the rgb nes

Drakon

Active Member
As I'm sure a lot of people on this forum already know the nes/famicom outputs a nice looking composite video signal at best from the stock system. I got a bit tired of using this blurry mess of a video signal so I searched around the internet for information on how to remedy this annoying issue. Luckily there is a fix! However....this requires you to buy a kinda hard to find and not always so cheap arcade board...... So the first thing you need is a playchoice pcb that has a working ppu (picture processing unit chippy...... thingy)

Here's the board (this is the dual moniter version but I'd assume a single moniter one would work too)

playchoicedual.jpg


And more importantly, here's the chip you'll be needing

superppu2.jpg


I've read that you can also use the ppu chips from a vs tennis or vs duck hunt chipset but they may be a different revision of the ppu and I also heard that the different revision has garbled graphics on one side of the screen.

The mod is a good chunk of work. You need to remove the original ppu chip from the nes pcb and attach your rgb ppu. The pin 14 15 and 16 of the ppu are the red green blue jets so keep them disconnected from the pcb. I also disconnect pin 17 because it seems to be a seperate ground for video. I soldered the ppu connections to a 40 pin ic connector on a piece of breadboard so here's how it looked after it was all wired up

allwiredup.jpg


Then I added some glue and built a cartridge slot that works much better

neshalfcase.jpg


The video signal out of the ppu is unamped so you have to build yourself an amp. I designed an amp that brightens the signal perfectly by combining a few different amp designs that I found on the internet. Since I'm using s-video I just amped the brightness wire and left the colour at the original saturation. The colour is a tiny bit weak but still looks fantastic on my tv. Of course you could always amp the rgb wires but I figured that it makes more sense to make just one amp instead of 3 and I was fine with how the picture looks. Also I have to add a capacitor to my sync line for my picture to display right on my s-video encoder. I used a 220 uf 10v cap with the negative leg pointing towards the encoder board but I found that any cap works for some reason. Also a lm1881 sync seperator chip fixes the sync and removes the need for using the cap. But the cap was far cheaper.

You also have to be careful with how you wire up the grounds of your amp and the video circuit and you even have to be careful with how you wire the ground for the sound from the system otherwise you can end up with a picture like this

hpim0927.jpg


I found that using pin 20 of the ppu as video ground really cleans up the image.

So here's the difference between composite video from a stock nes and s-video from my nes

badwood.jpg


megaman2wood.jpg


Pretty big results. The playchoice is a massive system and wiring it up for my supergun would be a mega pain since I've read that it outputs inverted colours. And if you build a socket for your ppu you can always stick the ppu back into the playchoice pcb if you ever want to use that again. On the playchoice pcb the ppu is socketed so you can easily remove it and put it back. The rgb ppu doesn't have 100% the same colour pallette as the regular nes. I heard it makes a very very small collection of games unplayable. Any lists of unplayable games I could find were all games that aren't popular at all. From playing games on my system I'd say the pallette is about 97% the same as a regular nes. And the few spots where the colours are different don't ruin the experience at all. This is probably the best use for a playchoice pcb and an old nes that I could find. This mod also will work on a famicom.
 
Nice! And yeah, certain VS PPUs can be used. So you're taking the RGB and encoding it into s-video?

I don't see why the breadboard and massive amount of wires was necessary though.
 
I really don't think component video is that much better than s-video. Yes I'm encoding it to s-video. The breadboard and massive amounts of wires I didn't do at first. At first I soldered the socket straight to the nes pcb but the picture had issues like the above screenshot. So I decided to add wires between the pcb and the socket but I didn't want a socket sitting on nothing so I stuck it on a small piece of breadboard. This way I could disconnect certain pins of the ppu by simply snipping a wire and this proved very useful in finding ways to clean up the video issues I was having.
 
Bino Gas said:
Wow, that turned out great! What you need to do now is convert the rgb signal to component instead of s-video.
I was wondering, would something like this word to convert an RGB signal into composite?
http://www.howtoconvert.co.uk/howrgb2component.htm

The only reason I ask is because it mentions SCART connections, which I know are Europe. I don't know much of anything about video signals myself, so I'd love it if this happens to work.
 
zeturi said:
I was wondering, would something like this word to convert an RGB signal into composite?
http://www.howtoconvert.co.uk/howrgb2component.htm

The only reason I ask is because it mentions SCART connections, which I know are Europe. I don't know much of anything about video signals myself, so I'd love it if this happens to work.

yes that would work. Although it's a big expensive. My rgb nes is wired for scart. All of my rgb stuff is wired through a scart switch into a rgb to s-video encoder board. My encoder pcb was very bare bones but it only cost me like 35$ shipped. I had to wire it myself but it cames with wires and I had to make a case for it but that was all I had to do. Oh yeah and I had to add some resistors to the colour line because the colour was over-saturated. Working in scart is really great though. The scart cable is designed to be easily taken apart and mucked around with. There's even enough space inside of the scart connector to add components. Some of my scart connectors have caps inside of them to get proper sync signals.

just read the description:

"Operates in PAL, PAL M, PAL N, NTSC, NTSC 4.43, SECAM"

it works in ntsc so there you go. My encoder board also has a ntsc/pal switch. Luckily most encoders out there work with both ntsc or pal or sometimes maybe even just ntsc
 
Back
Top