ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Ah, to press both. That's a pretty good idea too.
SS
Ah, to press both. That's a pretty good idea too.
SS
Fusion Micro(s) ~ Worklog
- Thread starter Ashen
- Start date
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Melee uses it for shield control and WW uses it for ducking/warcrawling, I believe.
SS
EDIT: I'm not quite sure though, I'll have to check it out for sure. Dunno if either of those games are important to you though, that's what really matters.
Melee uses it for shield control and WW uses it for ducking/warcrawling, I believe.
SS
EDIT: I'm not quite sure though, I'll have to check it out for sure. Dunno if either of those games are important to you though, that's what really matters.
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Luigi's Mansion PAL works. Even on ntsc consoles.
In all the games that use the analog triggers only luigi's mansion, mario sunshine, bomberman generation and driving games use it to it's full potential. Other games like windwaker use it as a button press instead on the L or R button itself. Why they did that I don't know but it's just the same as pushing a button. There is no difference if you push is further.
But let's be honest even in sunshine and driving games do you really bother with pushing the trigger half way?? All the games I have played I always press the tigger to the max. If luigi's mansion is the only game that you would really need it I can live with that...
Luigi's Mansion PAL works. Even on ntsc consoles.
In all the games that use the analog triggers only luigi's mansion, mario sunshine, bomberman generation and driving games use it to it's full potential. Other games like windwaker use it as a button press instead on the L or R button itself. Why they did that I don't know but it's just the same as pushing a button. There is no difference if you push is further.
But let's be honest even in sunshine and driving games do you really bother with pushing the trigger half way?? All the games I have played I always press the tigger to the max. If luigi's mansion is the only game that you would really need it I can live with that...
unicycler17
Well-Known Member
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
In mario sunshine, the resistor function makes you spray water, and the fully pressed click makes you stop and aim. If you only press the "click" down, you will aim without spraying.
I placed a mushy tact on top of my psp trigger just now, and pressed down. The trigger went down before the tact on top did, so I don't think SS first Idea would work unless you had the function of the buttons switched, or if you had a normal tact on the bottom, and a mushy on the top.
Personally, I think the best idea is to have a single button that pushes controls both trigger functions, like zenloc's idea. That would require the least modifiCASEion too.
In mario sunshine, the resistor function makes you spray water, and the fully pressed click makes you stop and aim. If you only press the "click" down, you will aim without spraying.
I placed a mushy tact on top of my psp trigger just now, and pressed down. The trigger went down before the tact on top did, so I don't think SS first Idea would work unless you had the function of the buttons switched, or if you had a normal tact on the bottom, and a mushy on the top.
Personally, I think the best idea is to have a single button that pushes controls both trigger functions, like zenloc's idea. That would require the least modifiCASEion too.
Tchay
Frequent Poster
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Maybe we need a list of games?
If we can be sure that the potentiometer is not needed then I would be VERY happy.
Games I would play on a GCP:
Zelda WW
Zelda TP
Zelda CE
Fzero
Melee
Metal Gear Solid
Beyond Good and Evil
RE4, RE: zero, RE remake
Pikmin 1,2
Metroid Prime 1,2
Mario Sunshine
Do ANY of the above games NEED the potentiometer??? Maybe I will do some testing for the games that I own. But It would be really nice if everyone could do tests and then post the results in a list.
Unless, Zenloc, you are positive that we could just use one tact switch to get by???
Maybe we need a list of games?
If we can be sure that the potentiometer is not needed then I would be VERY happy.
Games I would play on a GCP:
Zelda WW
Zelda TP
Zelda CE
Fzero
Melee
Metal Gear Solid
Beyond Good and Evil
RE4, RE: zero, RE remake
Pikmin 1,2
Metroid Prime 1,2
Mario Sunshine
Do ANY of the above games NEED the potentiometer??? Maybe I will do some testing for the games that I own. But It would be really nice if everyone could do tests and then post the results in a list.
Unless, Zenloc, you are positive that we could just use one tact switch to get by???
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Even still, NOT having the range of the pots will not "break" to many games. It'll be a minor inconvenience at most for things like luigi's mansion and the feature listed above. When going for something this small, there's gonna be some kind of trade off.
It may even be a nice feature for those of us who want a bit more challenge on these games we've already played through however many times already.
@ Tchay, I'm 99% sure none of the games you mentioned will be effected by not having the pots fully active. Though I'm not sure about the RE games, I've never been a big fan.
Even still, NOT having the range of the pots will not "break" to many games. It'll be a minor inconvenience at most for things like luigi's mansion and the feature listed above. When going for something this small, there's gonna be some kind of trade off.
It may even be a nice feature for those of us who want a bit more challenge on these games we've already played through however many times already.
