects in the next couple of days.

2mm isn't thick enough for hinges. I would go no less than 4.

 

[RedmagnusX]

Looks like I got ninja'd. LOL

 

[dark_samus]

Looks like I got ninja'd. LOL

XD