77 El Camino $1000 Should I get it?

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ttsgeb

ttsgeb

Breaker of Everything
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It's a '77 El Camino, runs well, and I need a car... They want $1000 for it, and its from a friend *watches as peoples little red lights start to blink*r t...

What I've found that wrong:
needs brake booster fixed, but can still stop
can be difficult to start
not to great gas milage
cosmetic issues, not rusted, but not lookin' good either
no gas gauge
no a/c
no parking brake *more red lights*

It's either this or spend the next two weeks impound browsing, so I want to know what everyone thinks...

let it be noted that I'm not the kinda person that blames who I bought something from for it not working perfectly...
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I don't know much about cars mechanically, but... you could probably get a better car for $1000. You could get a Honda or something that doesn't require that much work for $1000 and it'd get much better gas mileage, for example.

But... up to you, overall.
 
Keep in mind that I'm in the Memphis car market, cars a more expensive around here...
anything honda comes at about a 10x premium ... it's retarded...
 
I'd say, more than anything, listen to my opinion, and robm's on this, I certainly hope he gives his input.
Both of us are big on cars, to say the least.

And let me tell you, at $1000, I would not do it.
Actually, price aside, I would not do it.
If it's hard to start, it doesn't run fine.
There are many things that could be wrong with this car that you don't know about.
If it were more desirable, if it was something you were quite interested in, if this was a rare opportunity, I would say go get it checked out by a mechanic.

First off, get underneath the Dang thing, lift up the carpet, etc, and look for rust.
Rust is my personal HUGE RED FLAG, I will NOT approach a vehicle with any level a rust beyond a dime spot.

Also, Bondo. Bondo keeps junkers lookin' decent.
Look for Bondo.
Tap parts of the body, grab a magnet and feel for areas that DON'T pull, etc.
There are lots of guides to finding Bondo on a car.
If it's got more than a patch or two, or anything large, I'd avoid it.

"Runs Good" doesn't mean much, and when you hear it from the person selling, it means absolutely nothing.
Run it, Drive it, Listen to it. Feel it shift, feel it's power, feel it turn, and brake.
Determine for yourself how well it drives, and if you're truly interested, I'd trust a mechanic to tell me of anything I can't see for myself.
(Checking the coil on an older vehicle is the first thing I'd do myself, and checking the compression depending on the vehicle. Some I'd let the mechanic do that.)

Also look at it's known problems.
No A/C, why? No parking break, what's wrong with it?

Also, this is me personally, but, Emissions.
*Can'tSayThisOnTV* emissions, I hate emissions, and emissions hate you.
'77 means that thing has to meet emissions to be legal to drive.
And if you buy it, get it checked, and you can't legally drive it, you're SOL.
You've just bought a vehicle, and now you need to pay for repairs before you can even drive it legally.
Emissions piss me off.

Now a bit about El Camino's.
'77, means you've got either a 350, 400, or 454 cubic inch.
Now, I REALLY doubt that's thing's rocking a big block 454.
Chances are, sadly, it's the 350.
And actually, being a '77, it COULD have the 305 they added in '76.
FIND OUT THOUGH.
If it's the 454, and the compression's good, I'd hop on it, because the big block is money even if the rest of the car is flax.

FIND OUT THE MODEL.
Yes, it's an El Camino, and it's a '77.
FIND OUT IF IT'S THE CLASSIC!
If you gave us a picture of the FRONT of the Dang thing I could already tell you, but with just what I see there, I can't determine it.
If it's the Classic, it's worth more, not a lot more, in fact, almost negligibly more, but it is worth more.
Honestly? I say that as a parts car.
The Classic had different headlights, etc, that are ever so slightly more obscure than the normal ones, meaning they're worth nickels and dimes more.

Plus, it could be an SS.
I can't tell if it is.
It's probably not.
But it could be.
It's probably not though.
But let's "Pretend" this IS the SS, has a 454, runs good.
Then $1000 is a steal even if the body ain't too great.

But seriously, being the dick that I am, I wouldn't touch it just because of emissions.
I don't like that.
I cream for speed.
And I don't want no catalytic converter or fuel injection.
I like Carbs, tail-pipes without mufflers, and the smell of gas on a hot day.
 