@ Tchay, I'm 99% sure none of the games you mentioned will be effected by not having the pots fully active. Though I'm not sure about the RE games, I've never been a big fan.
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
The resistor line is the only line going to the chip however like you say there has to be 2 resistors otherwise the controller won't work properly.
One is the resistance when the buttons is not pressed (slider up) and the other is the resistance when the button is fully pressed (slider down).
so:
3v > resistor (not pushed value) > tact switch > resistor in series (pushed value)
As far as I know that should work. I have yet to test it myself. As for the values it might be slightly difference per controller. When I get round to it I'll also post my info.
The resistor line is the only line going to the chip however like you say there has to be 2 resistors otherwise the controller won't work properly.
One is the resistance when the buttons is not pressed (slider up) and the other is the resistance when the button is fully pressed (slider down).
so:
3v > resistor (not pushed value) > tact switch > resistor in series (pushed value)
As far as I know that should work. I have yet to test it myself. As for the values it might be slightly difference per controller. When I get round to it I'll also post my info.
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
Only just found out it might be wrong 
I just checked the resistance with a multimeter on a original controller and a gamecube wii classic knockoff.
between 3v and resistance line I get around 7k ohm when not pressed and 450 ohm when pressed. However it's the opposite between ground and resistance. That would mean wiring it like I said on with the 3v line is not possible as you can't reduce ohm's that way. Maybe wiring it to ground would be a better solution. I'm going to the shops tomorrow and get some resistors and play around with it.
I also have a trustpad wii classic controller which doesn't have analog shoulder buttons. I'll ahve a look inside and see how they did it. As for the classic knock off it was 5k ohm no pressed and 200 ohm when pressed. I doubt it'll make much of a difference but then again some controllers can be picky.
Only just found out it might be wrong I just checked the resistance with a multimeter on a original controller and a gamecube wii classic knockoff.between 3v and resistance line I get around 7k ohm when not pressed and 450 ohm when pressed. However it's the opposite between ground and resistance. That would mean wiring it like I said on with the 3v line is not possible as you can't reduce ohm's that way. Maybe wiring it to ground would be a better solution. I'm going to the shops tomorrow and get some resistors and play around with it.
I also have a trustpad wii classic controller which doesn't have analog shoulder buttons. I'll ahve a look inside and see how they did it. As for the classic knock off it was 5k ohm no pressed and 200 ohm when pressed. I doubt it'll make much of a difference but then again some controllers can be picky.
unicycler17
Well-Known Member
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
The way I wired it in my portable was I just left the pot intact, epoxied not pushed down, and then put a switch going between the two outside pins. I don't think theres any real need to remove the pot itself, since it doesn't take almost any room up.
The way I wired it in my portable was I just left the pot intact, epoxied not pushed down, and then put a switch going between the two outside pins. I don't think theres any real need to remove the pot itself, since it doesn't take almost any room up.
Tchay
Frequent Poster
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
lol this^ seems like the most simple solution. I don't know why I was thinking so hard about rewiring and other crap. The pot is so tiny that you could just relocate it somewhere in the case and then just use the L and R tacts for the shoulder buttons.
Any reason NOT to do it this way???
unicycler17 said:
lol this^ seems like the most simple solution. I don't know why I was thinking so hard about rewiring and other crap. The pot is so tiny that you could just relocate it somewhere in the case and then just use the L and R tacts for the shoulder buttons.
Any reason NOT to do it this way???
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
The way I had it in my head was to use a normally open/closed tact. Just like I use for the Wiikey eject switch. The "common" pin going to either voltage or ground (have to test what the controller wants). The "NC" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The "NO" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The resistances of course corresponding to whatever the values of "all the way up/all the way down" for that controller. If that makes sense....
Of course, if there's room for it unicyclers way works also.
The way I had it in my head was to use a normally open/closed tact. Just like I use for the Wiikey eject switch. The "common" pin going to either voltage or ground (have to test what the controller wants). The "NC" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The "NO" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The resistances of course corresponding to whatever the values of "all the way up/all the way down" for that controller. If that makes sense....
Of course, if there's room for it unicyclers way works also.
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
Re: Fusion Micro ~ Worklog
That works exactly the same way as using a resistor. So yeah you can do that if you have space for it. Ofcourse the point of this method is using it without the analog slider but he it works either way.
Edit: Ashen that was exactly the same thing I wa thinking... thnx for typing it so I don't have to bother
That works exactly the same way as using a resistor. So yeah you can do that if you have space for it. Ofcourse the point of this method is using it without the analog slider but he it works either way.
Edit: Ashen that was exactly the same thing I wa thinking... thnx for typing it so I don't have to bother
