Protobug's second GCP

RedmagnusX beat me to what I was going to suggest... Just make sure to use wires of the appropriate thickness (what you had looked fine from what I could see)
 
Protobug said:
Ok thanks guys i'll try That on friday :) can my board ne dead because or thèse wires?

It's unlikely that your board is dead primarily because you said that you were still getting heat from it, that's why I listed it last, but it is possible. The main things that kill GC motherboards are shorts or wiring the voltages to the wrong location (ie 3.3v to where the 1.9v location is or wiring voltage to ground). Bad cuts can also kill the board, but your board isn't cut yet. The wires you're using should not be an issue though.
 
Ok awesome i'll try everything this weekend :)

My friend gave me the back part of the case :



And i (finally) received my speakers ans some soft tact switches :


If my board doesn't work i'll work on the controller
 
Protobug said:
And i checked my screen's description, it says it is pal/Ntsc :)

Unfortunately, the descriptions for those Chinese screens are really not all that reliable. :confused: Did you test it with an intact PAL Gamecube and PAL AV cable? If not, that's the best way to test your screen to make sure that it is PAL compatible.
 
I tested it with my pal wii and it worked fine :) i'm gonna try tomorow with a untouched gc cable to see if everything still works
 
ok so my board is definitely dead :( i ordered 2 more cubes (not gonna let this project die like before) for 20 bucks. Soooo in the meantime i'm working on wiring the controller and all ports on the portable, photos tonight
 
Protobug said:
ok so my board is definitely dead :( i ordered 2 more cubes (not gonna let this project die like before) for 20 bucks. Soooo in the meantime i'm working on wiring the controller and all ports on the portable, photos tonight

That stinks man. My best guess would be that you somehow fried your AVE-DOL. I'm glad you're not letting this discourage you though.
 
thanks for the support :)
here are some pics of the unit closed and the controller wiring !



I agree that's pretty thick but i wanted to play it safe

 
thanks guys :D last update of the weekend :

Sooo i'm still waiting for my wasp+megadrive from badassconsole (apparently it's stuck in saudi arabia O_O)
I'll get new cubes during the week which i hope will allow me to wire everything correctly this time hum hum hum
and i am also waitin for my sd cards.
Since i don't have that much money anymore (student hehe) i found some batteries from another that i will use for now. They don't have that much juice but they should give me about 2 hours of gameplay and that will do it for the time beeing.
Pics !
 
Ok time for another update !

As this is the end of the semester, i couldn't do much this weekend, but i finally received my soft tact switches and started working and the shoulder buttons :



I also installed the last pcb for the controls, beeing the d pad. I had a bit of problems, at irst it didn't fit so i had to trim down the Dpad and the hole. I still have to clean everything with sand paper but it is working pretty well :



Next weekend i'll be in vacation so i'll have plenty of time to work on this project :)
I also received my wasp (finally) so i'll be testing that soon. Stay tuned !
 
Thanks :)
If you look closely on the front photos of the unit, you will see twho little holes near the top half of the screen, thos holes will be for the Z and start Buttons
 
Great job on mounting those doubt tacts for the shoulder buttons. The D-pad looks a little rough though, but I know that's because it's 3d printed. It's tough to make 3d printed buttons that look good. I would try giving the buttons an acetone vapor bath to smooth them out.
 
thanks :)

it mostly because of my poor dremel cutting job haha but i'll try smoothing it with sandpaper. It's printed in pla, will it work with acetone ?
 
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