LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
The individual voltage lines on the GC draw as follows:
1,9v (GPU) - 3.4 Amps
1.9v (CPU) - 3.1 Amps
3,3v - 0.8 Amps
5.0v - 0.3 Amps (note that the 5v line is ONLY used for the disc drive motor,5v memorycard line and 5v rumble line for controllers nothing else!!!)
12.0v - 0.05 Amps (without fan, sound only!)
First off let's start with the original regulator. 10.2v is the lowest the board can handle and still work correctly didn't test how high it can go but it can reach above 20v no problem. I have done many tests with a switchable lab power supply and have come to the following conclusions:
10.2v - 1.7 Amps (min) 1.8 Amps (max)
11.1v - 1.5 Amps (min) 1.6 Amps (max)
12.0v - 1.4 Amps (min) 1.5 Amps (max)
14.8v - 1.2 Amps (min) 1.3 Amps (max)
This is with the 12v line of the regulator board connected to sound. If you don't connect 12v and use the 5v line as SS has found out if will slightly up the draw but it has very little effect in actual playing time. So I would just leave it connected to the 12v line.
Now for my custom regulator. It can go as low as 5v and still function properly. Also the V input is connected to sound. Making it get the highest possible voltage. It can take 5v but it doesn't always sound that good. Not every GC likes it at low voltages so it is recommended to give it the highest voltage possible. So we have the following:
5.0v - 3.4 Amps (min) 3.5 Amps (max)
7.4v - 2.3 Amps (min) 2.4 Amps (max)
10.2v - 1.7 Amps (min) 1.8 Amps (max)
11.1v - 1.5 Amps (min) 1.6 Amps (max)
12.0v - 1.4 Amps (min) 1.5 Amps (max)
14.8v - 1.2 Amps (min) 1.3 Amps (max)
Check out this video of it in action! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbGlRTaqVb4
As you can see my regulator is as efficient as the original one with the given voltages and it can take lower ones. You can get all the regulators as sample so it doesn't even cost you that much. Just a few little components.
Parts used are :
1.9v - PTR08100W + 903 Ohm resisitor and 2x 100uF caps
3.4v - PTH08080W + 1.87 kOhm resisitor and 2x 100uF caps (1 cap on the output line is optional and not needed)
5v - PTH08080W + 348 Ohm resistor and 2x 100uF caps (1 cap on the output line is optional and not needed)
Note you can use TI regulators for the 3.4v and 5v line. I just use these switching regulators cause they produce less heat.
------------------WiiKey Fusion/WODE REGULATOR---------------
Ok I have some great news! With my newest regulator for a WiiKey Fusion or WODE. The gamecube will draw a total of 1.7A (a bit lower in game) on 7.4v. This is the lowest I can get it with everything working 100%.
Let me explain:
The GPU takes 1.8v originally. I was able to power it of 1.7v while still working correctly. Drawing 3A at 1.7v
The CPU takes 1.55v originally. I was able to power it of 1.5v while still working correctly. Drawing 2.2A at 1.5v
The 3.3v line will stay the same as putting a lower voltage in won't make any difference in amp draw. Drawing 0.8A at 3.3v
By using a PTR08060 or PTR08100 for the 1.7v line
a PTH08080 or PTH08000 for the 1.5v line
and another PTH08080 or PTH08000 for the 3.3v line
we now have the possibility to bring down the total amp draw!!!
PTR08060 and PTR08100 need 100uF caps on output and input. PTH08080 and PTH08000 only need 100uf caps on input.
Following my diagram below you will be able to see which resistors you need to get the appropriate voltage.
The other regulators on this diagram are for powering the cube of a single 3.7v battery. Amp draw is not as effecient as 7.4v so not really worth your time.
The total draw of running the cube of these 3 regulators is 1.7A (a bit lower in game). If you don't want to bother with 2 separate regulators for the CPU and GPU. You can use the PTR08060 or PTR08100 on 1.7v to power both chips. The difference in total draw is 0.2A. As running it of those 2 regulators will give you a total of 1.9A on 7.4v
It's your choice. Note that the draw of the WODE and WiiKey chips have to be added. I still need to measure those.
