3ds analog>psp>else?

[S5114]

Does that mean that all the resisters people say you need are doing nothing?

 

[Mario]

Since mine came in the mail. They require nothing hooked up to work correctly on an official GC controller AND give a wider range than the psp stick does.

I'm pretty sure all controllers that use a xx resistance pot use them as voltage dividers.

Either way, i'd go with the 3ds nubber seeing as how they can be gotten cheap from DX now. Everything about them is just slightly better than the psp nub.

See, I told you guys. If you won't listen to me, perhaps you'll listen to Ashen.

I found a 3DS stick on DX, but it doesn't have a cap. Is there one with a cap, or do they sell caps separately?

 

[SonyQrio]

See, I told you guys. If you won't listen to me, perhaps you'll listen to Ashen.

I've favored them all along, and I think that now we've figured out how to hook them up (resistors or not) we should all use them. Did Ashen just say you could buy the 3DS stick rubber on DX??!??!?!!

 

[ToastBucket]

Hmmm. So if the N64 uses it's stick as a voltage divider, it will work with a 3DS nub no mods necessary? Do we know which controllers work as voltage dividers?

 

[S5114]

I found a 3DS stick on DX, but it doesn't have a cap. Is there one with a cap, or do they sell caps separately?

I don't think that they sell the cap, but you could do the thing SQ did where he glued the rubber of a gamecube stick on a psp cap.

 

[Ashen]

Does that mean that all the resisters people say you need are doing nothing?

In my experience, pretty much yes.

I installed anywhere from a range of 100ohm to 1.5mega-ohm resistors inline on the datalines while working on my fusion micro and it had absolutely no effect on the actual range that the nub will produce.

Now, that being said I'd put money on it that when SS was tweeking his controller that he had it plugged in the whole time while the system was running. This will seemingly produce a varying result every time you add a resistor BUT once you power off the system and power it back on the controller will inevitably re-zero itself and you'll be back to square one.

But who *Can'tSayThisOnTV*ing knows, I may be wrong. XD

 

[S5114]

If you're right, then that helps a BIG amount of people mainly me though...

 

[Ashen]

Just a bit more info on all of this.

The max range of a regular analog stick in the GC pad testing program I use is -111-+111 on both axis's. To make this a bit more clear, when you start the program the analog will be centered at 0. Then, depending on which way you tilt the stick the numbers will move - or + in the respective direction.

Using an official GC controller and also one of the cheap Classic Controller knockoffs to test the max result I get with a 3DS stick is in the -90's-+90's range on both axis's. This is using 3.3v supply power.

If I bump the supply voltage up to 5v I get a range of roughly -111-+60 on both axis's. So it makes the analog unbalanced.

PSP nubs using both above mentioned controllers and an input of 3.3v give a range of about -65-+65 maybe hitting -70-+70 sometimes. Little more than half the range of a regular analog stick. This being said sometimes when you boot the GC using PSP nubs certain directions don't register enough to provide full function in certain games. It all is going to depend on what the game was programmed to accept as "far enough" to register a "full press".

For my fusion micro I did a variety of wacky flax to correct this and I may have actually damaged the controller board while *Can'tSayThisOnTV*ing around, so for me to explain in detail how I accomplished getting them to work may not be reliable. This being said, It works right most of the time, but I do have to reboot sometimes to get certain games like Wind Waker to like the PSP sticks and the range they provide.

Hope that all helped clear some stuff up that I may have left out of my explanations.

 

[ShockSlayer]

I have spent the last few hours wrapping my head around this and I need that program. Link?

Here, I'll give you these for it:

Herma is hyper-intelligent and he's helping me, I am learning a *Can'tSayThisOnTV*ton but I will solve this or I am not the godDang ShockSlayer anymore.

SS

 

[Ashen]

Pretty sure this is the one I'm using. Good luck man, I spent more hours than I would've liked pissing about with those PSP nubs.

http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewto ... ?f=4&t=427

 

[Ashen]

Double post sorry.

Just wanted to make it clear. Each time you make a change to how you have things hooked up, you'll need to unplug the controller and plug it back in so it can re-zero itself.

Also, dont put more than 5v supply power through the stick. Its bad for the controller. XD

 

[ShockSlayer]

Noted. Also, the benefit of testing with a wavebird is that there is a nice little power switch right there that lets you reset the controller. And yeah, you owe me some money.

SS

 

[Ashen]

XD

That is one advantage of the PSP stick over the 3DS stick. You can take them apart without destroying them. Next time I order some I'll ship some off your way.

 

[S5114]

So you'd still have to re-zero it on an n64 also?

 

[Ashen]

Yes, really the 3ds stick gives close enough to full range that you shouldn't have to worry about messing with it though.

PSP sticks will require some screwing with to get right.

What needs to happen (with a psp stick that is) is that a higher supply voltage needs to be input and then balance the corresponding output to the datalines by installing resistors between them.


EDIT:

So for the sake of it, and because I'll eventually have to do it anyway for the Fusion Micro rev. 2. I spent a few hours today messing with the PSP stick, installing resistors and varying input voltages. What I've found once again is that the best solution for the PSP stick is to use a 4.4-4.6v input voltage. 5v unbalances the sticks to much and gives a range only of 60ish on some of the axis's. Dropping the input voltage to 4.4-4.6 seems to still unbalance the axis's but its enough that the range on all axis's is at least 80+ which seems to be enough for all the games I've tested on. Wind Waker seems to be the MOST sensitive to having a low range on certain axis's. So if you're testing this yourself that's a good game to use. Or you can use some homebrew gamepad tester also.

What this all amounts to is that if you're using PSP sticks you'll have to regulate a voltage line just for the sticks, which sucks IMO.

Ashen's Final Verdict:

PSP Stick < 3DS Stick

Its to bad the 3DS sticks wont fit in a PSP case. :/

 

[ShockSlayer]

XD

That is one advantage of the PSP stick over the 3DS stick. You can take them apart without destroying them. Next time I order some I'll ship some off your way.

Oh, no, I didn't mean because I opened a 3ds stick; it was actually really easy, and a few dabs of superglue and it's back to working fine. I was talking about, "Now, that being said I'd put money on it that when SS was tweaking his controller that he had it plugged in the whole time while the system was running."

I'm kidding, of course. You don't owe me anything.

Anyways, I talked a whole heck of a lot with herma last night(Up till 4 in the morning, it's 3 in the afternoon now and I just got up, ugh.) and I have a bunch of things to test and try, but I've essentially figured out most of how it works, now it's all about the testing. My goal is to get a bigger deadzone(because of how the nub recenters, I'll explain that later) and full range. Theoretically, anything I find should work similarly to the PSP stick.

SS

 

[S5114]

Thanks for your work SS!

 

[Ashen]

I'd bet if you just bump the input voltage up a bit that you'll get full range SS. Say around 4v maybe, would be my guess. I'll try tonight when I get home.

 

[ShockSlayer]

We'll find out. Range isn't so much of an issue to me as deadzone.

SS

 

[Ashen]

Are you having issues with creep then?