Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Intense.
Intense.
Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II" Complete!!! Update Pg.11
- Thread starter Downing
- Start date
Downing
Well-Known Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Well, was home stick from work today, didn't get out of bed till almost 1PM! Must have needed the rest. Anyway, when I started feeling a bit better I went to the basement and found that my attempts at painting the buttons on the back of my case was failing. So I'm going to have to re-sand some spots and hit it with white again. Not a bit deal, but just another delay
As for other progress, I took some pics of the mounting job of the buttons and control stick. I found that using these little nylon spacers with a notch cut out of them where it meets with the plastic tact holders works great because you can fill the whole thing with hot glue and in doing so, secure it to the casing and the tact holder in one fluid motion. Looking below you can kind of see what I mean, but it was a lot easier and stronger than face mounting them to the bottom of the tact holder!
You can also see that I got new speakers that thin and fit perfectly...however the sound quality is terrible. They only cost a dollar to begin with so I got what I paid for, but I need something exactly that size (25mm if I'm not mistaken, or about 1") and sound clean. Any suggestions would be great!
Overall image of the front. Everything but the D-pad is mounted.
You can see the spacers and how they stand up a bit above the tact holder, but it was simply cut in a bit. Very strong hold this way.
Closer view of what I was talking about. Had to get a bit more creative with the stick because the stick cover would hit the spacers and stop it from moving the way it should. This method worked though and is holding nice and level.
This is how the finished profile will look. Not to bad.
The back with the fan mounted. Although you really can't see it, the buttons need some major work, which will involve some more sanding and such, but I have to wait for the coats to dry a bit more. We'll get it looking better soon enough.
Feeling pretty good about this so far, but the real test is going to be getting the whole thing together evenly. I have a feeling some major controller modification is going to play a part in this which is unfortunate, but the way it is. More on that when I get to it.
Well, was home stick from work today, didn't get out of bed till almost 1PM! Must have needed the rest. Anyway, when I started feeling a bit better I went to the basement and found that my attempts at painting the buttons on the back of my case was failing. So I'm going to have to re-sand some spots and hit it with white again. Not a bit deal, but just another delay
As for other progress, I took some pics of the mounting job of the buttons and control stick. I found that using these little nylon spacers with a notch cut out of them where it meets with the plastic tact holders works great because you can fill the whole thing with hot glue and in doing so, secure it to the casing and the tact holder in one fluid motion. Looking below you can kind of see what I mean, but it was a lot easier and stronger than face mounting them to the bottom of the tact holder!
You can also see that I got new speakers that thin and fit perfectly...however the sound quality is terrible. They only cost a dollar to begin with so I got what I paid for, but I need something exactly that size (25mm if I'm not mistaken, or about 1") and sound clean. Any suggestions would be great!
Overall image of the front. Everything but the D-pad is mounted.
You can see the spacers and how they stand up a bit above the tact holder, but it was simply cut in a bit. Very strong hold this way.
Closer view of what I was talking about. Had to get a bit more creative with the stick because the stick cover would hit the spacers and stop it from moving the way it should. This method worked though and is holding nice and level.
This is how the finished profile will look. Not to bad.
The back with the fan mounted. Although you really can't see it, the buttons need some major work, which will involve some more sanding and such, but I have to wait for the coats to dry a bit more. We'll get it looking better soon enough.
Feeling pretty good about this so far, but the real test is going to be getting the whole thing together evenly. I have a feeling some major controller modification is going to play a part in this which is unfortunate, but the way it is. More on that when I get to it.
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
You are cndesus.
You are cndesus.
Downing
Well-Known Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Did make quite a bit of progress these past few days. Started to wire up the screen to the board, as well as installed the speakers and got my battery's PCB swapped out and the cells charged! It's looking like everything is going to fit, just barely, but it should fit! Pics below.
The head phone jack all wired up to the screen.
As well as the Video, R and L audio. Using 30 AWG wrapping wire, so it's quite flexible and solid which is what's needed in this case because most of this is going to be stuffed under the board.
Here the power wire is working on getting done up. Using 22 AWG for this, even though it's against my better judgment as I usually use nothing less than 18 AWG for power.
My battery after testing, all wired up and putting out 8.4V. Perfect!
These are the new speakers in place in the bottom corners. Yes those are speakers. They are called Multi-layer Piezo Speakers and they are 23mm wide by 26.5mm Long and only 1mm Thick! If these work, man the possibilities are endless! I'll let you know as soon as I get some sound out of them!
Did make quite a bit of progress these past few days. Started to wire up the screen to the board, as well as installed the speakers and got my battery's PCB swapped out and the cells charged! It's looking like everything is going to fit, just barely, but it should fit! Pics below.
The head phone jack all wired up to the screen.
As well as the Video, R and L audio. Using 30 AWG wrapping wire, so it's quite flexible and solid which is what's needed in this case because most of this is going to be stuffed under the board.
