New 3.7v Custom Regulator - Gamecube

hidiosoman

Active Member
With zenloc's custom regulators you need minimum of 5v for them to work properly. With the new advancements in the modding scene, we can now use 3.7v batteries.

Because of this, we need new regulators from TI. I hate looking at spreadsheets because they intimidate me, but I was wondering what overs are going to use to output the needed 1.9 and 3.3v lines.

The input voltages would range from 3-4.23 volts.

Also, for rumble, I was thinking of using the Wiimote rumble as they are small and use 3v (I believe) and for sound, what do we need to do? Run it through two audio amps or something?
 
Re: New 3.3v Custom Regulator - Gamecube

What the Heck is a 3.3v battery?

Lithium Ion cells are 3.7v, why would you use anything else?
 
Re: New 3.3v Custom Regulator - Gamecube

What you'd be looking for is a buck-boost DC-DC converter.

But why? The GC takes a ton of juice already. Plus doesn't the GC sound suffer horribly on 5V?

(Though I suppose maybe you're thinking of the Wiikey as a GC drive, etc).
 
Sorry, yes I meant 3.7v. Changed the first post.

Yes, sound does suffer, but I was thinking that if I only need one cell now, it would make a smaller portable.

And yes, I am using a Wiikey.

As for the sound, isn't there a way to make the sound better? Or could I use a step-up for the 5v as it only takes a few mA?

Also, would it be better to use 7.4v 5000mAh or 3.7v 10000mAh?
 
Better to use 7.4v. Converting voltage down is always more efficient than going up.
 
I'd use 7.4V as well.

Can't see any real advantages in using 3.7V.
The GC's power consumption is pretty much the same despite input voltage (1.3A @ 14.8V, 2.4A @ 7.4V and so on), so it wouldn't really matter if you use a 10Ah 3.7V battery or a 5Ah 7.4V one.
Not all screens can go that low either I guess.

If you still wish to use 3.7V you could try this regulator

PTH04T240W
Input: 2.2-5.5V
Output: 0.69-3.6V, 10A max

It's a bit bigger than the ones in Zenloc's regulator

20110307002.jpg

The 2 to the right are the ones Zenloc used. The left one is actually a PTH08T240W , but it's the same size as the PTH04T240W

20110307001.jpg


Ruler in mm's

As for the sound, IIRC Zenloc mentioned the sound amp on the GC motherboard isn't actually needed.
If you can find another amp which accepts 3.7V you could solder it right to the onboard amp's input traces.
Not 100% sure about that, better ask him about it
 
Yes, Zenloc has said that you can wire directly to where the L/R audio inputs into the gamecube audio preamp, bypassing it all together IF you are using your own external audio amp. Apparently the audio only becomes distorted when the preamp does not get the juice it expects. Wiring it before it hits the preamp will fix this.

That being said, Theoretically it is now possible (with wiikey) to run the whole gamecube off max 3.3v (3.7v batts) as we really only need the 1.9v and 3.3v lines. The thing about it is that your screen and audio amp will need to be able to take voltages that low also.

Really its probably best to just stick with the 7.4v setup and eliminate the 5v regulator if you want to. I think at the very least your cooling fan will need to be running off 7.4v to keep things cool anyway.
 
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