ShockSlayer
Probably SS
Erlex said:Hello.
Okay so everyone has seen SifuF's screen hack in which he removed the bottom of the PSone screen. But it seems no one else has done it that I know of. Once I knew it was possible, I gave it a try using a broken board to trace connections and practice on and low and IGNORE it worked when I did it for real! Like SifuF said, its not very hard. I have some pictures in my SNESp work log of the completed product of this mod in case your skeptical.
A quick note: I know some of you all are currently working on a guide to do this, but I thought since everyone has talked about it and not delivered, I would go ahead and post my process of doing so. This is what I did, and it worked, so there.
So lets get started! The pictures below show all of the components in which you will you need to connect things to, which parts can be removed, and which need to be relocated. This is most of the work right here! I will be referring to these later on.
Front
http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/5632/img8446t.jpg
Back
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/1327/img8445r.jpg
1. Start by removing the components labeled in blue on the front and back of the board. You can just rip them off with pliers or desolder them.
2. CAREFULLY desolder the components labeled with red on the back of the board. These are important! Desoldering the voltage regulator (component #1) is tricky. I heated up the solder on the ground tab until it was completely melted and then ever so gently lifted it enough to where the back is disconnected. Then proceed to desolder the two pins. Removing the two capacitors (components #2 and #3) is not as hard. Just heat up one side of them and gently lift until its disconnected and then desolder the other side. Set these aside for now.
3. Go ahead and mark out on your board where you want to cut. You can see where I marked out the line where I wanted to cut; around there obviously. Take this time to cut the top of the board off as well if you are doing the LED mod.
4. Now to start putting stuff back on. The voltage regulator and the larger black capacitor will need to be grounded. Find an area on the board in which there are no components (I used the right side of the board). Scrape the green paint off with an exact-o knife until there is a descent amount of copper showing. Lay the grounding tab of the voltage regulator against it and solder it to the exposed spot. You may want to use flux. Once it is firmly connected, run some short wires from the two pins back to where they originally were. Now scrape a smaller spot for the big black capacitor. Attach the side without the white rectangle on it to the spot and run a bit of wire from the other side to its original place. The last capacitor is important for your video to work properly. Attach a bit of wire to each side. Attach one end (doesn't matter which) to the top original spot and the other to the spot labeled R3 in the picture. The side is important!
5. Your in the home stretch! (kinda) Anyway start attaching all of your usual connections from your system, batteries and such making sure your attaching to the exact spot indicated in the diagram except for brightness+ and volume+. Speaker Right+ and Left+ are the outer pins on that chip in case you cant tell by the picture. An interesting note, since removing the bottom section of the board severs the +7.5v line and needs to be relocated, I found that the entire top portion of the board, which is the inverter for the original back light, can be by passed just by soldering to the place I indicated. Power savings? Who knows.
6. To hook up volume and brightness control to tact switches, just refer to the picture below.
7. After all of that, congratulations your done! Fire her up and see if you were successful!
Feel free to leave feedback and if this guide needs anything, let me know!
-Erlex
Thanks to Erlex for letting me port this here!
SS
