Project Trinus build log (+help needed)

DefectX11

Active Member
OK- here is my project, finally coming together after a year of putting it off. I recently picked up cash and the LCD panel, so I'm well on my to completing this.
I do have some questions at the end, just general stuff, including batteries (yes, batteries) and paint options. Thanks for any help.

Completed-
-PS3 slim obtained
-motherboard cleaned and re-thermal-compounded
-case obtained
-LCD obtained
-LCD controller board bought (shipping)

Still need to get done-
-Case cleaned, painted and drilled for mount + holes for exhaust and connections
-PS3 USB ports desoldered and re-wired, and mount to case
-batteries (ARG)
-hook up LCD controller board
-mount internal components
-pretty it up
-create top case, mount keyboard


First picture- my case. Not yet painted
DSC01836.JPG


Second- case internal
DSC01837.JPG


Third- PS3 board fitted into case- work out nearly perfectly, the only issue being the Blu Ray drive is SLIGHTLY off to the side. I may mount it behind the LCD for extra room.
DSC01841.JPG


Fourth- PS3 board, antennae, and HDD upgrade
DSC01838.JPG


Fifth- the LCD panel. From a Dell 6400 or something like that. Some person dropped it off to be recycled, I picked it up for free. Deal of the century, 'specially with that 1440x900 resolution (BF3 doesn't run in 1080p anyways)
DSC01839.JPG


Sixth- everything together. I assumed the LCD panel would fit, and I try to never assume. It fit perfectly, with the corners resting perfectly on the rounded inside edges of the case. Couldn't have worked out better. the PS3 fits well, with room to spare. Maybe this is the case to get for a PS3p?
DSC01840.JPG



No on with the questions-
-What design should I put on it? I've stuck with a deep purple and black colour combo.
-Would it be useful to mount the DVD drive in the lid, behind the LCD? Is the extra space worth having for batteries?
-How should the batteries be hooked up to the PS3? I'm worried that if I hook it up to the 12 prongs, and I plug it in, the system will get half the power it'll need. (half to batteries, half to system)
-What should I do with the extra space? I feel something should be done.

--UPDATES--

No questions at the moment. batteries are not going to be used, and case will not be painted (besides a logo). The board will be moved to the centre to balace the weight, and the Blu Ray is going to be officially mounted behind the LCD panel.

--/UPDATES--

Thanks folks. I'll update as I complete things on the check list.
 
That case is Dang sexy for a PS3 already. Don't paint it.

Unless you have a BEAST of a battery, it's not even worth starting to muse about with a PS3/Xbox/Xbox360

viewtopic.php?p=120513#p120513

basically that... but multiply all my numbers by 2.5

This is, of course, assuming worst case power consumption.
 
What kind of LVDS controller are you using/do you have? They're always a pain to find/to get to work.
 
Found a seller online for the LVDS cable + controller board. the board is programmed to my model, and the LVDS cable is guaranteed to fit. Not sure on the specifics but i will update when they come in.

And don't paint it? I was either going to do something minor, or just refinish the entire case. It's got bumps and scratches, plus that Video 8 logo doesn't match. the Sony logo does though!

Batteries... Well I'm getting some huge ones. I still have to drop by the battery shop and get a quote from them. If it isn't bad, and I can get at the least an hour (slightly more than 18Ah) then than'll be fine. I'm going to incorporate a handy-dandy switch to turn off the charging of the cells to maximize life. Chances are this won't be used in too many portable situations.
I could lower the consumption and go for an LED mod. I'll see how that goes though


Also- what is the smallest Xbox laptop made to date? I happen to have another smaller case, so I figured...


In general news- I'm officially mounting the Blu Ray drive behind the LCD panel. Gives me more room in the actual case, and it helps to support the panel and prevent flexing. plus it's unconventional
 
OK new question- Would it make any reasonable boost in the battery life if I grab the PS3 model with the 40nm RSX chip? I've got a slim, but with the 65nm RSX.
 
DefectX11 said:
OK new question- Would it make any reasonable boost in the battery life if I grab the PS3 model with the 40nm RSX chip? I've got a slim, but with the 65nm RSX.
I have no idea what the exact power difference is, but if you're looking at and hour with your current PS3, you might add a couple minutes. I would really rethink having batteries. Why even bother with probably doubling your weight and cost if you'll rarely use it away from an outlet, anyway? I'm all for doing stuff because you can, but spending $200-400 for batteries that will last an hour for something that likely won't be used away from an outlet just seems silly to me. Heck, that would pay for the Xbox laptop you mentioned making.

