Need tips for soldering to IC chip or alternitive.

[xy007]

Ok so its time for me to solder the triggers/abxy and analog sticks back to a cut board of a gamecube contoller and I need some tips for soldering to the main IC.

Ok so first I was going to solder to the vias vs the IC but I could not get the solder to join with the via's copper. So I tried soldering to the IC and ran into a couple of problems.

First, what kind of materials do I need / you recommend.
ex. type/size of solder, flux, tip size?

Second, where is a good place to buy these items? I just ran out of de-solder braid, and my local Radioshak seems to be a phone store more than a electronics part store. I also need them shipped pretty fast, maybe amazon since I have amazon prime?

I have never used flux before, maybe that would help my via problem?

Here is some images of what my situation is:

With my current materials I accidently bridged two of the IC pins together, and luckily got them unbridged:

This is the size wire I am using, (sorry don't know the gage):

These are the two soldering tips that I have:

The only solder size I have:

Also I have a 60W ~300-~800F adjustable iron, is there a recommended temp I use so that I don't damage the IC? I have been using 602F so far.

HD links to images: http://imgur.com/a/s9yZ0
Thanks.

 

[legofan623]

Size of solder should be 0.5mm or smaller, but it's not necessary If you tin your wires a bit thick.
Keep with the smallest/thinnest tip you have.
And dear god please !!!USE FLUX!!! It can work magic for stubborn soldering jobs. I personally have a little can of it and I use a tiny paintbrush or toothpick to 'paint' the flux onto the leads and wires.
A good place to get this stuff is Radioshack, but if finding a Radioshack is as easy as finding a living dinosaur like it is here in Washington, then Amazon is a good bet:

http://www.amazon.com/Solid-Solder-...8&qid=1438629458&sr=8-2&keywords=0.3mm+solder

http://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Paste-F...2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438629499&sr=8-2&keywords=flux

I'm not sure exactly what temperature your iron should be at, you'll have to find out what works best. If you have it too hot it can take up to three or four seconds for the joint to cool, and you don't want that. Try and use test pads whenever possible too. Also if you really aren't feeling up to the job, blargman might be able to sell you a very nicely cut and wired PCB.

 

[xy007]

Size of solder should be 0.5mm or smaller, but it's not necessary If you tin your wires a bit thick.
Keep with the smallest/thinnest tip you have.
And dear god please !!!USE FLUX!!! It can work magic for stubborn soldering jobs. I personally have a little can of it and I use a tiny paintbrush or toothpick to 'paint' the flux onto the leads and wires.
A good place to get this stuff is Radioshack, but if finding a Radioshack is as easy as finding a living dinosaur like it is here in Washington, then Amazon is a good bet:

http://www.amazon.com/Solid-Solder-...8&qid=1438629458&sr=8-2&keywords=0.3mm+solder

http://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Paste-F...2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438629499&sr=8-2&keywords=flux

I'm not sure exactly what temperature your iron should be at, you'll have to find out what works best. If you have it too hot it can take up to three or four seconds for the joint to cool, and you don't want that. Try and use test pads whenever possible too. Also if you really aren't feeling up to the job, blargman might be able to sell you a very nicely cut and wired PCB.

Is this solder equivalent? It has a 1 day shipping option.
http://www.amazon.com/Ya-Xun-finest-qua ... lder+prime

 

[legofan623]

Yeah that looks fine, just stay away from lead-free.

 

[xy007]

Yeah that looks fine, just stay away from lead-free.

Ok I got that solder in today, does the solder I just ordered contain flux already or will I have to apply flux every time I use that size?

And also when soldering to the IC do you recommend I just add tin to the wire and fuse it to the IC pins? or should I also add a small amount of solder to the IC pins as well?

 

[DuHasst0]

Flux will be needed to sooner that right.

 

[Bush]

Most (all?) solder contains flux, but you really want some separate flux to coat the pins. You can also look up kapton tape if you need to solder to a tight pitch. Honestly, if you just tin your wire, add some flux to it, and the pin, then lay the wire on top and apply a few secs of heat, the flux should sort of "suck" the solder onto the pin without you having to tin it. The 1st party controllers have a pretty weak PCB that will shed pads and traces if you get it too hot. It can be kinda tricky to solder to, so if you can adjust your temp, a lower one might help.

 

[xy007]

Holy crap why have I never used flux before!!!!!!!!!!

Ok thanks for tips, I ended up doing what Bush said and that seems to be the best way for me. I tested out what I have so far but there seems to be some issues that are related to floating connections.

So far:

 

[Bush]

Yeah, it's some thermodynamic-heat transfer tomfoolery that comes from tree sap. I like it. It supposedly evenly wicks the heat, and thus the solder, all over a little area around where you place your iron. With a lot of connections you can get great joints with just the iron, but for anything finicky or if you need to guarantee a perfect connection, flux is your friend. If you do any sort of connector relocation (memory cards, N64 cart slot, SD card), make sure to use flux. It's also good for using a small iron on high heat surfaces like big power connectors or regular sized potentiometers.

Also, you can just glop it on whatever. Use it as liberally as you like. Just wipe up the remaining oily solution because it is acidic and can gunk up your connections/collect dirt.