1,9v (GPU) - 3.4 Amps
1.9v (CPU) - 3.1 Amps
3,3v - 0.8 Amps
5.0v - 0.3 Amps (note that the 5v line is ONLY used for the disc drive motor,5v memorycard line and 5v rumble line for controllers nothing else!!!)
12.0v - 0.05 Amps (without fan, sound only!)
First off let's start with the original regulator. 10.2v is the lowest the board can handle and still work correctly didn't test how high it can go but it can reach above 20v no problem. I have done many tests with a switchable lab power supply and have come to the following conclusions:
10.2v - 1.7 Amps (min) 1.8 Amps (max)
11.1v - 1.5 Amps (min) 1.6 Amps (max)
12.0v - 1.4 Amps (min) 1.5 Amps (max)
14.8v - 1.2 Amps (min) 1.3 Amps (max)
This is with the 12v line of the regulator board connected to sound. If you don't connect 12v and use the 5v line as SS has found out if will slightly up the draw but it has very little effect in actual playing time. So I would just leave it connected to the 12v line.
Now for my custom regulator. It can go as low as 5v and still function properly. Also the V input is connected to sound. Making it get the highest possible voltage. It can take 5v but it doesn't always sound that good. Not every GC likes it at low voltages so it is recommended to give it the highest voltage possible. So we have the following:
5.0v - 3.4 Amps (min) 3.5 Amps (max)
7.4v - 2.3 Amps (min) 2.4 Amps (max)
10.2v - 1.7 Amps (min) 1.8 Amps (max)
11.1v - 1.5 Amps (min) 1.6 Amps (max)
12.0v - 1.4 Amps (min) 1.5 Amps (max)
14.8v - 1.2 Amps (min) 1.3 Amps (max)
Check out this video of it in action! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbGlRTaqVb4
As you can see my regulator is as efficient as the original one with the given voltages and it can take lower ones. You can get all the regulators as sample so it doesn't even cost you that much. Just a few little components.
Parts used are :
1.9v - PTR08100W + 903 Ohm resisitor and 2x 100uF caps
3.4v - PTH08080W + 1.87 kOhm resisitor and 2x 100uF caps (1 cap on the output line is optional and not needed)
5v - PTH08080W + 348 Ohm resistor and 2x 100uF caps (1 cap on the output line is optional and not needed)
Note you can use TI regulators for the 3.4v and 5v line. I just use these switching regulators cause they produce less heat.
------------------WiiKey Fusion/WODE REGULATOR---------------
Ok I have some great news! With my newest regulator for a WiiKey Fusion or WODE. The gamecube will draw a total of 1.7A (a bit lower in game) on 7.4v. This is the lowest I can get it with everything working 100%.
Let me explain:
The GPU takes 1.8v originally. I was able to power it of 1.7v while still working correctly. Drawing 3A at 1.7v
The CPU takes 1.55v originally. I was able to power it of 1.5v while still working correctly. Drawing 2.2A at 1.5v
The 3.3v line will stay the same as putting a lower voltage in won't make any difference in amp draw. Drawing 0.8A at 3.3v
By using a PTR08060 or PTR08100 for the 1.7v line
a PTH08080 or PTH08000 for the 1.5v line
and another PTH08080 or PTH08000 for the 3.3v line
we now have the possibility to bring down the total amp draw!!!
PTR08060 and PTR08100 need 100uF caps on output and input. PTH08080 and PTH08000 only need 100uf caps on input.
Following my diagram below you will be able to see which resistors you need to get the appropriate voltage.
The other regulators on this diagram are for powering the cube of a single 3.7v battery. Amp draw is not as effecient as 7.4v so not really worth your time.
The total draw of running the cube of these 3 regulators is 1.7A (a bit lower in game). If you don't want to bother with 2 separate regulators for the CPU and GPU. You can use the PTR08060 or PTR08100 on 1.7v to power both chips. The difference in total draw is 0.2A. As running it of those 2 regulators will give you a total of 1.9A on 7.4v
It's your choice. Note that the draw of the WODE and WiiKey chips have to be added. I still need to measure those.
