public-pervert
Well-Known Member
Neat job, man!
GameCube Fusion, rev 4.
- Thread starter Ashen
- Start date
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
Thx guys, we'll see how it all works out. 
Came home from work last night and de-boxed my shoulder buttons mold. I carefully cut all the tape at the seams and pulled the foam board apart:
This is what I got out of the box:
Pour looked pretty good. Time to remove every last bit of clay and trim up any unnecessary undercuts left behind. The clay pulled out pretty easily:
Cleaned the mold up with some isopropyl alcohol and re-boxed the whole thing again. Then I applied a thin layer of petroleum jelly to all of the silicone so that when I pour the next batch the two halves of the mold won't bond together. Silicone apparently bonds to just about nothing, except itself. So this part is critical. I then super glued my pour spout and vents to the parts:
Then re-pour:
We'll see what we've got tonight. With any luck, I'll be able to cast some buttons.
Came home from work last night and de-boxed my shoulder buttons mold. I carefully cut all the tape at the seams and pulled the foam board apart:
This is what I got out of the box:
Pour looked pretty good. Time to remove every last bit of clay and trim up any unnecessary undercuts left behind. The clay pulled out pretty easily:
Cleaned the mold up with some isopropyl alcohol and re-boxed the whole thing again. Then I applied a thin layer of petroleum jelly to all of the silicone so that when I pour the next batch the two halves of the mold won't bond together. Silicone apparently bonds to just about nothing, except itself. So this part is critical. I then super glued my pour spout and vents to the parts:
Then re-pour:
We'll see what we've got tonight. With any luck, I'll be able to cast some buttons.
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
Got home tonight and de-boxed the whole shoulder button mold and pried apart the silicone. Even with the petroleum jelly layer on there it was still kinda tough to pull em apart. Everything went well though and this is what I've made:
I removed the wooden dowel vent plugs and the straw I used for the pour channel along with the original buttons and then cleaned up both halves of the mold with isopropyl alcohol:
Mixed up some plastic, held my breath and poured it in. 15 minutes or so later I had these:
Trimmed up:
The hinges didn't form well, I probably should have put little vents on them. But its not really a huge deal. The buttons are perfect replica's otherwise. I'd call it a success.
I removed the wooden dowel vent plugs and the straw I used for the pour channel along with the original buttons and then cleaned up both halves of the mold with isopropyl alcohol:
Mixed up some plastic, held my breath and poured it in. 15 minutes or so later I had these:
Trimmed up:
The hinges didn't form well, I probably should have put little vents on them. But its not really a huge deal. The buttons are perfect replica's otherwise. I'd call it a success.
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
looking smooth 
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Ashen stop
ashen pls
ashen pls
public-pervert
Well-Known Member
Man, this is pretty nice! The replicas looks almost perfect. I'm excited!
lyberty5
Well-Known Member
Looking amazing. Aren't the shoulder buttons a bit thick? I mean they're filled aren't they?
And anyways, could you enlighten me ? you superglued tubes before molding, and I don't know if you remember, but bungle had put many toothpicks all over the mold.
What's the point in that?
I'm not questionning the point of doing it I'm just geniuinly curious
Good luck molding the whole case. Looks like you've got it down so far.
What was the overall cost of all the solvants and products?
And anyways, could you enlighten me ? you superglued tubes before molding, and I don't know if you remember, but bungle had put many toothpicks all over the mold.
What's the point in that?
I'm not questionning the point of doing it I'm just geniuinly curious
Good luck molding the whole case. Looks like you've got it down so far.
What was the overall cost of all the solvants and products?
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
They are N64 shoulder buttons, so they're as thick as those are and yes, I filled in the undersides of them. It seemed like it would be easier to fill them that way when casting.
The tubes, dowel rods and toothpicks that you see me and Bungle using are for venting. When the two halves of the mold are all closed up the cavity inside is filled with air. If you don't create these vents when you make the mold, when you pour in the plastic resin the air has nowhere to go and the part will not fill correctly. Putting in all those dowel rods, toothpicks, straws or whatevers creates small gaps in the silicone mold where the air can escape (vent) while you pour in the plastic. This works pretty much the same way in injection molding, though the venting is done differently on a real injection mold.
The only bad thing about this method of venting is that once the air from that part of the silicone mold is all pushed out the vent will fill with plastic. That means every single vent has to be de-molded with the part. It makes it much harder to get the part out of the mold.