Here the power wire is working on getting done up. Using 22 AWG for this, even though it's against my better judgment as I usually use nothing less than 18 AWG for power.
My battery after testing, all wired up and putting out 8.4V. Perfect!
These are the new speakers in place in the bottom corners. Yes those are speakers. They are called Multi-layer Piezo Speakers and they are 23mm wide by 26.5mm Long and only 1mm Thick! If these work, man the possibilities are endless! I'll let you know as soon as I get some sound out of them!
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
hidiosoman
Active Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
I must be mistaken... I thought Piezo Speakers were only used as tweeters for high frequency sounds...
How do they sound with the n64?
EDIT: Just read you haven't tested them yet... Also, laptop speakers are really small, I had my eyes on MBP replacement speakers... they are cheap, too.
I must be mistaken... I thought Piezo Speakers were only used as tweeters for high frequency sounds...
How do they sound with the n64?
EDIT: Just read you haven't tested them yet... Also, laptop speakers are really small, I had my eyes on MBP replacement speakers... they are cheap, too.
Downing
Well-Known Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Well, I was looking at the specs and they have a frequency range of 300 - 20K hz, which I found to be a surprisingly low range for such thin speakers. I'm still skeptical that I'll get any bass from these, but from what I understand, this design is new this year, so I figured I'd give it a shot. At $5.50 a piece though I think they should do well. But I'll let you know. Hoping to get that far tonight!
http://www.puiaudio.com/pdf/APS2714S-R.pdf
Well, I was looking at the specs and they have a frequency range of 300 - 20K hz, which I found to be a surprisingly low range for such thin speakers. I'm still skeptical that I'll get any bass from these, but from what I understand, this design is new this year, so I figured I'd give it a shot. At $5.50 a piece though I think they should do well. But I'll let you know. Hoping to get that far tonight!
http://www.puiaudio.com/pdf/APS2714S-R.pdf
FierceDeity
Active Member
Basement_Modder
He who mods in thy basement.
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Haha, By the 3rd post I was thinking, "He's gonna be scared of me from now on..."cndowning said:Oh, and B_M, thank you very much for your continued enthusiasm, I really do appreciate it!
Downing
Well-Known Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Well I probably should have guessed that it wasn't going to work on the first shot! Got all the power and signal wires wired up, flipped the switch and nothing. The screen turns on and is getting 7.5V, and the board is getting powered the way it's supposed to, however, I think the problem is of course, my TI regulator that for the life of me, I can never get to work right on the first shot! It's putting out 3.125V to the board, which I know is not enough. The 3.3v line is very sensitive and I think that's the issue. But I can't figure out why it's only putting out 3.1 as all the connections are tight and in the right place. Dunno, will trouble shoot tomorrow, but at least it's wired up now! Then comes the fun part, wiring up the controller!
Well I probably should have guessed that it wasn't going to work on the first shot! Got all the power and signal wires wired up, flipped the switch and nothing. The screen turns on and is getting 7.5V, and the board is getting powered the way it's supposed to, however, I think the problem is of course, my TI regulator that for the life of me, I can never get to work right on the first shot! It's putting out 3.125V to the board, which I know is not enough. The 3.3v line is very sensitive and I think that's the issue. But I can't figure out why it's only putting out 3.1 as all the connections are tight and in the right place. Dunno, will trouble shoot tomorrow, but at least it's wired up now! Then comes the fun part, wiring up the controller!
hidiosoman
Active Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
That should be enough voltage for the 3.3v line. It's not THAT picky.
That should be enough voltage for the 3.3v line. It's not THAT picky.
Downing
Well-Known Member
Re: Downing's 3rd N64p "The Nimbus II"
Strange thing I noticed though as well that my blue LED was not turning on either. I had it wired to pin 7 and my power for the 12V line was on the original Power Pad 6, so presumably the power would run down that and turn on the LED but I'm thinking I might be a bit off in my logic. I'm gonna try disconnecting the LED entirly though to see if that might be causing the problem because if it's drawing too much current (which it may be as it's a 12V LED designed for a car battery) that might be choking the power supply and stop it from getting to the board components....that's making more and more sense that more I think about it.
But I have the regulator and it's putting out 3.1, so that should be fine. I have that wired up to pin 6. That should work right?
I'm also going to try bridging the power pins together because I think that might be an issue as well.
Strange thing I noticed though as well that my blue LED was not turning on either. I had it wired to pin 7 and my power for the 12V line was on the original Power Pad 6, so presumably the power would run down that and turn on the LED but I'm thinking I might be a bit off in my logic. I'm gonna try disconnecting the LED entirly though to see if that might be causing the problem because if it's drawing too much current (which it may be as it's a 12V LED designed for a car battery) that might be choking the power supply and stop it from getting to the board components....that's making more and more sense that more I think about it.
But I have the regulator and it's putting out 3.1, so that should be fine. I have that wired up to pin 6. That should work right?
I'm also going to try bridging the power pins together because I think that might be an issue as well.
