Snesper j rev 1 worklog

XCVG said:
Huh, that's odd. I thought only the smaller board had the 1chip design.
the final revision model 1 snes board had it too. ive seen 2 boards like that. usually made around 96ish or so, maybe late 95.
 
Finally an update

bad news: buyer fell through he got his wallet stolen and now he wont be able to afford the snesp for a while, (bloody uni students) im not too far off finishing so i think ill continue

good news: controller port relocated, more casework done, hotglue applied to joints for "extra strength" (internal only of course),

help required (please :D)

http://translate.google.com/transla...net/?page_id=37&sl=auto&tl=en&history_state0=

im having a little trouble following that guide for PAL 60hz modding, and does that mod also make it region free or do i still have to disable the lockout chip?

thanks
 
Sandpaper comes in grit numbers, e.g. 100, 400, etc. About 100 grit is pretty rough and will remove more material quickly. Once you get it generally where you want it and want to smooth it out, it's time to go up in numbers. Move up gradually, e.g. 200 next, maybe some 400 after, and finer and finer until you like how it is. Ace Hardware has a sanpaper assortment that comes with fine, medium, and coarse, which seems to do the job nicely and only costs like $2.50.
 
Sandpaper is availible in lots of grits. 40, 60, or 80 is great for removing material quick. 120, 180, and 220 are intermediate, general purpose grades. 400 gives an okay, but not great finish, is overkill for wood and okay for plastic. For metal and sometimes plastic you'll need to go higher, maybe 600 or 800. I've heard people go up to 2500 grit, but that's not really sanding, it's more like polishing.
 
yeh i cleaned up the putty with sandpaper which worked great (found a bunch o sandpaper in the garage and i just tried them all to see what worked best)

now im just having trouble with my last question ^^^^
 
You need to lift pin 111 from the board and remove the crystal "X1". Then you need a DPDT switch. Wire one side of the switch to switch pin 111 from 5V through a 2.2K resistor to ground. The other side connects to a point where X1 was and selects the crystal. It should be wired so the PAL crystal is active when pin 111 is switched to 5V. You need two crystals obviously, the frequencies are listed. They might be hard to find but digi-key probably has some. You can use the existing crystal for NTSC if you don't destroy it during removal.
 
^^thanks, still trying to get my head around it but

first picture update since the start, pictures were taken with hp laptop so quality isnt amazing
snapshot200908292.jpg

snapshot200908291.jpg

snapshot20090829.jpg


still have to do the pal 60 hz mod/region mod, power wiring, plugs n stuff (av out/in, switches etc.), more epoxy putty sanding and then black paint
 
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