F64 build log
- Thread starter EnterTheHatrix
- Start date
neverused
Well-Known Member
EnterTheHatrix said:
By golly you are right. If you would like that link removed, I'll do it or have a mod do so, though I believe you posted this example yourself. I remember seeing this one a while back. My mistake.
Anyways, do you have a concept sketch for this thing? I'm trying to figure out how you're going to finish out the top portion.
Edit: Why didn't you post this photo? It gives a good indication as to how deep this project will will be:
EnterTheHatrix
Member
jlee is right, we are silly for calling them that (pretty much because kettles were the only thing that used them up until computers became more mainstream.. It's just kinda stuck with that name)
I've ground back the chip to fix the rusted off legs and cleared up the board now. There was one pin that didn't seem to be connected to anything. I think it might have been ground but I'm going to need to check it. I'll stick a photo on so you can see the damage in the morning. The case so far has gone in a bowl of warm soapy water for the night to help shift the dried on rat pee. I've also started marking my board for cuts, although I'm still not convinced of the height.
If I'm going to RCP wire to remove the connector space, I need to order some thinner wire (everything I have at the moment is too fat) and make sure that Shockslayers diagram complies with PAL systems. I'm 99% sure it does, but one can never be too careful.
I've been studying the board though, the layout is really not that complex (at least not in comparison to some other things I've worked on in the past).
I'm reasonably confident I could probably create a duplicate board to fit the space at a reasonable height. My only issue is with a few busted legs, am I going to risk using this board, or should I just chop it down, get on with it, and then work on a prototype board at a later date.
I've ground back the chip to fix the rusted off legs and cleared up the board now. There was one pin that didn't seem to be connected to anything. I think it might have been ground but I'm going to need to check it. I'll stick a photo on so you can see the damage in the morning. The case so far has gone in a bowl of warm soapy water for the night to help shift the dried on rat pee. I've also started marking my board for cuts, although I'm still not convinced of the height.
If I'm going to RCP wire to remove the connector space, I need to order some thinner wire (everything I have at the moment is too fat) and make sure that Shockslayers diagram complies with PAL systems. I'm 99% sure it does, but one can never be too careful.
I've been studying the board though, the layout is really not that complex (at least not in comparison to some other things I've worked on in the past).
I'm reasonably confident I could probably create a duplicate board to fit the space at a reasonable height. My only issue is with a few busted legs, am I going to risk using this board, or should I just chop it down, get on with it, and then work on a prototype board at a later date.
EnterTheHatrix
Member
neverused said:EnterTheHatrix said:
By golly you are right. If you would like that link removed, I'll do it or have a mod do so, though I believe you posted this example yourself. I remember seeing this one a while back. My mistake.
Anyways, do you have a concept sketch for this thing? I'm trying to figure out how you're going to finish out the top portion.
Edit: Why didn't you post this photo? It gives a good indication as to how deep this project will will be:
You're all right posting that link. It's old stuff anyway. I've done much better work since then.
Sorry I thought I had posted that side photo. As you can see from it, it's not that deep really. The thickness needs to be a trade off for height, for stability if nothing else. I also need to say to myself, if the point in front loading the N64 is to make it easier to remove cartridges from the system where it is in a confined space, then I really cant have it too tall to the point where I could have easily fit my hand over the console to pull out the cartridge on a stock N64.
I don't really have a sketch, I'm just winging it at this point. The top part will really depend on how I proceed with this motherboard situation.
And Beta, you're right, sorry. I assumed it was shockslayers because he posted the topic. It's a good graphic.
EDIT: Can I just put this for the people who are confused about the definition of mediocre? I'm getting PM's from one individual who doesn't have a clue what the word means and as a result is making up his own definitions. I'm pretty sure he's not the only one given he's not the first to say it here.
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/mediocre
βeta
ModRetro Legend
I like this project. It inspired me to make a mini home console of my own, but not frontloading. I don't think you should RCP though. You'd only gain half an inch, and would take a ton of extra time. What you COULD do, since you're relocating the cart slot anyway, is have the board in the case at an angle so it takes up less vertical space.
Like this:
Like this:
Joeyjoe9876
Frequent Poster
beta that makes a problem for inserting/taking out a jumper/exp pak.
Joeyjoe9876
Frequent Poster
because you can.
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Just hardwire one in.
