portable gamecube: noobcube

carbsdog

Member
its my first cube and im gonna try and do as little soldering and pulling apart as possible, so itll bee called the noobcube until i think of a better name. if anyones interested in making one use kasars/tchay/shockslayers guide, its amazing


WORKLOG
pulled apart as i said all ports are intact, so the finished product will probably be a lot chunkier than most but it works.

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an extremely large and heavy lappy battery
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everything (with mobo attached to port)
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disc drive minus most unnecessary plastic
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gonna keep the fan (is it necessary?)
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controller with relocated L n R (theyll go on the front

UPDATE: 16/4/11
relocated the potentiometers with liberty5's and bentomo's advice
boy were they fiddly but it got it done. now the challenge comes in attaching them to the case, which im yet to make. just bought a reverse monitor screen, which doesnt have an audio port. it was only $20, so what more can you expect? so i'm gonna cheap out and speakers and instead just have a headphone port for audio. hopefully this will slim down an already chunky mod.
heres a pic of the potentiometers, just simple soldering
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UPDATE (sort of): 20/4/11
my screen came it it's looking nice. now i just need to buy batteries, and im not sure if ive got the right idea. im going to buy 3 3.7 v, 6.4 amp li-po cells. i tested the screen and and 35.5 watts will run it. so if i put the screen and gamecube in parallel to each other, will 35 watts be enough to run the gamecube? ive included a diagram below
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Re: portable gamecube: carbscube

There's already a c-cube. Just saying, It might not be wise to offend Tchay by stealing his cube's name.
 
Re: portable gamecube: carbscube

He'll place the Tchay curse on you. You'll go through 20 gamecubes before making progress.
 
Re: portable gamecube: carbscube

ShockSlayer said:
He'll place the Tchay curse on you. You'll go through 20 gamecubes before making progress.

so it is written...
 
gamecube controllers sense how far you push down the triggers with sliding potentiometers, and have a button at the bottom.... it looks like you only relocated the button at the bottom. And why would you put them in the front???
 
they're goin in the same place as the ds shoulder buttons. also if i dont relocate those little things that indicate how far you push the shoulder button, what are the consequences? cause i tested them and they still register button presses
 
only consequence is that in a few games like super mario sunshine or driving games, you won't be able to adjust for instance how much water is going out, but it would still be playable
 
Yes, you can relocate the sliders, called potentiometers, the hard part is getting them to mount correctly so they won't break.
 
or you could go on ebay and order the third party wii classic controllers for gamecube.... they have a trigger assembly that doesn't immediately fall apart, and could easily be relocated
 
do i need a fan to cool it down, cause my case is gonna be made of wood and i really would prefer it not catching on fire, so anyone who has an answer i would really appreciate it
 
If you read Kasars guide, you'll see that you don't need the controller port board that has the reset switch at all, you can wire everything to the motherboard, so you can remove the reset switch
 
bump!
and a question:
i just need to buy batteries, and im not sure if ive got the right idea. im going to buy 3 3.7 v, 6.4 amp li-po cells. i tested the screen and and 35.5 watts will run it. so if i put the screen and gamecube in parallel to each other, will 35 watts be enough to run the gamecube?
 
turns out shipping is +$100 on battery space, so ill forgo it. im going to use my large laptop battery, but cannot find a pcb with a 3a limit. does anyone know where to get one?
 
okay so after blowing the fuse and replacing it im starting up again. doing the controller wiring i broke some of the tracks. these tracks lead to gold coloured circles. can i solder to these gold circles or am i screwed?
 
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