nothing happening

[neverused]

Ok, so I have my N64 all wired up to a psone screen, a 54000 mAh 7.4V battery (fully charged), and the usual TI regulator for 3.3V... but nothing works. I've had this exact same problem on two boards so far. Even when I hook the N64 to a regular tv, the screen shows a slight, dark red and then nothing. I've tried the tricks such as removing everything and turning it off/ on and checking my cart slot relocation. I've been forced to go through and redo the cart slot relocation, which I'm in the process of doing, but I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions or comment? Thanks!

neverused

 

[jleemero]

Jumper Pak's in, a game's in, a controller's plugged in?

A lot of people miss the Jumper Pak..

 

[neverused]

two different jumper packs and an expansion pack have been tested too

 

[Basement_Modder]

Is your game facing the right way? It may sound stupid, but Ben almost gave up on his first SNESp when it didn't work until he found that to be the culprit.

 

[ShockSlayer]

clean your conttacts, and clean beween your contacts.

SS

 

[grossaffe]

Is your game facing the right way? It may sound stupid, but Ben almost gave up on his first SNESp when it didn't work until he found that to be the culprit.

ah yes, I've had this problem working with a naked SNES cart. It fits in perfectly but the system won't power on. very deceitful.

 

[eurddrue]

Is the jumper pak in backwards? The pins face towards the ram, which trips a lot of people up. And, does the red LED come on? Also, take your multimeter and check the voltages coming off of the battery, off the 3.3v reg, and the voltages that the board is getting, you may not be using thick enough wire for your power.

 

[Basement_Modder]

I got my TI card working off kynar. I just needed 2 wires per connection, but its thinner then some other solutions.

 

[neverused]

Is the jumper pak in backwards? The pins face towards the ram, which trips a lot of people up. And, does the red LED come on? Also, take your multimeter and check the voltages coming off of the battery, off the 3.3v reg, and the voltages that the board is getting, you may not be using thick enough wire for your power.

The jumper pack was correct each time I tested it and with each one I used. The voltages going to the N64 were 8.4V and 3.3V respectively; also, I was using 20 gauge wiring for the power. I'm really starting to think it may be my cartridge slot relocation, but I'm in the process of redoing that on another board that had the exact same problem, except that one worked fine the first time and then just stopped. As a side note, the led always comes on just fine and I am absolutely positice I've never crossed the power lines. I know that if I ever get this right, it'll have been something dumb that I missed. rays:

 

[eurddrue]

Hmmm, *ponders* have you checked every connection? It is possible that you have one or more cold solder joints that aren't making a good enough connection. Look at your joints and see if they're dull or shiny. If they're dull, reheat them and make sure that when they recool that they are shiny and like inverted mirrors.

 

[neverused]

Hmmm, *ponders* have you checked every connection? It is possible that you have one or more cold solder joints that aren't making a good enough connection. Look at your joints and see if they're dull or shiny. If they're dull, reheat them and make sure that when they recool that they are shiny and like inverted mirrors.

Mirrors eh? I'll give that a shot. I also read, either here or on BenHeck, that Bacteria stated that ribbon cable can break easily within the insulation, which may also contribute to my problem. The other relocation that I am in the process of doing is with solid wire, so it won't fray and if it breaks, I might actually know without using a multimeter. Thanks for the tip though.

 

[Basement_Modder]

Yeah, i'm not the only person who has found that IDE cable can snap inside the plastic sheath if you have the strands as individual strands especially. In my case, I use a wire stripper (as i'm sure most people do), this tends to slightly stretch the wire, not an issue with normal cable, but IDE cable is so weak that it can just snap - when the plastic sheath on the wire goes back to normal, the wire might touch each other and work, however when you then wire something else, and move that wire, it might break the connection. I know, because it happened to me a while back - took ages to track the fault!

That's why I use solid wire, mostly kynar.

 

[Basement_Modder]

Only one use I found for kynar wire - button contacts. It isn't good for data transmission on chips, can't use it for power, can't use it for cart relocation. Not reliably anyway. That's what I find, any how.

For RCP wiring, it can't be beat. I used it for the 3.3v line power. Just used 2 wires per connection. Worked just fine.

 

[XCVG]

How do you solder anything BUT Kynar wire to an RCP?

I plan on using some solid wire I bought a while back to do the cart slot if I ever find an N64 cheap enough.

 

[Basement_Modder]

How do you solder anything BUT Kynar wire to an RCP?

I plan on using some solid wire I bought a while back to do the cart slot if I ever find an N64 cheap enough.

Somebody on Benheck (Jleemero, methinks.) Sells bare N64's for 7 bucks a piece. Can't get much cheaper then that. (Unless you pay 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, or 1 dollar.)

 

[themadhacker]

Can't beat free.

 

[Basement_Modder]

In some thread a few years back, someone said they got paid 10 bucks to clean out a poll barn, and could take what they wanted. They found an NES with a bunch of games and stuff. It was epic.

 

[eurddrue]

Can't beat free.

Getting payed to take other people's crap. *smile*

 

[Basement_Modder]

Can't beat free.

Getting payed to take other people's crap. *smile*

In some thread a few years back, someone said they got paid 10 bucks to clean out a poll barn, and could take what they wanted. They found an NES with a bunch of games and stuff. It was epic.

Just said that.

 

[eurddrue]

*lol* I didn't bother reading page 3. XD