Tchay
Frequent Poster
Okay! The gamecube auto-shuts off at 270 degrees Fahrenheit = 132 degrees Celsius. I just tested it using this. The moment my multimeter hit 2.70 volts the gamecube shut off. This was tested on a REV A DOL-001 CPU 11. I will do more testing on other Rev A and C boards.
UPDATE: When the motherboard temp reaches 217ºF = 102.77ºC (2.17v on multimeter) the gamecube will shutoff (meaning the chips have reached 270ºF). The difference in temperature is because naturally the actual Gecko and Flipper will be MUCH hotter than the motherboard itself. So if you are placing your thermal sensor on the motherboard, then by the time the Gecko gets to 270ºF, the board itself will be 217ºF. Kapeesh?
Finally, I can begin testing to see which heating methods are the best. In this thread I will test the stock heatsink against numerous other types of heating methods like copper sheats, ram heatsinks, macbook heatsinks, and fan sucking versus blowing.
I strongly encourage serious modders to buy the LM34 to do testing of your own. And if any of you want to help me out and contribute, I'd appreciate. I'm doing this science fair style
For each test I will be placing the sensor directly below the Gecko processor. I will also put a make shift plastic cover over the whole board and heatsink method to simulate a portable case. Temperature will be recorded with and without fan usage.
STOCK GC HEATSINK
- After 15 minutes, no fan and covered with plastic shell - 135ºF = 57.22ºC not leveled out yet
- 25 minutes after using stock GC fan to suck air off aluminum - 110ºF = 43.33ºC leveled out temp
COPPER - 11 gauge .094” x 3.5” x 4.25”
- After 15 minutes, no fan and covered with plastic shell - 176ºF = 80ºC not leveled out yet
- After using stock GC fan to suck air off the copper - 142ºF = 61.11ºC leveled out temp
^ that really surprises me actually (in a good way).
THE CCUBE (Trimmed GC heatsink fins cut to 2mm protrusion (about 7mm thick off the chips) with tons of fans)
- 40 minutes in playing Metroid Prime 2 - 120ºF = 48.88ºC leveled out temp
I was always paranoid about the Ccube getting too hot. Guess I overreacted? Maybe I can sell it after all.
THINKPAD HEATSINK + FAN - credits to zenloc for showing this option (approximately 8.73125mm thick)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05K5494-IBM-Coo ... 2ec4d1335b (credits to AteOeight for finding them on ebay)
Testing during Zelda: Twilight Princess gameplay. Note, the motherboard is OMGWTF trimmed. I tested this inside of my Gamecube Envision. The mobo is screwed into the case and I am using Arctic Silver 5 on all the chips.
Thinkpad heatsink (using 3.43v for fan)
131ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
Thinkpad heatsink (using 5v for fan)
126ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
Thinkpad heatsink (using 7.4v for fan)
120ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
For each of these I have to admit that the "leveled out temp" could increase after hours of use and in hotter climates.
Stickies:
Heatsink links + methods
UPDATE: When the motherboard temp reaches 217ºF = 102.77ºC (2.17v on multimeter) the gamecube will shutoff (meaning the chips have reached 270ºF). The difference in temperature is because naturally the actual Gecko and Flipper will be MUCH hotter than the motherboard itself. So if you are placing your thermal sensor on the motherboard, then by the time the Gecko gets to 270ºF, the board itself will be 217ºF. Kapeesh?
Finally, I can begin testing to see which heating methods are the best. In this thread I will test the stock heatsink against numerous other types of heating methods like copper sheats, ram heatsinks, macbook heatsinks, and fan sucking versus blowing.
I strongly encourage serious modders to buy the LM34 to do testing of your own. And if any of you want to help me out and contribute, I'd appreciate. I'm doing this science fair style
For each test I will be placing the sensor directly below the Gecko processor. I will also put a make shift plastic cover over the whole board and heatsink method to simulate a portable case. Temperature will be recorded with and without fan usage.
STOCK GC HEATSINK
- After 15 minutes, no fan and covered with plastic shell - 135ºF = 57.22ºC not leveled out yet
- 25 minutes after using stock GC fan to suck air off aluminum - 110ºF = 43.33ºC leveled out temp
COPPER - 11 gauge .094” x 3.5” x 4.25”
- After 15 minutes, no fan and covered with plastic shell - 176ºF = 80ºC not leveled out yet
- After using stock GC fan to suck air off the copper - 142ºF = 61.11ºC leveled out temp
^ that really surprises me actually (in a good way).
THE CCUBE (Trimmed GC heatsink fins cut to 2mm protrusion (about 7mm thick off the chips) with tons of fans)
- 40 minutes in playing Metroid Prime 2 - 120ºF = 48.88ºC leveled out temp
I was always paranoid about the Ccube getting too hot. Guess I overreacted? Maybe I can sell it after all.
THINKPAD HEATSINK + FAN - credits to zenloc for showing this option (approximately 8.73125mm thick)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05K5494-IBM-Coo ... 2ec4d1335b (credits to AteOeight for finding them on ebay)
Testing during Zelda: Twilight Princess gameplay. Note, the motherboard is OMGWTF trimmed. I tested this inside of my Gamecube Envision. The mobo is screwed into the case and I am using Arctic Silver 5 on all the chips.
Thinkpad heatsink (using 3.43v for fan)
131ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
Thinkpad heatsink (using 5v for fan)
126ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
Thinkpad heatsink (using 7.4v for fan)
120ºF - motherboard temperature (backside of CPU - Gekko)
For each of these I have to admit that the "leveled out temp" could increase after hours of use and in hotter climates.
Stickies:
Heatsink links + methods