tiago's PS2p build

Hi, my names is Tiago and i'm from Portugal. :p

So, i'm thinking of buiding my own Playstation 2 Portable because i think it's still a great console and want to learn more about electronics and working on plastics. I've considered the GameCube too as i never had a Nintendo product. But they are very rare here in Portugal and besides i don't even own any games for it so i'd have to invest much more which is not an option.
Anybody still making PS2Ps or has the scene move on to another console?

My potential build would have something like:

- ZN-40 or ZN-45 case.
- PS2 Slim 70xxx or 79xxx running on some battery pack.
- No optical disc drive.
- Free MCBoot with OPL and a Media Player installed.
- A 5.6" 4::3: ratio screen.
- One or Two Memory Cards depending if those big third party Memory cards are compatible with Free MC Boot or not. I recall trying some years ago. Didn't work but i don't remember if it was not compatible or just a faulty Memory Card.
- A 16GB or bigger USB flash drive to put the games on.
- Keeping the Network Port would be great because of OPL's SMB functionality. Another idea would be installing a Raspberry Pi and connect it to the PS2. But i guess that would seriously affect power consumption...
- Original DualShock2 or third party controller frankencased in. Either way i'd remove the rumble feature totally or replace it with a LED.
- Maybe a port for a 2nd player.
- Headphone jack.
- Charger jack.

Now onto some questions

I'm a noob. I do some light stuff from time to time thus having a cheap iron, multimeter, solder pump and so on. And i'm very curious which i guess is a good thing.

- Is this project really too hard for a first portable?
- Is there a massive advantage in using a VGA screen like Ashen did instead of a regular cheap component reverse car camera screen. Or is the reverse camera screen good enough? I don't need top notch visuals.
- I've seen people reccomend the use of 3rd party controllers with no membranes. Are they much easier to install? Do they have pressure sensitive buttons anyways? I'd like to have those because of Gran Turismo 4.
- Do i have to use the 79xxx Slim or can i use the bigger 70xxx for this build on these ZN cases? It seems like here in Portugal 70xxx are much, much more available.


Thanks!
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Welcome to the Forums!!

I can see you've at least browsed here a bit before signing up, because you already seem to have a great theoretical foundation to begin a project. So then I shall take the liberty of lending my answers to your questions.

- I wouldn't say the PS2 is the easiest console to portablize, but it's nowhere near the hardest, and really, you should build the system you want to build, especially if you're planning on keeping it.

- If anything I would say there's a disadvantage to using VGA, because analog signals pick up a lot of interference unless they're meticulously shielded. I know you said quality wasn't an issue, but this is one area that I feel deserves attention.

- Not sure what you mean by pressure sensitive, as far as I know the only aspect of PS2 controllers that use varying currents are the joysticks. But as for ease of installation, that really comes down to how you design your case, and how much of the original controller you keep intact, outside and inside.

- That's going to depend on the dimensions of the ZN case, the 7900X is 12.6 x 12.6 cm (when fully trimmed) and the 700XX is 20.4 x 12.6 cm

- Also (this wasn't a question, just something I wanted to add), the larger third party memory cards are not compatible with FMCB, it has to do with the kind of memory used. But what you can do (and what I'm doing) is keep your FMCB card hard wired to slot 2, and then connect a port to slot 1, so that you can use a 128 MB card for game saves.

I confess myself rather jealous that you have such ready access to the first gen slim consoles, my method of using the HDD relies on these motherboards

Anyway we all can't wait to see your progress, whatever direction you decide to take it

Good Luck!!
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Wow, very detailed reply, thanks for taking the time.

So you just cleared some doubts about the screen. If i decide to do it i'll go with a Composite 4::3: ratio screen (i mistakenly wrote component on the first post) like this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-3-TFT-LCD-C ... Swk1JWekE8

I'm only finding 4::3: ratio screens under 5" size. Then 7" which i think might leave little room for buttons on a ZN case.
It says PAL/NTSC compatible and 4::3: ratio. Should it work with no stretch or borders? Is the resolution enough?

- The PS2 controller is atleast somewhat pressure sensitive. Atleast the 4 face buttons are. On Gran Turismo 4 you can control the ammount of acceleration or braking by how strongly you press the buttons. On Metal Gear Solid it's the same thing. You lightly press O to hold an enemie. Then if you want to slit his troat you just have to push the button a bit more.

- So i guess even the 700xx motherboard would fit on a ZN 40 or 45 case. But with only 1cm or less to spare. I can see it being very cramped and hot in there if at all possible because of the heat.

- Doubts cleared about the memory cards :D

- Yeah lots of people here bought the PS2 once it was launched the first Slim model (because it became more affordable). I actually read about your method but i think it might be too much for me. Anyways i'd definitely need a bigger case if i was going to to that.

Thanks again!
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Also, any suggestions for a case besides the ZN-40 or 45?

I've seen someone use a Wii U controller case but i'm affraid it might be to thin.
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Well... Thinking from the outside of that particular box (pun intended), you could alternatively just build the interior, have it all put together and working, then get a rough idea of the dimensions so you can build a wood model that expresses a smooth covering for all the bits inside, while not leaving any space unused (usually 2 models, 1 for top, 1 for bottom), then use a vacuum form table (you said you wanted to learn plastic working techniques) to form the plastic into the shape of the models, cut it out, cut out the vents, screen hole, button holes, etc. You can then use screw posts, hinges with latches, or whatever other method you can think of to hold the two halves together.

I like this method because it frees you to get really creative with your project and not have to work within the restrictions of a pre selected box
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Then again you could always learn a lit CAD and 3D print your case, that would be sick!!
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Thanks!

I'll have to get a 79xxx and begin working on it. Already made lots of calls without luck.