Are you sure your LCD isn't already LED backlit? The one in my E6400 is, so I know its at least an option (same res, <3 matte screens).
 
It's Fluorescent. See: inverter at top of screen.

Also, I doubt it would make a significant difference when you have that power hungry monster inside. From what I understand it hardly makes a difference with anything other and a NOAC or the like

But, yeah, $400 extra for an hour of battery = not worth it.

Not only is that barely any playtime, but with that extra $400 tacked on, you would never have a CHANCE at selling it if the need arose.
 
Alrighty then, batteries scrapped (for now). I'll see what I can do with the extra space.
Still haven't heard back from the company with my board. I suppose they are still enjoying their Chinese festival of some sort.

Also- I'm meeting up with my step-dad's bosses (husband and wife). For some reason, they ADORE me, and they have 3 CNC machines. I'll see what they can do for me, because I've got an idea for exhaust vents and speaker grills...
 
OK- yet another question- Would I benefit from using stainless steel or a rigid plastic for the top case and LCD frame? I've got a choice of either, nearly the same price (cheap, so money is no matter)
 
It depends.

Stainless Steel if you want that look, and have a way to mount everything to it.

With a rigid plastic, you can just epoxy/abs cement things together and make it work.

You MAY be able to epoxy flax to Stainless Steel, but I wouldn't trust it quite as much. That's just me, though.

Basically it comes down to how you want it to look and how you plan to mount everything.

Also, check the thickness of the Stainless Steel. If it's that cheap, I somehow doubt it will be rigid enough. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's stiff. Ever used tin foil?
 
Tin foil...
Not in a mod!

I'll probably stick with plexiglass or some other rigid sheet of plastic. It'll be easier for me to mount it in. I'm just worries that I'm going to need to get inside, and if I epoxy the top cover on I'm screwed. That's where the metal comes in- a handful of mounting brackets on the inside and the topcase could simply screw into place- plus, it's aesthetically pleasing (to me)
Arg. I'll sleep on this decision and see what I come up with in the morning.
 
You can still do the mounting brackets with plastic.

If you want the stainless look, but the metal is too thin to be useful, you could always pay double and have both. Plastic for support, tin foil stainless steel for looks.
 
OK, I get it. I'll check how thick the stainless steel is.
Even though I haven't slept metal seems to be the better way to go for me. Better ability to be precise when cutting holes.
 
OK- another question. I finally have the LCD controller board on it's way from HK.
of course the LCD needs power, and according to the seller, 12V 4A. Could I just wire that off the PS3 power supply? It outputs 12V on those prongs.

Thanks again.
 
I doubt the ps3 power supply puts out an extra 4 amps. So no, you'll need to power them separately.
 
Darn. I'll conjure up something then. I might just wire up a 12v 4A adapter to the input line.
What would be the worst if I try off the PSU? I remember when I powered my PS2 with my PSP adapter. it didn't output sound.
 
I suppose. Like I said, I'll just wire the adapter to the input. the case I'm using, with the lack of batteries has loads of room to fit everything. I was almost considering to add in a PS2, but that's overkill.
last question- where would be the best place to wire the audio from?
Duh. The av multi out. I've got to invest more time in thinking before asking.
 
DefectX11 said:
OK- another question. I finally have the LCD controller board on it's way from HK.
of course the LCD needs power, and according to the seller, 12V 4A. Could I just wire that off the PS3 power supply? It outputs 12V on those prongs.

Thanks again.
I would be willing to bet that they just read that off the power supply. My E6400 uses under 20w total with the screen at full brightness. While it is LED backlit, I would be willing to bet that your screen and controller will use about 1A at 12v, worst case would be 2A (unless the controller is a complete power-hog). I don't know how much the PS3 can output on the 12v line or what it uses, but you'll be a lot more likely to be able to steal 1-2A than 4A.
 
OK, so I'll test both. If wiring it directly to the prongs doesn't work I've got my plan B.

And an update on the tin foil metal- I'm going to have a shop cut me some. Buying from some guy who isn't giving me the gauge isn't working. Go figure...
 
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