SS's Xenolithic Gratification Cuboid Worklog

ACTION!
ADVENTURE!
BETA AS A PILOT!

IMG_1009.jpg


...tomorrow.

SS
 
So are 3DS sliders officially okay to use???

I am SO confused about that whole ordeal. Some people said they worked, then people started saying they had issues. Now Ashen says they are fine.

Can someone give me closure on this?
 
Tchay said:
So are 3DS sliders officially okay to use???

I am SO confused about that whole ordeal. Some people said they worked, then people started saying they had issues. Now Ashen says they are fine.

Can someone give me closure on this?

What it amounts to is people are just gonna have to try for themselves. In my experience the very worst you'll get using an official Nintendo GC controller board is a VERY small amount of crawling/ghost movement. Unnoticeable at most times, and if it happens you can remedy it by bumping the joystick towards the center position.

Its like everything else though, until you try it yourself you just cant be sure.
 
Yup, it's because the joystick doesn't recenter to the exact same resistance every time, and the values are just high enough to be outside the deadzone, thus that crawl. I'm not using them because that crawl messes with my head(because I want this portable to be perfect.) That said, in gameplay, as long as you are always moving the joystick, you shouldn't have any actual problems.

SS
 
Excuse any terribly formed sentences and anything else, I'm super tired right now:

I'm using 3DS sticks again. Because I have to; custom caps on those tiny tempting Playstations I was trying to use just didn't work out. Plus, Ashen has a potential fix for me to try(a 20k resistor between the X and Y lines?), plus(if that doesn't work) I can just install magic fixing boards later if I need to.

Actual progress:

Mounted the sticks(no caps yet)
Mounted the abxy buttons
Mounted start
Mounted the screen
Mounted wkf button
Drilled a headphone jack hole(don't worry beta it's perfect)
I had the dpad mounted, removed it, see below
---

I mounted everything, fired up the cube with the controller wired, joysticks worked, that was it. Turns out I forgot that superglue does this residue thing where it puts a film of flax over adjacent flax, so my carbon contacts weren't making any contact; I had glued on the membrane piece so it wouldn't slide around.

Intense archeologist CSI badassery(a female eyebrow apparatus because I couldn't find any pipe cleaners) and some rubbing alcohol later, I got the ABXY and Start buttons working, and two dpad directions. *Can'tSayThisOnTV*ed up the pad's rubber a bit, ripped the whole godDang thing off. The two important parts remain intact: the outside of the case and the actual plastic dpad.

I am going to have to come up with another controller somehow, so I can om nom dat dpad part. I'll look around first, to see if I actually have any lying around, I never know what I have. I should also see if I can find a controller with the rumble part still on it; I have an awesome cell phone motor that is super tiny and I want to use it in this portable oh-so-bad. Wish there was a 100% verified way of getting rumble to work.

Suppose I could tear up my platinum one for that stuff, now that I have that piebird, nothing else matters.

SS
 
I did the same exact thing with the superglue on the micro r2. Which was why I had to rip pretty much everything out of the front casing near the end of the build. Fun times. I feel your pain man.
 
Ok, I just tested the 20k resistor fix on my N64. I booted it up, and theres no crawling! It works on 3.3v and 5v. However, on 3.3v, neither axis gets full range. On 5v left and down get full range but up and right don't get full range AND up and right both make mario go up (SM64). In the SSB menu, the same thing happens. I'm trying to fix this right now. I have a feeling theres going to be a different fix for N64 and GC. SS, tell me your results.

- mymixed
 
20k might not hit the right spot on ALL controller boards. Just play with the resistance value between those two axis lines until you find the sweet spot. Pretty much what we're trying to do is balance those lines just enough that when they go back to "center" we have a bit more deadzone there because of the balancing the resistor creates between the two axis's. 20k just so happened to work for me.
 
Sounds about right, more or less what I was trying to do originally. I'll test this later and get some numbers from that pad program, see how it acts.

I love that program, it is so useful, I just wish it didn't loop that one song forever. :p

SS
 
They are surprisingly cheap, ~$25 for a battery-powered one that should meet all your casing needs, or ~$50 for a corded one with all the trimmings and bits.

Sell your body spare electronics bits or something if you have to.
 
Yes, especially the unbranded cheap ones. I had one and it's battery went out in 5 minutes, no joke.
 
They are ungodly bad for cases; my mom has one for her nails, I tried using it. Oh my god.

I'm going to do everything I can to continue to make progress. Close to finishing.

SS
 
Back
Top