I also thought of a wooden case which i think would be easy to make and excellent for fixing things on.
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

DO ITTTTTTT!!!!!!! Seriously dude the only thing better than a 3D printed, or vacuum formed case, is one made of a nice hardwood, Oak, Walnut, Lyptus, or anything really, sanded smooth and lacquered to a mirror shine. You could even use different kinds of wood for the buttons to make them different colored.

You gotta take pride in your work

Also you should try looking on eBay or any other such equivalents, but bare in mind a 79001 is likely NTSC, you can change this with FMCB and GSM, but it'd be better to get a PAL console
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

I'll follow your advice of starting the work on the motherboard before thinking seriously of the case. But yeah wood sounds good i reckon ;)

With that said, i've found a 79004 unit with 2 DualShock2 controllers for 37€ shipping included. Which is about 40$ or £28. I'm expecting to receive it sometime this week. I don't think it comes with any Memory Card but i'll definitely be able to find those for cheap. I also already have one or two FMCB at home that i use with my 77004 Slim. Looking at the photos of the advert this 79004 seems to have been barely used and/or well taken care of.

wHXtLj8h.jpg


j5fJcUMh.jpg


vmSAepah.jpg




Now onto a question
On the 7900x guide the first step is to remove the lid sensor switch. I'll remove the disc drive so i won't have to do this right? My 77004 runs FMCB and OPL with the lid open so i think the lid swith won't make a difference on the 7900x right?
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Update

Console actually arrived today. Tested all working.
Already removed the complete optical disc drive assembly. Then tested with the lid opened. Console starts FMCB and loads games on OPL so i guess i won't have to bypass the lid switch.
Tomorrow if i have the time i might start taking apart the motherboard.
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Ahh how I envy you for those first dizzy steps into modding your console.. all that knowledge, just waiting to take it's place in your mind.. all those ideas, just chomping at the bit to emerge and enrich your build..

sorry that got weird on me

Anyway you should start a Worklog thread, so people know what you're doing, we all love to see the progress made on other's projects.

Are you using the latest version of OPL?
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

:mrgreen:

I'll ask a moderator if it's possible to edit the title of the thread so it reads "worklog" instead of "question" so that i don't have to create another for a worklog.


Yes i've updated OPL and FMCB to the most recent versions. OPL is great! Recently played MGS2 and 3 via SMB and it's fantastic!


Update


The Optical Audio port was pretty easy to remove.
I've started desoldering the controllers/memory card port with a 50w soldering iron, soldering pump and desoldering braid but it's turning out to be pretty difficult. About 70% of the solder points removed easily but the rest can't seem to melt...
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

One method, if you don't need the ports is to break them off. Tchays video here is for the GC, but it might work similair. https://youtu.be/sERPbC2f5OM

Edit; I also have a untested ps2 slim SCPH-77004 is that is in your interest.
 
Re: Advice for a PS2p build

Arghh!! I wish I'd told you this earlier; the best way to remove a PS2 slim controller port, just like @WatsuG said, is to break them off, and I've found that the best method is this:

1. Use a pin to release the small latch inside the memory card ports, you stick it in that little space under the bend in each contact, this makes the whole pin easily come out of the plastic housing, and the best part is you can just reinsert them after the fact if you want to use the port for your portable.

2. After you've released each memory card pin, they become very simple to pull out of their holes, just apply a bit of heat and it comes right out, you can then use a pump to clean the holes, which is what they're best for.

3. After all that, just grasp the board as firmly as you can nearest to the port to prevent the motherboard flexing, oscillate the port back and forth, the faster the better, because more heat builds up so the molecular bonds release quicker, and before you know it the whole port will be off. then just use a pair of tweezers to desolder the remains of the controller pins.

(steps 2 and 3 can be done in either order)

This method has the highest probability for success if ALL the controller port pins are properly soldered to the board, this puts all the flexing on the flimsy part of the metal.

So you may have to undo some of your work so far, but a good thing to keep in mind is that the less time a solder pad spends being heated and manipulated by the iron the better, because eventually the adhesive that holds the pad down will release, and the pad may become unusable.

Good luck!!

PS. just edit your first post and change the title to say worklog, just like you chose for it to say question
 
thanks to both of you. I'll try that! i was thinking of using the dremel to cut the port out but i'll try that way instead! after the controller port i'll turn my attention to the video on ae. One i won't remove atleast for now is the network port as i intend to use OPL's SMB functionality.

WatsuG i have one of those too. It's the one i play with. thanks.
 
Well i actually managed to remove the port just by twisting it back and forth for a minute. Most of the pins were desoldered already so it was easy! Motherboard still powers on. I have no way of testing video at work but i reckon it must have survived the operation.
 
Since (by the look of things) you've managed to get all the shield metal off, the only part still holding the port on is the pins, of which 3 are GND, so they don't heat as well as the others.

My suggestion is that you use a heat gun or a blow torch (OMG be careful if you do, and don't let the flame touch the board), to just get all 12 pins molten at once and then just use a pair of pliers or something to pull the port free.

Afterword, provided all went as planned, use the sucker to clean the holes :)
 
that's savage!

i have blow torch but i'm affraid it won't be precise enough! Maybe i'll try cutting the plastic on the port with the dremel and then pull the pins on by one with a little heat.
 
So i actually cut the port off with the dremel. Now i have the pins upright so i might end up soldering directly to those and/or remove those not needed.

Anyways

Now i think i might be missing something or actually killed the motherboard already.

I trimmed the motherboard and followed this image posted on the begginer guide:

1XJ1Fphh.png


Ended up with this. Just soldered the wire directly without a switch to see if the console still turns on.

kmwQ854h.jpg



Nothing happens, i expected the fan to start working but that didn't happen.

Did i cut too much or am i missing something?
 
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