What should I do with the bottem half of my decapitated DS?

Well... There is ONE way...

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http://hackaday.com/2004/12/19/nintendo ... /#more-112

There is another one that will work, but you will need to buy a new screen for it, and I cannot find it for sale anymore. It was basically a strapon camera that look at the screen and plugged into a TV. :lol:
 
PalmerTech said:
Speculating, it seems that the resistor bridge just makes the DS think the backlight is there, which is why a cracked, horribly damaged screen will still boot as long as the backlight is connected. Perhaps most of the screen can be eliminated, and the resistor simply soldered on the spot where the ribbon terminates to the backlight assembly? Bibin, any thoughts?

Yes, it does seem that the backlight is important, but I'm not sure if that is the only check.
 
Bibin said:
No, the pin bridge just lets the DS turn on without any top portion. As for that, that can be set in the system settings section.

Guess I wasnt clear. I was refering to that setting menu. I knew it was a softwar thing.
 
I'll scavenge the buttons and the battery, not much else I can think of.
 
J.D said:
I'll scavenge the buttons and the battery, not much else I can think of.
yep, and the screen if you haven't opened it, because you can use it to backlight a gameboy pocked or a DMG :mrgreen:
 
I already opened the top half of the screen, and the bottom screen is cracked.
 
Cool beans. Now if I mess up backlighting my DS with the top screen, I can use the bottom screen!

Also, all I need to do is put the sheets under the GB screen and you have backlight?
 
J.D said:
Cool beans. Now if I mess up backlighting my DS with the top screen, I can use the bottom screen!

Also, all I need to do is put the sheets under the GB screen and you have backlight?

Yes, but you should trim them down to size. You need to wire up the LEDs of course too, and keep the sheets in the correct order. The backmost metal hard panel is not needed, but will help keep it structurally sound.

You'll need to prep your LCD, too. I made a guide of that in the handheld section, but basically you should heat up the LCD so the adhesive comes off easier, then peel off the back reflective panel. You need to clean gunky glue out afterwards, but then it should be fine.
 
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