NintenGO 64

[Sonic4freedom]

Welp, here we go, been working for a minute now.

Motherboard (Top):


Motherboard (Bottom):


Case:






Progress so far:
-Playstation 2 joystick installed (EDIT): Working
-3.5" screen (buttons relocated and screen ready to be placed)
-Superpad 64 buttons relocated and ready to be placed
-Case almost finished (Frankencaseing FTW.)
-Audio amp ready for install

Still waiting on those bloody batteries. The screen came BEFORE everything, and it was sent from CHINA!

Screen:


Audio amp:


My fear right now, is that there is no way for me to make sure the board is still working until the batteries come in. and even with that, there is the hump of making a (working) step-down regulator. If this board is screwed cause of a trace, imma be real pissed. But non-the-less, I have 3 more Mobo's I can work with and be more careful with. It's the Cart Relocation that irritates me.

Mockup pics:




The Portablizer:


I'm still a bit rusty since my first portable, so any words from the wise is totally appreciated

For my first N64, I must say, i'm impressed with how small it is.

 

[Sonic4freedom]

Hey guys. Okay, I ran into a problem. I got all the things I need except for the batteries (Screen, 3rd party controller, etc.) So I put in a Gamecube joystick on my Superpad 64, and it worked, except, when I move in certain directions (Right, Left, Up/Left, Down/Right) Mario starts to either walk, and even tip-toe. I don't need to elaborate how annoying that is, any tips? also, and, uh, actually, the Gamecube joystick broke (bottom cap came off), so I put a Playstation 2 Analogue on instead. Same problem. Mario walks/tips toes, and in Battle Tanx, well, you get the picture. Help me.

Another question, I ordered 2x 3.7v 4700MaH Li-ion batteries (on the way) So when I wire them, I put the 7.4v line to the 12v line, this I already know, but my question is, since I was never able to make a WORKING step-down regulator (Either to little volts or to many volts come out. I've ordered so many, TI.com probably knows my SSN! XD ) can I just run one of the batteries 3.7v to the 3.5v line? I mean, it's easier, and I dont have to bother with making another faliure if a SDR. Will it perform differently? Drain faster? Fill me in with Info! Thanks, Pics soon. Case almost finished ( I LIKE it).

 

[βeta]

Love the case.

 

[mymixed]

First I want to say WOW. Great Franken Case! Anyway this is a theory but it might make your PS2 stick work.

Just adjust the pots until it works right.

Great Job,

Ian

 

[mymixed]

Also, Could you post some scale sizes? I'm wondering if its as small as I think it is.

 

[zeturi]

I'm really liking that case, too. Do you have a model number for the router? Or at least, what the rough dimensions of it are?

Also, to answer your question about that voltage for the 3.3v line, you will need to input 3.3v. I believe the absolute max is 3.4v, but I would try to go for 3.3v or 3.2v. If you feed 3.7v directly into it, you're looking at a fried n64.

I know nothing about joysticks though, sorry. I will definitely be watching this portable, I really like the case.

 

[Sonic4freedom]

Imageshack! AWAAAAAAAAYY!!!:











The Case was a Westell Verizon DSL Modem Model: A90-7500 15-07. I lurk MR and BH and BF alot. So much so, that I now have "Franken Vision" . I walk around my house, and at any given time, I look around the room, and when I see certain things, I say to myself "That would make a great case for a portable system"

 

[mymixed]

Dude Awesome Just Awesome

 

[Sonic4freedom]

Comparison to my wittle hands :

 

[ShockSlayer]

I like it.

 

[J.D]

I like it.

 

[lyberty5]

Can you get a close-up picture of your screen's board and the tact switches?

 

[Royal]

I like it.

 

[Mister Hat]

*

*

 

[mymixed]

As I said before AWESOME

 

[Sonic4freedom]

I woke this morning and tripped over a box on my porch as I got the mail. I opened the package and did an :


Batteries are here!!


PCB board for the batteries








Batteries Ahoy!


Charger.





Now I already put EVERYTHING in the case (Batteries, Mobo, controller board, Screen board) and the case still snaps closed. It's a REAL tight fit, but it feels sturdy that way. It also has a healthy weight to it as well. Now, because I had to baby sit today, all I had time to do this morning was wire the batteries to the PCB board and create connectors for the charger and the batteries. Quick question. When I want to charge the batteries, do I just hook it to the (+) and (-) output coming from the PCB board?

Another question. The Playstation Joystick is STILL giving me problems and I REFUSE to use the stock joystick that came with the Superpad 64 controller, so please, help me.

 

[XCVG]

Yeah, to the plus and minus where the power goes out from the PCB.

Is it a Superpad or a SuperPad Plus? The SPP is the weird shaped one. Do you have it wired correctly? Some controllers require you to wire one side and the middle of the potentiometer to one terminal and the other side to another connection. Others require you to connect the two outer terminals separately (usually to power and GND) and the middle is read. Hard to explain, but I'll draw a diagram later and it will be clear.

 

[Sonic4freedom]

Thanks dude! anytime of help is like SUPER appreciated. I'll take a picture of what I got. Hold on.

 

[XCVG]

In the first picture, the labels are pretty generic. In the second configuration, + and - might be switched but that's about it.

 

[Sonic4freedom]

Definetly Super Pad plus. Any advice on how to get that Playstation joystick to behave? Even the Gamecube joystick does it