First portable N64 WIP

[opinionatedman]

Hey everyone, I started this portable N64 a few weeks ago, thought it would be nice to come here and share, also to get help : ). First let me say that I have been here and at ben heck quite a bit getting wiring diagrams, learning new things, and overall getting new ideas, you have all helped me out a lot already, so thanks.

I am currently stuck at rewiring the N64 Cart slot. I tried taking pictures of the bottom to demonstrate how I had wired it up, but none of them turned out right, so I made a paint diagram.

Here are some pictures to show how far I have come.

And this is what I did (lazy way out, trying to salvage hard work after realizing I screwed up)

Now I have already desoldered everything, removed the hot glue, and put myself back at square one. After reading comments/questions on Bacteria's site about the wire used I figured I might have used the wrong gauge or type of wire.

Any help, tips, pointers, constructive criticism, etc are all welcome and appreciated, as I am a newbie when it comes to making portables.

The cartridge slot is about the only thing that is holding the project back, I have the batteries, the voltage regulator (TI part and wired up), a generic case to work with, bought a yobo controller so I can wire the gamecube joystick to it, and plenty of controllers to gut and tear apart for parts, and a screen.

I should note that I am not using a PSone screen, I have at least 5 spare dynex lcd's laying around I got for free, I am using one of them. The only thing that is strange about them is they are wide screens but they play video in standard, only using the center of the screen. It is not too much of a problem though because I can bury the unused part inside the case.

I am also curious as to how I would wire 2 speakers to the N64 audio?

I will update this as soon as anything comes along, hopefully I will be able to contribute some ideas to other N64 portable creators : )

 

[themadhacker]

those wires are very thick. Seems like they would be hard to fit all in the case.

 

[opinionatedman]

those wires are very thick. Seems like they would be hard to fit all in the case.

I didn't realize how thick they were altogether until I had most of it soldered, and after it didn't work I ended up desoldering it all and removing everything. Is there a specific gauge of wire that works best? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062641 or is 30 gauge too small?

This may seem like a silly question, but when it comes to transmitting data does it matter whether or not the wire has a solid core or multiple strands?

 

[blaze3927]

i've done a couple of cart slots and 30 awg is my fav option, ide is quicker because you can get it in a solid core but its not as easy to manipulate around the case (its a bit more rigid) 30 awg took about twice as long for me (i double checked every connection) but it is soo much better it just gave me more freedom of choice as to where to locate the cart slot

 

[Basement_Modder]

those wires are very thick. Seems like they would be hard to fit all in the case.

I didn't realize how thick they were altogether until I had most of it soldered, and after it didn't work I ended up desoldering it all and removing everything. Is there a specific gauge of wire that works best? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062641 or is 30 gauge too small?

This may seem like a silly question, but when it comes to transmitting data does it matter whether or not the wire has a solid core or multiple strands?

That right there is the best wire for modders ever.

Use it NAUGHOW! (but not for power.)

 

[βeta]

They don't look it, but they shouldn't be longer than 6" either. you run into trouble there too.

 

[ShockSlayer]

As someone once told me when I was a young portablizer:

"woah are those wires thick enough?"

Hey, are you the guy from youtube that I explained the cart slot holes thing to?

SS

 

[opinionatedman]

Hey, are you the guy from youtube that I explained the cart slot holes thing to?

No, but your cart slot relocation video is where I had learned in the comments that the 2 inner rows, that I had already soldered to, were just metal holes.

They don't look it, but they shouldn't be longer than 6" either. you run into trouble there too.

I will definitely keep that in mind, I will have to go buy some 30 awg wire in the few days and start soldering again.

 

[ShockSlayer]

Ah, glad I could help.

SS

 

[opinionatedman]

I bought that 30 gauge wire, just finished soldering everything to it's proper spot and it is not working. The LED lights up and usually the speakers on the tv will make a short sound, but the picture remains black. I have checked each connection countless times, at least 4 times each, thoroughly looking over each solder joint. When that failed I checked the board and couldn't find anything wrong. Is there a way I can tell whether or not at some point I have fried my board? I can take some pictures if that would help any.

I don't get it, I am using the right wire, in the right spots, no stray pieces of solder, everything seems to be in order. Very frustrating.... Any ideas or help?

 

[XCVG]

Is the LED lighting up? Did you put the jumper pak in? The right way around? Did you put the cart in the right way? Is your A/V connected correctly? Power?

 

[opinionatedman]

Is the LED lighting up? Did you put the jumper pak in? The right way around? Did you put the cart in the right way? Is your A/V connected correctly? Power?

LED is lighting up, jumper pack is in correct way, the cartridge is in the right way, and A/V and power are still standard original connections (ones that came with N64).

