N64 Portable Teaser

genious 7

Member
I'm a big fan of the phrase "Go big or go home". So.... I've being working on my N64 portable and wanted to try something different; a custom printed circuit board just like the one kibble attempted to do over at Ben Heck forums. Anyways, it's definitely not ready yet but a few teasers meanwhile:

Schematic (click here)

Circuit Board (click here). You probably really want to see this.

The first board is the main circuit board (everything but the fully sized cart connector, L and Z triggers, and D-pad). Note the separate board in the corner, which is L and Z triggers. The second board is there to adapt the small 40 pin connector on the motherboard to the 50 pin cart connector. It goes at a right angle to the first board. The last pic shows the board versus a 3.5 inch screen.

Anyways, on to features
-LCD controller on board (click here)
-Battery protection/charger on board
-3.3v regulator on board
-Controller on board (will use an atmega, will have to program it later on to follow N64 controller specs. The protocol is online somewhere for pic)
-Some of the buttons on board (left side is on a separate, smaller board to save money on pcb manufacture)

Likely Questions

*Do you think it will work?
I honestly don't have a clue. I'm particularly worried about crosstalk between signals, as my traces are close together than those on the original board

*Is that schematic accurate?
Hopefully, but again, I don't really have a clue

*Does that thing uses a qfn (no leads quad flat package)?
Yep

*Are you going to use solder paste/oven?
Nope. Hot air for the qfn's, soldering iron for pretty much everything else.

*That looks like a pain to solder
Don't remind me. It will be a real PITA no matter how you look at it.

*When will this be ready?
Not soon I'm afraid. I am currently on Panama (my home country), but I will go to the US in mid-August as I'm studying over there. Once I'm there, Ill get the boards and start soldering. Its a long soldering job (specially if done by hand), and I will do it on my spare time between studying, so it might take a while.

*Will you release the board artwork?
I'm getting the boards made through OSH park. If it works (emphasis on IF), I will sell my remaining two boards (they only sell in multiples of three). After selling the two boards, I'll release the files. (All this will only happen if it works)

*You don't sound really confident
I'm not really expecting it to work. I feel more like I'm playing the lottery and *trying* to get it to work.

Any potential issues
-I have no idea what the "feel" of the smd tact switches I'm planning on using will be
-It may not work at all
-I still need to figure out the case. (I got access to many tools at the university, I just need to figure out where to start. Casework isn't exactly my strength. )
 
That's the most ambitious project I've ever seen for a retro portable console. I'm super excited by this :D
Did you improved the CPLD code for the screen? What's the size of the board? What about make it a bit bigger and implementing a 64Drive on board?

I'm wishing you luck!
 
Did you improved the CPLD code for the screen?

Not really, I haven't touched it since the proof of concept. It will be much easier to work it out on the portable, as I wont have to worry about dodgy connections. I just did the proof of concept to make sure the idea worked before adding it to the circuit board.

What's the size of the board?

The main board is 4.392x 2.915 inches (111.5568x 74.041 mm). Bear in mind it includes pretty much everything, from battery charger all the way to the screen inverter and controller. It also has all the buttons that go on the right side (the 4 C's, A, B, and R). Includes volume keys, screen brightness (two settings only), on/off and start.

It's designed to look "well" with a 3.5 inch display.

What about make it a bit bigger and implementing a 64Drive on board?

I'm going to have to pass on this one for now. I would probably need to go either larger or 4-layer to pull it off. I'll settle with this for now.

**Edited slide show to show screen size relative to board on the last pic.
 
Very impressive! So will it run off of a single cell?

In theory, yes. I might put two cells in parallel to double the capacity, but it 'should' be able to run with only a single cell as well.
 
Definitely want to know more about this project whenever you have some news!
 
Looks cool, hope you can get it working. The n64 design isn't too complex but there are plenty of places you could mess up.
I started something like this some time ago but I switching tools partway through and it got pushed to the back burner.
 
marshallh said:
Looks cool, hope you can get it working. The n64 design isn't too complex but there are plenty of places you could mess up.
I started something like this some time ago but I switching tools partway through and it got pushed to the back burner.

Hey, post whatever you've got, it's nice to now what others have done or tried. I also hope I can get it working :)

Will post whenever I have significant updates. Probably not for a while, as I am soldering it on my spare time and it'll take a while. (Unless you want a bunch of photos with no part-part soldered)

On a sidenote, does anyone have any experience with hot air rework? Can it be used easily to desolder large ic's like the RCP or should I gt myself some chipquick? I have access to a hot air rework station at my college's robotic club. While I've already used it to solder one of the qfn's on the board, I haven't used it to desolder yet. While I'm confident it will work on the smaller packages, I don't know whether it works or not on the larger ones. Advice?
 
You can remove the old qfp's with hot air. Set the heat to 396 C and slowly run the hot air (using 1/4" nozzle) around the perimeter. After about 30 seconds of this, use your smd tweezers to apply leverage gently under one corner. Keep heating. Once it will start to pull loose, sneak your tweezers underneath farther and grab the chip. Don't bend the leads or you'll have a bad time.
Then flip the chip on its top and apply a slight amount of flux to the lead ends and wet them with the iron. You want to take off any solder burrs or bumps that will keep it from setting flush on the new pcb.

new1xh.png
 
Back
Top