The total cost of all that Alumilite stuff was like $335 shipped. Really not too bad if it all works out. If it fails though, that's gonna hurt a bit. :/
The tubes, dowel rods and toothpicks that you see me and Bungle using are for venting. When the two halves of the mold are all closed up the cavity inside is filled with air. If you don't create these vents when you make the mold, when you pour in the plastic resin the air has nowhere to go and the part will not fill correctly. Putting in all those dowel rods, toothpicks, straws or whatevers creates small gaps in the silicone mold where the air can escape (vent) while you pour in the plastic. This works pretty much the same way in injection molding, though the venting is done differently on a real injection mold.
The only bad thing about this method of venting is that once the air from that part of the silicone mold is all pushed out the vent will fill with plastic. That means every single vent has to be de-molded with the part. It makes it much harder to get the part out of the mold.
The total cost of all that Alumilite stuff was like $335 shipped. Really not too bad if it all works out. If it fails though, that's gonna hurt a bit. :/
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Ashen does not fail.
You have a legitimate case for suing the company is something goes wrong. Call them up, let them know you are Ashen, they will correct their mixtures and ship you the new stuff.
SS
You have a legitimate case for suing the company is something goes wrong. Call them up, let them know you are Ashen, they will correct their mixtures and ship you the new stuff.
SS
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
Got the two case halves all primed and clear coated and ready for some silicone sexual adventures. I got a little ahead of myself here and already had the front hot glued to a piece of posterboard and had already added the "guide pins" to the front half poster board. Here are the two halves:
As I said the front is already mounted to a piece that looks like this:
I did this so that the parting line of the mold halves are where the actual parting line of the case halves will be, This will make flash trimming and vent placement easier when I pour the other half of the silicone and cast the parts.
Here is the back of the case sitting on the posterboard cutout, as you can see the parting line should end up pretty seamless (hopefully):
For the front half I went around the entire perimiter and hot glued the case to the posterboard. This will prevent the silicone from seeping through when poured. I also hot glued a piece of lexan in the hole for the screen. Since it is such a large opening I wanted something sturdy here:
I then taped off all the small holes from the inside, or put clay on the inside of some of them:
Boxed it in and sealed off all the seams of the box with some hot glue:
Then, shortly afterwards something like this happened:
As I said the front is already mounted to a piece that looks like this:
I did this so that the parting line of the mold halves are where the actual parting line of the case halves will be, This will make flash trimming and vent placement easier when I pour the other half of the silicone and cast the parts.
Here is the back of the case sitting on the posterboard cutout, as you can see the parting line should end up pretty seamless (hopefully):
For the front half I went around the entire perimiter and hot glued the case to the posterboard. This will prevent the silicone from seeping through when poured. I also hot glued a piece of lexan in the hole for the screen. Since it is such a large opening I wanted something sturdy here:
I then taped off all the small holes from the inside, or put clay on the inside of some of them:
Boxed it in and sealed off all the seams of the box with some hot glue:
Then, shortly afterwards something like this happened:
ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Sexy Ashen arms pouring what I assume is liquid poptarts.
It's like you can see into my dreams~
SS
It's like you can see into my dreams~
SS
LOCtronicz
Formerly known as zenloc
Niceeeeeee!!!!! Dangit I want one of those cases!!
Ashen
GameCube Révolutionary
If all goes well Zen, if all goes well.
Last night I came home from work and got the back half of the case all taped off and boxed in and poured it the same way I did the front half of the case. I didn't really take and pictures or anything because its pretty much the same process I outlined yesterday and showed for the front case half.
This morning I de-boxed the front half and removed all of the "guide pins" and stuff blocking the holes.
Here it is de-boxed:
A little isopropyl alcohol (to remove the hot glue) and pulling and prying later and I had this:
Now comes the really fun/tedious part where I get to spend alot of time building up the wall thickness of the case with clay and adding the pour spouts and air vents before I can pour the other halves:
I'll be working on this stuff during the stream on Monday for sure. Stay tuned!
Last night I came home from work and got the back half of the case all taped off and boxed in and poured it the same way I did the front half of the case. I didn't really take and pictures or anything because its pretty much the same process I outlined yesterday and showed for the front case half.
This morning I de-boxed the front half and removed all of the "guide pins" and stuff blocking the holes.
Here it is de-boxed:
A little isopropyl alcohol (to remove the hot glue) and pulling and prying later and I had this:
Now comes the really fun/tedious part where I get to spend alot of time building up the wall thickness of the case with clay and adding the pour spouts and air vents before I can pour the other halves:
I'll be working on this stuff during the stream on Monday for sure. Stay tuned!
orangeziggy84
Active Member
Impressive!
public-pervert
Well-Known Member
Excited!