It's got a 350 w/4 barrel holly carb and a 350 turbo transmission, I've driven it a bit already, the drives well is my opinion...
Once it's started, which isn't an issue compared to my last truck, it idles great, running it, it doesn't give issues, and gets up to 40 (highest speed I could legally get it where I was) without a problem, It accellerates and turns like it is weightless, handles beautifully, and due to the brake booster issue, it takes a bit of effort to stop. We already plan to replace that if we get it, though. It's automatic, and I didn't even notice it shifting, no sounds, no jerks.
Minimal if no bondo, I've looked at it, and I know what bondo looks like.. It has a few small rust spots, and I have a mechanic lined up to look at it.
The brake booster being broken is a pain in the ass, but it will stop. The A/C doesn't work 'cause the compressor is behind the driver's seat... I don't care for it anyway.
Main reasons I'm looking at this car: I need a car, the friend needs to get rid of it and needs the money...


as for the front end pic:
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I know jlee's already given his opinion and whatnot, but my meager opinion is don't let the fact that he needs it gone and needs the money be a factor in your decision. If the car isn't good for you, don't take it just to help him out. As mean as that sounds, you'll regret it if you do in most circumstances.
 
also, price is 1k for me, 2k for anyone else for this same reason.

We are planning to drop by unannounced tomorrow so he doesn't have a chance to start it up before we get there, so we can know just how well it does on a cold start.
 
If you do get it, get a carb rebuild kit, complete filter and fluid change, a new booster and master cylinder, and the Haynes manual. Luckily, Chevy 350 parts are dirt cheap.

Is the hard starting problem an issue with the starter motor or fuel delivery?

I'd do it for $850-900, considering the work it needs to be reliable and the fact that it's an automatic. (Slushbox in a classic? Bleh.)

EDIT: Oh hi Pagebreak, you just had to follow me here too huh. :facepalm:
 
Offer him $500, explain that it needs a lot of work.

Pimp it out and give it a new paintjob.

Sell for profit!
 
epicelite said:
Offer him $500, explain that it needs a lot of work.

Pimp it out and give it a new paintjob.

Sell for profit!
Click to expand...

You try offering $500 for something that they want $2000 for, but brought the price down to $1000 for you, and see how seriously you are taken.
 
ttsgeb said:
epicelite said:
Offer him $500, explain that it needs a lot of work.

Pimp it out and give it a new paintjob.

Sell for profit!
Click to expand...

You try offering $500 for something that they want $2000 for, but brought the price down to $1000 for you, and see how seriously you are taken.
Click to expand...
you must remember, this is EE. he has never been taken seriously, so these things dont occur to him. ;)

I wouldnt buy it. but i also have no need for the car i own, so i dont exactly place a high value on these things.
 
Update:

Went by again today to look at some more things, didn't have any problems starting up, except that it started in low idle.
Noticed that it has seat covers, which I actually view a good thing, because the seat covers are crap, I'd rather have the torn up seats beneath em.
a few spots of bondo, needs new primer, nothing I havn't handled before.
 
Jlee's and my opinion will differ on the subject of rust because I'm from the rust belt. Our new cars have rust :awesome:

It's not considered a bad thing here if a car has Bondo, if it's done well. Just look for rust in bad areas like Jlee said, in the floorboards and such. Those have a tendency to rust out around the seat bracket area, and there's not anything you can do with that but have new floorboards welded in. That's not a bad thing to have done, it was going to cost me about $600 when I was going to have it done to one of my Firebirds, but it's a '77 Camino. Probably not real worth it.

Everyone's said basically the same thing, but, if a junker is what you're looking for, then a junker you will get. The good thing is that the El Camino is just a standard, GM luxe liner mobile. Their parts are cheap and very readily available. Brake booster is like, 40 dollars. The carb's probably around ... well, 180 being a feedback carb, but still. ANY carb from a junkyard chevy will do just fine. A complete tune-up will run you just under 80 bucks.

What's NOT cheap, but certainly readily available, is repair labor charges. It's now averaging about 80 to 90 dollars an hour. If you're not handy with a wrench (or 20,) I'd suggest you learn - any old car will put you in the poor house if you don't do the work yourself.

Around here, for a running El Camino, $1000 is more than fair. I take it that's 160K on the speedo? Not 260k? (or just 60K?)

Finally, get a look at any steel lines you can readily see. Brake lines and fuel lines, to be specific. Particularly at the rear axle where the rubber center hose attaches to the rear differential, where the two brake lines split out to the wheel cylinders. If you see big chunks of rust where steel line should be, be prepared to replace some brake lines. On a 30-year-old car, that's a very real concern, at least around here. I've sold so much brake line this past month it's not even funny.
 
It just sold to someone else, they came by with $2000 today... No more need for the topic, feel free to lock.
 
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