 

[goatboy]

it could be a bad pin connection between the cart slot and the game itself. test the game on another n64 if you have one. Clean the contacts of the cart with a 50/50 mix of 70% alcohol and water and use cutips to clean up the cart and get a good connection.

 

[opinionatedman]

I thank you all for the suggestions, the game itself is fine. I tested it on my original N64. I had no intention of sacrificing my N64 that I got when I was 10, so I had bought a scrap one for $10 at a flea market, and that is what I am using to build this.

All I have is a voltmeter, but I have a friend coming over later who has a multimeter with a continuity test on it, hopefully we can track down the problem.

Big Edit:

The old N64 board had scorch marks from my constant soldering/desoldering. Figured that is the reason it was not working; everything else was soldered correctly. Bought another one at the flea market for $20 this time. Gutted, cart slot still giving me troubles like no other. I have everything soldered correctly, fixed a few wires just to be sure (kinda loose). Tried to see if the N64 was sleeping, didn't work. The cartridge is in the right way, I have tried both and expansion pack and a jumper pack, I am still using the original power and A/V jacks, argh

I am fed up, going out to go buy me a fancy multimeter with a continuity tester........

 

[opinionatedman]

Okay I typed a long reply a few days ago, apparently I closed the window without replying. So short version: Rewired the entire cart slot, got it working finally

I applied loads of hot glue on it to assure it will give me no more troubles.

After that I wired it permanently on, got rid of the reset button, and removed all the controller ports and resoldered player one for testing.

Then I removed the A/V plug in and soldered in 3 wires for video and the left and right audio.

Up to date:

Here is the screen I plan to use:

Here is the case. I have 3 different similar ones, one has a metal bottom (weight I don't want to add to the system), another will be a little more difficult to use, but it is smaller. The last (in picture) is the one I am probably going to use:

Since the screen is as big as it is, I have been debating on whether or not to use it. Quality is fine, only the center part is used though. About 2 inches on each side are not used, if I could get rid of that part, which I don't think I can, I could mount the screen inside my case. But since the screen is the same size as my case, I was thinking of making it like a laptop, screen opens up. I have not decided.

Just checked the smaller case, aluminum bottom doesn't add that much weight, might use it afterall.

2 quick questions that I am sure most of you can answer with ease. One: Are the pictures too big?

And two (modding question): I would like to add a video output, would I solder the ground from the A/V wires to the ground on the N64?

 

[XCVG]

Since the screen is as big as it is, I have been debating on whether or not to use it. Quality is fine, only the center part is used though. About 2 inches on each side are not used, if I could get rid of that part, which I don't think I can, I could mount the screen inside my case. But since the screen is the same size as my case, I was thinking of making it like a laptop, screen opens up. I have not decided.

A laptop/fliptop is cool and better for multiplayer, but many frown upon laptops for some reason.

Just checked the smaller case, aluminum bottom doesn't add that much weight, might use it afterall.

It would be cool to use the aluminum bottom as a heatsink, but that's kinda hard to do. I wouldn't recommend a case with a metal back, you might get shorts which would be frustrating.

2 quick questions that I am sure most of you can answer with ease. One: Are the pictures too big?

No, they are about the right size.

And two (modding question): I would like to add a video output, would I solder the ground from the A/V wires to the ground on the N64?

Yes.

 

[opinionatedman]

The case is all aluminum except for the sides. I lined the entire bottom with rows of electrical tape to prevent shorts, as well as anything that will not be drilled through any time soon. I am switching between finishing touches on the guts and case work.

Right now I am at the power circuit, using harshboy's diagram, I believe I have everything wired up:

When I tested it with the voltmeter, I used the green wire (supposed to be 3.3 to N64) and I just picked the end of the resistor, I got a reading of 3.16, I believe that will work, right?

 

[eurddrue]

n64 + carpet = fry. Don't run your n64 on carpet, so you don't ruin it! Nice job though, the guts are looking really nice.

 

[Basement_Modder]

n64 + carpet = fry.

Now I don't have to buy them at McDonald's.




(Said that for the purpose of it being sigged.)

Anyway, try testing it with a different game.
Li-Po on a first portable=win.

 

[PalmerTech]

[quote="opinionatedman"
When I tested it with the voltmeter, I used the green wire (supposed to be 3.3 to N64) and I just picked the end of the resistor, I got a reading of 3.16, I believe that will work, right?[/quote]


It "might" work. You can try if you want, but it will be a stretch. Worst case, it will not boot up, it will not permanently harm it.

Also, try it with a game other than SSB, that game only uses a few pins. My first relocation worked with that game, but not DK64.