BlueLemming
Member
I've looked at numerous threads on this site about it and it's all based on the 3DS analog stick, which I do have.
The PSP analog is way easier to hook up, but I've tried both the 3DS and PSP analog and it seems I can only get 80% of range on 3 directions (which is fine) but on the 4th direction it only gets about 50%. It alternates between left or down, depending on which one I've soldered. (I've tried 3 PSP sticks and 1 3DS analog. Still have another 3DS analog I've yet to solder)
I've tried the 3DS analog with the 3025 resistor and 3022 resistor method, but it just reduced the range IIRC. Going to attempt once more. But with no resistors I get the 80/80/80/50% range. It's hooked up to a 1st party GC controller. I got the 3DS and PSP analog sticks from dealextreme, and 1 of my PSP analog sticks came from my psp slim.
The 3DS analog from dealextreme didn't have the 4 copper ports to solder to so I literally peeled off the copper traces from the ribbon, soldered the wire and electric taped around it. Pretty inefficient.. which is why I'm leaning towards the PSP analogs even if they are a crappy alternative.
Edit: Also, at random, up may turn into up-right, and down into down-left. That's how it was last night. Just tested again today, now it's left = left-down, right = right-up. This is all bizarre!
Edit2: I decided to try and figure out the pins myself. I set my multimeter on resistance, tied the black lead to the pin i KNEW was ground, and tested the other pins with the other lead to see which reacted to which axis. Not sure if this was the proper way to do it, but I figured switching GND and V would just reverse the directions. To my surprise, my pinout was totally different than what had been documented here. It seems to be all working 100%. 3DS analog included, and with no resistors and no ghost crawling either. I'll post back here the pinouts once I know for sure it's working properly.
The PSP analog is way easier to hook up, but I've tried both the 3DS and PSP analog and it seems I can only get 80% of range on 3 directions (which is fine) but on the 4th direction it only gets about 50%. It alternates between left or down, depending on which one I've soldered. (I've tried 3 PSP sticks and 1 3DS analog. Still have another 3DS analog I've yet to solder)
I've tried the 3DS analog with the 3025 resistor and 3022 resistor method, but it just reduced the range IIRC. Going to attempt once more. But with no resistors I get the 80/80/80/50% range. It's hooked up to a 1st party GC controller. I got the 3DS and PSP analog sticks from dealextreme, and 1 of my PSP analog sticks came from my psp slim.
The 3DS analog from dealextreme didn't have the 4 copper ports to solder to so I literally peeled off the copper traces from the ribbon, soldered the wire and electric taped around it. Pretty inefficient.. which is why I'm leaning towards the PSP analogs even if they are a crappy alternative.
Edit: Also, at random, up may turn into up-right, and down into down-left. That's how it was last night. Just tested again today, now it's left = left-down, right = right-up. This is all bizarre!
Edit2: I decided to try and figure out the pins myself. I set my multimeter on resistance, tied the black lead to the pin i KNEW was ground, and tested the other pins with the other lead to see which reacted to which axis. Not sure if this was the proper way to do it, but I figured switching GND and V would just reverse the directions. To my surprise, my pinout was totally different than what had been documented here. It seems to be all working 100%. 3DS analog included, and with no resistors and no ghost crawling either. I'll post back here the pinouts once I know for sure it's working properly.
the ribbon cable's trace got cut and the whole thing just fell apart. Not the best 3DS sticks from dx :/. Using a PSP analog for the C-Stick now. Only crawling movement is on the Y axis when moving it up. After pushing up and letting go, it still slightly moves upwards and you just have to push it down a bit. 
