No, no. They probably won't be shorts you can see, because the N64 is multi-layer. When you cut it, it might bridge traces together due to the rotating dremel bit. Sanding will get rid of these.
I will check it tomorrow I will check it, It's kind strange some time it will turn on and some times won't. I trimmed another board in the past month and happened the same, I though it was the boar, so I tried with another one. I think is that PAL-M modding, but still is VERY strange. Thanks for the quick replies.
I've started trimming my n64 based upon this guide.
Started removing the caps. Left c33 on as on my pal board it made the sound a bit deteriorated.
Anyway. Trimmed some of the right hand side off, and it stopped working. Did Ashens 2k fix and that sorted it.
The this is where it gets strange. As I started cutting the top of the board off I removed the top ground rail and the 12v rail. And now for some reason the video has gone and only one of the audio feeds works. So I only get some sound. . .
Anyone got any ideas on where I've gone wrong here. I should be able to get a pic up later.
But has anyone got any ideas or experience with this problems?
Hi guys! tried this trim for the first time, did not worked at first, but then I did the 2k resistor mod and I have my picture, but colors look washed out, do you know where the problem could come from? Seems like it is probably that I need to solder a capacitor or a resistor from what i found on forums, but I don't know how many ohms, I have a 04 revision, Thanks!
So, could I possibly cut the board down to this^^, and still be able to test it without hooking it up to batteries? Obviously I would have to have jumpers to the cables to a regular TV, but for testing purposes I guess is what I'm asking. I wouldn't need to cut it down as far as this cut, really only about like this (I would remove the on/off switch after testing):
My proposed first trim in red
After testing removal of on/off switch in Black
So far the only thing I have removed from the board is the reset button, and controller 3 & 4 ports as well as relocating the cart slot (not rcp). It's a rev 6 board.
I'd like to remove as little as possible from the board to get it to fit in my frankencase (basically I don't want to dick around with the caps). I know the more room the better, but until I get my battery/charger circuit straight and my screen in, I just want to know that it will work either way I guess is what I'm getting at. And I wasn't sure if I could do this and still hook it up to 120v or if you need the board fully intact for that.
Hopefully this question isn't as confusing as I think it may be lol
I looked right at this too, and didn't even think about it after someone mentioned your trim in the sticky; I went right to this one lol.
Cool, I'll try that when I get a minute, hopefully tonight. I imagine that the rest of the info about the chip pin-out for audio and video are the same as you mentioned in here along with power connection points once I get my Battery pack and regulator together? And I won't need to worry about any resistors on the bottom of the board being cut while hooking it to the 120v wall power?