Elephant64 Worklog

Fixed the R button. Previously I wasn't getting continuity so I had to take the whole thing out and put a new thingy on and put it all back on. :dahroll: No point in pics because it looks exactly the same.
 
YAP64 is going to have not one but two analog sticks, all face buttons, a unique start button, dpad, L and R, and not one but two Z buttons. That said, it's huge overkill. You probably can do without the dpad.
 
Got my screen today! :D But it's a little strange. Its a verge screen, so It's pretty much the same as my other screen...but It has some differences. First off It has an extra section in the top right (the LED section) but I know it's NTSC. There is an LED but it's on the detachable section. Also there seems to be a missing regulator. The one in the lower left (sort of) where youre supposed to solder the 7.5v line to in the cutting diagram in the screen section of the forum, is gone. Instead the power line was soldered to where the circle is. There are also some extra capacitors.

20100308153930.jpg
 
OK! Relatively big update :mrgreen: Finished all the controller buttons :D Messed up on the Dpad so I had to cut out the bit from the controller and glue that in there :( but I don't really care about looks for this portable (If you haven't noticed by now) The important part is that everything is very comfortable to hold. I did see this thread....and it's so much better than mine!! :gonk: Anyway..here are some pics. BTW, is it ok to put glue on the back part of the screen (The white part the the backlight lights up).

Here is the front...lovely isn't it?
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Here is the bottom. Those big squareish holes are where the controller ports will go. They're so big because I was originally planning to do something else with the controller ports but I changed my mind.
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Here is the left side. Big gamecube shoulder button (Elephant Ear! :awesome: ) is Z and green button is L. I might switch this but I probably wont.
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This is the right side. Again. Gamecube shoulder button = R
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Here is the back. It will have the cart slot which will slide down the back gameboy stylee (like most portables do)
20100308220029.jpg
 
How the Heck are you supposed to hold that with the shoulder buttons on the SIDE?!
 
A few questions :confused:
1. Is it ok if I hot glue the back of the LCD (white part)
2. Does an expansion pak need a heatsink on it? I'm not relocating it and the little chip next to the port has one on it. I'm also going to use a fan.
 
ToastBucket said:
A few questions :confused:
1. Is it ok if I hot glue the back of the LCD (white part)
2. Does an expansion pak need a heatsink on it? I'm not relocating it and the little chip next to the port has one on it. I'm also going to use a fan.

1. No idea. Someone else will swoop in and save the day...I think..
2. The expansion pack (for the most part) needs a heatsink. A great one to use that's easy is one of the TO-220 (I think that's right? Heatsink for 7805 and 7808, etc) cases. I'd also recommend using some new thermal paste for all the heatsinks you use (don't leave it stock, that's hardly effective).
 
ToastBucket said:
A few questions :confused:
1. Is it ok if I hot glue the back of the LCD (white part)
2. Does an expansion pak need a heatsink on it? I'm not relocating it and the little chip next to the port has one on it. I'm also going to use a fan.

1. Yes, it will be totally fine.
2. Yes, that little sucker generates quite a bit of heat for it's size.
 
I ripped a fan out of an old laptop but it says DC 5V .21A on it. Can I put my full 7.4v 4700maH through it or will it break?
 
Worst case scenario, you lost a fan that you'll probably never use otherwise, unless you intend to make a Genesis portable that's like...on fire all the time or something.
 
Hmmmm... got the screen mounted in the case and also the Volume and Brightness buttons, but they aren't working and I'm getting no sound. :gonk: I'm using different buttons for the Volume and Brightness adjuster thingies. So I think that the volume was all the way down and I just cant turn it up. Does it matter which way you wire the buttons? It's just so long as it's wired to be on/off right?
 
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