NintendoBoy 64 advance (Worklog)

Stranger491

Member
I am new to the portable hobby and I have gathered enough courage to start on my first portable. I have been lurking around this website for a month now and been looking on tips and tutorials on how to do it. So I think I am up for the challenge. The major problem that I face right now is the lack of money. Recently I spent my money on a Dreamcast :D ..... Maybe for a future project once or if I get into this hobby.
This is the idea I am hoping to go for:
New64testbody.png

For the controls, I am going to use mostly all N64 buttons but I am going to use the Gamecube analog stick. My skills in wiring and soldering is not that great but luckily, I will have a friend who will help me with That part.
This is the list of things that I have or need.
Stuff I have:
Gamecube controller
Newly built Vacuum Former
N64 (friend has the one we are using)
7inch ps2 screen (Wanting a 5 inch screen but my friend has a 7 inch screen he can give me for free so I may just use that)
Stuff I need:
N64 superpad or 3rd party controller (Luckily have a place near me, that sells old consoles)
Plastic sheets (Found a local supplier)
Wires
Switches.
Wish me luck, I should be working on case soon.... once I get plastic.
 
ToastBucket said:
Beautiful first post. Welcome.
agreed.

You're probably going to end up frying a few n64's, so you might want another few. And a 7 inch screen is massive, and although you're short on cash, you can get 4.3 inch screens on ebay for less than 30 bucks. Your design looks wonderful, I can't wait to see progress.
 
Thanks you guys.
unicycler17 said:
ToastBucket said:
Beautiful first post. Welcome.
although you're short on cash, you can get 4.3 inch screens on ebay for less than 30 bucks. Your design looks wonderful, I can't wait to see progress.
I will try to buy one when I get money next week.
 
I was thinking about that, so I may give it a shot. Is there any extra wiring I need to do to get the cstick to work instead of the cpad?
 
That is a bit difficult and has only worked on first party controllers. You could use a multi directional tact or put mushy tacts under the the plastic dome thingy on the C-stick.
 
ToastBucket said:
That is a bit difficult and has only worked on first party controllers. You could use a multi directional tact or put mushy tacts under the the plastic dome thingy on the C-stick.
Well if it is that difficult to do, then I will just stick to the first c-pad idea and then after I get better I will try the C-stick thing.
 
Is there a way to use the GC L+R and Z triggers? Cause I heard from somewhere that the GC triggers act differently.
 
the l and r triggers sense if you're only pressing down on the button a little bit or all the way. Since the n64 doesn't do that if you just wire up the l and r normally on the gc buttons and ignore the extra fluff it should work fine unless im mistaken.
 
On your design, I would put the A & B buttons above the C buttons. That'd make it more comfortable
 
In order to not fry N64's when building your first N64p, double-check EVERY connection before power-up, and check for bridges with a multimeter. (they're $10 at Harbor Freight. No excuse to not have one.)

Also, spend extra money for a weller or better radioshack soldering iron. I recommend getting a higher wattage iron (like 40W) as it makes soldering easier, quicker, and lasts longer. You can literally flow solder this way and make beautiful shiny joints with wires. If the solder doesn't cool instantly, you know it'll be strong.
 
Basement_Modder said:
In order to not fry N64's when building your first N64p, double-check EVERY connection before power-up, and check for bridges with a multimeter. (they're $10 at Harbor Freight. No excuse to not have one.)

Also, spend extra money for a weller or better radioshack soldering iron. I recommend getting a higher wattage iron (like 40W) as it makes soldering easier, quicker, and lasts longer. You can literally flow solder this way and make beautiful shiny joints with wires. If the solder doesn't cool instantly, you know it'll be strong.


Quick question. How do you check for bridges with a multimeter ? :confused:
 
Basement_Modder said:
In order to not fry N64's when building your first N64p, double-check EVERY connection before power-up, and check for bridges with a multimeter. (they're $10 at Harbor Freight. No excuse to not have one.)

Also, spend extra money for a weller or better radioshack soldering iron. I recommend getting a higher wattage iron (like 40W) as it makes soldering easier, quicker, and lasts longer. You can literally flow solder this way and make beautiful shiny joints with wires. If the solder doesn't cool instantly, you know it'll be strong.
I do have a pretty good soldering iron and I believe I have a multimeter, but I will double check.
3MZ said:
On your design, I would put the A & B buttons above the C buttons. That'd make it more comfortable
I will think about it. I Redid the front to see how it looks with them replaced. I also included the back part of the device.
New64testbody-1.png

New64testbodyback.png
 
It might proove to be a little too tricky to put that z button on the back of the r button. those gc r and l buttons move down a ton on the inside when pressed so you will have 0 room for wiring the z button unless you have a gap or something in between the r and z buttons. just a thought.
 
I meant the z button to be below instead of above like the Gc. It would be like that when I do it. They will be facing the same direction.
 
are the buttons to scale? if you could possibly fit it it might be nice to fit the buttons in the same way they are on the controller (a b with c buttons up and slightly to the right)
 
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