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I still have the parts/boards for a couple dozen more circuits if people are still interested. Check the first post for prices/details, send me a pm to order.

Just to let you guys know, I'll still make these circuits for anybody who wants one. If you're interested shoot me a pm.

When I play Wii on my projector, setting up the sensor bar is a real pain, the cables aren't long enough and at the distance I play, the pointing is unreliable. I considered making a longer sensor bar and fixing it to the wall but aesthetically it put me off. I recently saw a really great...

I started to do something like this too, but haven't got very far yet :(

I went to buy a couple of li-po cells from batteryspace, but they want to charge me $85 for economy shipping to the UK! (I know they're classed as hazardous materials etc. but that's WAY too pricey) So I need some kind soul from the USA to do me a big favour and forward a package to the UK, I...

*bump* see the first post for details.

You could simplify the circuit as mario did here, but the way you suggest would lose functionality, the green led wouldn't switch off when the red came on. The 'extra' transistors are there so you get a sharp change between the green/red leds and not a gradual fading where both would be on at...

I've started to trace the n64 controller but haven't had time to finish it yet so make sure you double-check for yourself, so far I get: As far as the d-pad goes; Up-Pin 3, Down-Pin 5, Left-Pin 4, Right-Pin 2.

A quick bump to say I'll start taking orders from today, and that I've updated the first post with pics of the final board.

I checked at the post office today, and the shipping is slightly more expensive than I thought. I've updated the first post with the definite prices and will start taking orders this weekend. @Toastbucket I could make a version for 6V, but there'd be an extra $1 charge because I don't have the...

I made a little prototype of my low-batt circuit today, and messy hand-soldering aside, it turned out pretty well. I've got enough parts on hand to make quite a few more, so I thought I might offer them for sale here on the forums. (excuse the poor mobile phone pics) dimensions: 17 x 15 x...

Re: N-SexyFour Buildlog They would have been right, both of those diagrams are logically equivalent. The one you posted first is probably best though, it uses less parts/power.

I'm not sure about the leds, I got them from some random junk ages ago. They're an odd side-looking package, probably about 0805-sized, ~2mmx1mm. I'm just running them from the 5V pin on the vmu connector, so they only come on when it's in the controller, not that I ever have batteries in my vmu...

I was bored yesterday, thought I'd have a go at backlighting a vmu. I was inspired by bibin's gameboy backlighting guide, I had all the parts to hand so I tried this first. It works quite well, but it's not perfect. There's hardly any room behind the vmu screen, I used a thin piece of roughed...

Not really, they're only there for decoupling, it doesn't hurt to include them though.

No, all n64s have 4MB of ram, early revisions have two 2MB chips, later revisions have one 4MB chip. The official expansion pak has one 4MB chip. You can replace the two 2MB chips on an early n64 with two 4MB chips from an expansion pak or later model n64. You can then add the resistors from a...

Ideally the heat-sinks should cover all the chip's surface, so you could trim a couple up or maybe use a thin copper sheet as a heat spreader and sink both the main chips together with 4 or 6 of those heat-sinks on top. You'll need at least some air-flow >n64, but you can tell the heat-sinking...

Heat-sink design is notoriously complicated, you can go over the theory until you're blue in the face and still not come up with anything satisfactory, for portables it's pretty much guesswork anyway because there're so many unknown variables. On paper, copper is better than aluminium in every...

The electrolyte in most AA-type cells is a mild alkali of sorts, so it's not a battery acid, more a 'battery alkali', and like you say it won't do much but slightly irritate the skin unless you rub it in your eyes or something. In a car battery though, the electrolyte's a pretty strong sulphuric...

Re: How to wire a momentary switch as a 7.4v power button @snowpenguin 4m7 = 4,700,000Ω and no, but you could put two 0.1uF caps in parallel to make 0.2uF, which is close enough. @argelfraster it all got lost a while ago when i moved house, along with all my games and spares :cry4: