L10N37's Gamecube Portable Log

L

L10N37

Member
Hi guys,

Names Lionel.

I have started making a portable GameCube using a few guides on the net, it's so good that all the preliminary work has been sussed out! So far I have stripped the board, used the custom 5 wire power attachment and managed to get a cheap 3.5" screen working perfectly. Today I also hardwired a 64mb memory card onto the board and started on the case (going a modified Tupperware container with heat-sink hanging out the back.

I am going to get my hands on a Wii-key fusion - hopefully this will work fine with my IPL-1 GameCube? (DOL-001 EUR) so It won't have a bulky GD drive taking up space (and chewing power). I should be able to get the container quite thin, but as this is my first build I won't be cutting the motherboard or trying to get it super small.

I have a micro 2x3w Class D amplifier board on the way, along with a potentiometer for volume control and small tweeters. SMD mount micro speakers were pricey and rated at .3w, any information on better speakers would be handy (as in smaller ones that can take a few watts)> I was looking at these ones,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110999654503 ... 1423.l2649

what do you think?
the tweeters were dirt cheap but quite large, though the container should give sufficient space.


Also on the way is a Lithium charging board to charge 4 18650's and case for the batteries, and a battery level indicator LED. Also a sliding switch to replace the power switch and tactile switches for the controller.

Here is a video of the progress, minus the memory which i hardwired earlier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_0wdEfqzg0
It's on +5v instead of 12, so the screens a bit dull and flickery... it's perfect on 12.

Cheers!
 
System can be run on 4, 8 or 12 18650's as this is what the PCB can handle.
Tore open a laptop battery and had it running on that.
:D
The way they are wired it will maintain the voltage but double or triple the life.
Might go with 8.
 
After wanting to upgrade my screen from 3.5' to 5' I realised the modified tupperware container i was going to use as a case won't be big enough to have controller buttons on the side of it.

I was wondering if this would work... I don't have a working AV cable for my non ripped apart GC and I don't want to hack my genuine GC controller, so until another cheapo one arrives/ I get an AV lead or the Fusion turns up etc etc, I can't test this out on a working gamecube.

Any feedback would be good.

azk1.png
 
It can work, but what you could do is cut out the center as per ashen's controller cutting guide, then just solder to where everything should go and you wont need to kill 2 controllers to make one.
 
I found the guide, that's awesome. I didn't realise one chip controlled basically everything ...in the genuine controller anyway. I opened one aftermarket one and it was completely different. I am trying to save chopping up a genuine controller that's all, they are quite expensive. For my next portable which i will be motherboard trimming and relocating everything.. i will probably give this is a go (If i get a cheap genuine) I want my next one to be really small.

I'm just trying to find a way to keep the controller feeling just like a regular controller (although aftermarket) with the rubbery things underneath rather than tact switches.
 
3x0l.jpg

Modified Tupperware idea (cheers bacteria)
Where the lid should pop on is going to be ground back and has a nice curved over lip I can glue nuts to, so the case can be secured with tiny bolts. thinking about putting small hinges on one side so it flips up.

The metal sheet the motherboard screwed to has been trimmed to fit in the case, small mounting pads will be glued to the base so it can be fastened down with screws. Everything should be easy to access if anything needs maintenance.

Batteries were meant to be in a case but I guess I will hot glue them to the top and bottom case sides as there's not that much room.

Memory card wiring may have to be shortened and can be adhered to the side with double sided tape, along with the speakers.

The aftermarket controller I have has a removable faceplate on the front for perfect cut outs to 'frankencase' the controller holes If i can fit it around a 5' screen ...I will go with tactile switches.

I will leave the power connector on for the screen so it can be plugged in and out, and as it has an AV cable for video input, I will solder a female AV lead to the video input so this can also be plugged in and out (rather than direct to board).

Holes to be drilled out either side for airflow across the heatsink (stock heatsink and fan)

Battery indicator LED has been soldered on the opposite side of the 12v input (after the switch).
Green/ Orange/ Red/ Flashing Red - Obviously only works when powered on. Might put a tact switch on to check battery level when the system is down.

I might glue on a 'tunnel' for the air flow across the board.
 
If you've read the 'HELP, WKF!!!' post, you know i ripped a connector off a wiikey fusion (seemingly almost the last one in stock in the world) and had about 5 attempts at wiring it.

that's put a halt on any progress.

As for my stock nintendo AC-DC adapter, I've just received my replacement and it works a charm.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400396174956 ... 1497.l2649

12v, 5a draw max. Comes with the Female socket to wire straight to your power-board.

even came with the correct plug for my countries power socket. :D I've chewed through about 16 batteries when i was trying to get the fusion working. (no AC adapter to recharge them)

Any luck, I'll have a new wiikey fusion or wasp fusion soon enough (same main actel IC, different PCB). Once I replace the GD-Drive (or mini dvd drive) with a fusion, I can finish the project :)

Have a new fuse, if the stock fuse was small, this ones microscopic. It's the same value but it's the size of a pen dot.

Killed the 12v rail off the powerboard, had an 'extension' lead on the screens power lead and the exposed bit shorted against the heatsink. Now it's taped up ^_^ This only killed the sound and I had to wire around it so it's all good (But I guess the12v rail isn't protected by a fuse now). I was experimenting as the fan would only start 25% of the time without me having to give it a push or quickly turn the system on and off twice to 'jump start' it. Too much amp draw from everything hooked up to it? Have changed fans and moved it to the 5v rail and now it's perfect and starts every time. Spins a good speed too, had a 220ohm resistor between it and the 12v rail to reduce speed but like I mentioned wouldn't always start spinning and that resistor was getting really hot.

Neatened up the little amplifier and memory card, received SD Gecko adapter for Port B.

The next update will be a video when the system is finished.

Left to do:

WKF
Case
Controller
Charging PCB/ Batteries
Switching headphone jack
Eliminate slight buzz noise in the audio (ground loop?)

http://imgur.com/a/JpWMr

Update: Wasps arrived today, can tell by the tracking number on the slip, missed the post office by 5 minutes :D
 
Nice :awesome:

Work on the case looks cool! Well done!
For the controller, I advise you to have a common mass, flux and tin save!
Good luck for the future!

Multi.
 
Most buttons done, just start and L/R triggers to go. Then sand, fill and paint/clear coat, mount it all up and cut out the power/ SD slots and batteries etc.
http://imgur.com/a/JpWMr
pictures in there, too high res to add direct to forum.
(Could have skipped the C stick board, just combines earths... but it looks good haha)
 
getting closer,

No where near perfect... things landed in the paint... touched it before it was dry... lol things like that. Screens crooked too AND i got some isopropyl alcohol in it..
SO dumb to spray that all over the screen so now it has some white blotches, but i guess you can hardly notice and that's how it's staying. Definitely guna make another one.

Custom regulator needs to made to save some room on batteries, using an old 3 pack charger from sony laptop battery. New pix in album.
 
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