EnterTheHatrix
Member
That sounds like a good idea. I'll take apart the jumper pak and see how much shorter I can get it. I've got no problem tweaking the insides to make it fit better, but I'd like to keep the expansion port there for aesthetic reasons if nothing else.
Having said that, the top side of the motherboard is facing the back. RCP wiring would be extremely difficult given it's got to then go over the top or around the side of the board. Given the damage to this chip though (not the RCP, the other big one) I'm curious as to whether it works now, but if it doesn't I still have another 2 boards here that I can put in place. I accidentally cut through the leg too far when fixing it. I assumed it worked but unless this is just a redundant leg, I won't know. Just got to resize and upload a picture, you guys will be able to tell me if I need to fix it to get it working (highly likely)
I'm still toying with the idea of building my own board, although this still wouldn't solve the jumper pak problem as I would have to remove and replace the actual port. I've PM'd Kibble and asked if he can give me a boost start by sending his eagle files, but I haven't had a response just yet. I'm still not convinced it would work, but hopefully any modifications I make would give me a starting point for PAL boards, whether its for this project or for another.
I think if I went down the route of hard-wiring in the jumper pak I may as well splash out for the expansion. Who knows, if I sell this in the future the new owner might want that capability but not have the skill of putting it in themselves. I could just glue the port shut and it would just be for aesthetics.
How much do the expansion cards cost these days?
UPDATE:
Photo
After I filed down the rust and broke the 2 pins, I shaved down the board to repair. In the process I severed 2 more pins (doh) and fingers crossed that the original 2 I broke were used for something important, and the 2 I severed were worthless. Looking at it, I doubt it. Still, they're easy to fix, I just need my laser vision and thin copper (I just have to clean the crap out of the wound, so to speak, you can see how much crap is there)
Having said that, the top side of the motherboard is facing the back. RCP wiring would be extremely difficult given it's got to then go over the top or around the side of the board. Given the damage to this chip though (not the RCP, the other big one) I'm curious as to whether it works now, but if it doesn't I still have another 2 boards here that I can put in place. I accidentally cut through the leg too far when fixing it. I assumed it worked but unless this is just a redundant leg, I won't know. Just got to resize and upload a picture, you guys will be able to tell me if I need to fix it to get it working (highly likely)
I'm still toying with the idea of building my own board, although this still wouldn't solve the jumper pak problem as I would have to remove and replace the actual port. I've PM'd Kibble and asked if he can give me a boost start by sending his eagle files, but I haven't had a response just yet. I'm still not convinced it would work, but hopefully any modifications I make would give me a starting point for PAL boards, whether its for this project or for another.
I think if I went down the route of hard-wiring in the jumper pak I may as well splash out for the expansion. Who knows, if I sell this in the future the new owner might want that capability but not have the skill of putting it in themselves. I could just glue the port shut and it would just be for aesthetics.
How much do the expansion cards cost these days?
UPDATE:
Photo
After I filed down the rust and broke the 2 pins, I shaved down the board to repair. In the process I severed 2 more pins (doh) and fingers crossed that the original 2 I broke were used for something important, and the 2 I severed were worthless. Looking at it, I doubt it. Still, they're easy to fix, I just need my laser vision and thin copper (I just have to clean the crap out of the wound, so to speak, you can see how much crap is there)
snowpenguin
Frequent Poster
If I were to guess I'd call that dead.
Also, I approve of this project, you just need to find a way to cut down on height.
Also, I approve of this project, you just need to find a way to cut down on height.
EnterTheHatrix
Member
If it is dead, I'd advise nobody to leave their consoles where rats can piss on them. Even the metal shielding is tarnished with rat pee.
I'm going to treat it as working until I can safely say otherwise. There's no point in guessing until I know for sure. This is also the reason why I'd kinda not want to put too much work into the wiring, simply because it would be a lost effort if the board has had it. I guess the only real way to find out is to wire it up and test it.
If it doesn't work, I'll strip off the components and scan the board in to start tracing a new PCB. I could really do with Kibbles eagle files to save myself quite a bit of time.
I'm going to treat it as working until I can safely say otherwise. There's no point in guessing until I know for sure. This is also the reason why I'd kinda not want to put too much work into the wiring, simply because it would be a lost effort if the board has had it. I guess the only real way to find out is to wire it up and test it.
If it doesn't work, I'll strip off the components and scan the board in to start tracing a new PCB. I could really do with Kibbles eagle files to save myself quite a bit of time.
