ShockSlayer
Probably SS
You know, you could've removed the screen cover. 
The afternoon projects thread
- Thread starter Basement_Modder
- Start date
vskid3
Well-Known Member
Upgraded the CPU in my ASUS G60VX laptop today. It came with a C2D P7450, 2.13GHz, 3MB L2. I bought a Dell Latitude E6400 and swapped with its C2D T9600, 2.8GHz, 6MB L2. Took my Windows Experience Score for the CPU from 5.7 to 6.4 (6.5 when I use my laptop's turbo mode to get it to 3GHz). Dell laptop still lives on with the slower CPU.
bentendo64
Active Member
I built this in 09, its an NES put into a cardboard box 
with some tape and sharpie to go along with that
Edit: haha, sorry I forgot to mention its a noac of sorts
Here's a pic of the inside:
with some tape and sharpie to go along with that
Edit: haha, sorry I forgot to mention its a noac of sorts
Here's a pic of the inside:
ubernoober1477
Member
Okay, maybe some of you remember my weed whacker-powered bike. It's biggest flaw was that there was no clutch. Well, after the brackets holding the motor on the bike started to get loose to the point where it'd no longer work, I had a good excuse to rebuild the mounts with a clutch.
What I did was have one side pivot with a bungee cord to pull the motor up. I re-attached the pedals, cut the main sprocket in half, and attached one half to the pedals and the other to the motor. I then cut the original chain I had saved from it and used that to connect the two sprocket halves. Check out the pictures, it'll make much more sense.
One half of the sprocket, with the chain attached:
The other half on the motor. When the pedal is pushed down, the chain pulls the motor down onto the tire.
Also, since I get so much leverage with this setup, the peg gets much more grip. I can start it by rolling down a small hill and tapping the motor onto the tire.
What I did was have one side pivot with a bungee cord to pull the motor up. I re-attached the pedals, cut the main sprocket in half, and attached one half to the pedals and the other to the motor. I then cut the original chain I had saved from it and used that to connect the two sprocket halves. Check out the pictures, it'll make much more sense.
One half of the sprocket, with the chain attached:
The other half on the motor. When the pedal is pushed down, the chain pulls the motor down onto the tire.
Also, since I get so much leverage with this setup, the peg gets much more grip. I can start it by rolling down a small hill and tapping the motor onto the tire.
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
You still using silly N64 heatsink?
Oh, Mario... <3
SS
Oh, Mario... <3
SS
I knooow.ShockSlayer said:
But I don't have anything else. And besides, it works, so why not? 
Tchay - You just gotta belieeeeve
vskid - The fans definitely help, especially when the bike's not moving. When it is going, yes, there is airflow and it keeps the engine pretty cool. The fans just help.
ttsgeb - I should add a super ghetto speaker system to ensure maximum redneck-ness.
I think you should make a pulsejet addon. CRAZY loud, and high speed. Would make a sweet turbo boost, using a mini propane tank.
XCVG
ModRetro Legend
Presenting... the ChocolateTinyISP!
Beauty/ugliness shot, for establishment purposes.
I made it into a little kit, just so I could pretend I was building a nice Adafruit one and not a homemade ghetto version. I had to buy tiny drill bits for this project. It was slow going, but I drilled most of the holes with a cordless drill, and even managed to not snap any bits.
This is why it's called the ChocolateTinyISP. I saw this box of chocolates and thought "hey, that would work great for an electronics project". So I bought it and decided to put an AVR programmer in it. I bought a flaxload of parts from Digi-key (which is awesome), including enough parts for 2-3 Uzebox clones and two USBTinyISPs. I've only built one so far, though. I built a DAPA cable but ended up using ArduinoISP to program the chip. You can sort of see the ghetto cable inside.
The insides of the ChocolateTinyISP. This is based on the V1 version of the USBTinyISP, with no buffer chip. It's my own board design, a single layer one that can be made easily at home. I can make files available if anyone wants them. It has only the six-pin header to save complexity. I bought crystals instead of resonators by accident, so I had to change that at the last minute, which is the main reason that half of the board is so cramped. I wanted mini USB to share cables with my Arduino, and I hand-wired the tiny little pins on the connector to holes on the board.
This device works and it works pretty well! I programmed an ATMega168 to be a minimal Arduino with it, and learned a lot about using AVRDUDE and the command line in the process. There was some trouble at first, but it turned out to be the cable. I gave up on ribbon cable and ghetto-rigged one out of what I believe is a joystick cable. It's nice and flexy and probably better anyway. If you want to get into AVR microcontrollers, I highly recommend you build or buy a USB based programmer like this one. It's really slick compared to a DAPA cable (which I never got working).
Beauty/ugliness shot, for establishment purposes.
I made it into a little kit, just so I could pretend I was building a nice Adafruit one and not a homemade ghetto version. I had to buy tiny drill bits for this project. It was slow going, but I drilled most of the holes with a cordless drill, and even managed to not snap any bits.
This is why it's called the ChocolateTinyISP. I saw this box of chocolates and thought "hey, that would work great for an electronics project". So I bought it and decided to put an AVR programmer in it. I bought a flaxload of parts from Digi-key (which is awesome), including enough parts for 2-3 Uzebox clones and two USBTinyISPs. I've only built one so far, though. I built a DAPA cable but ended up using ArduinoISP to program the chip. You can sort of see the ghetto cable inside.
The insides of the ChocolateTinyISP. This is based on the V1 version of the USBTinyISP, with no buffer chip. It's my own board design, a single layer one that can be made easily at home. I can make files available if anyone wants them. It has only the six-pin header to save complexity. I bought crystals instead of resonators by accident, so I had to change that at the last minute, which is the main reason that half of the board is so cramped. I wanted mini USB to share cables with my Arduino, and I hand-wired the tiny little pins on the connector to holes on the board.
This device works and it works pretty well! I programmed an ATMega168 to be a minimal Arduino with it, and learned a lot about using AVRDUDE and the command line in the process. There was some trouble at first, but it turned out to be the cable. I gave up on ribbon cable and ghetto-rigged one out of what I believe is a joystick cable. It's nice and flexy and probably better anyway. If you want to get into AVR microcontrollers, I highly recommend you build or buy a USB based programmer like this one. It's really slick compared to a DAPA cable (which I never got working).
There was this cover to an exit sign leaning against a white board in one of my classes at school. I told my friend I wanted it, so he went up and took it like a boss. I used a laptop diffuser panel, LEDs, and some diffusion sheets to make it light up.
I was going to make it just red, but my red LED's aren't that bright. So I made it rainbow.
The sign cover:
Diffuser panel with a reflective sheet behind it:
LED's all glued on with resistors:
And hanging over my door:
My camera kinda sucks, so the colors look washed out. They're pretty vibrant, though.
I used a laptop diffuser panel, LEDs, and some diffusion sheets to make it light up.I was going to make it just red, but my red LED's aren't that bright. So I made it rainbow.
The sign cover:
Diffuser panel with a reflective sheet behind it:
LED's all glued on with resistors:
And hanging over my door:
My camera kinda sucks, so the colors look washed out. They're pretty vibrant, though.
unicycler17
Well-Known Member
Tchay said:
