We need one, so here it is. crap$bh

Official Gamecube Cooling Solutions

First off, the best solutions I can come up with are from ADDA:
http://www.pchub.com/uph/brand/-203/ADD ... spare.html

amazon link to get arctic silver - this can get Modretro moneyz right?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/ ... dition=new

Next, applying arctic silver thermal compound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation ... feature=iv

Great place to get ANY size copper you want!
http://www.stormcopper.com/
^ just email them for a custom size and thickness (and they can make the copper really thick if you want it)



Now, I have quick question. Does this fan blow up or to the side? For my next portable, I will need a fan+heatsink unit that blows the hot air out to the side.
http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/88-6194 ... -Fan-.html?

Oh, be careful with the 5v fans from ADDA. If they go above 5v they will fry. You will see smoke come Haven't tested 7.4v though....


Heating is pretty much the LAST obstacle for tiny GC portablizing. We conquer this baby and we are set!

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

Better place for Arctic Silver :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002E ... B0002EQU6C (This is an affiliate link, Use it!)
5$ Shipped
And Isn't ModRetro an Amazon Affiliate now?

EDIT: I think that fan blows out to the side since it's from a laptop.

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GCpMp Worklog

okay thx I changed the link. Its about 5.95 but whatever, it can get Modretro money I think..

I hope you are right about the fan. If it blows up then it will be useless in my portable.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

You mean cooling? Playing it would be a good way to heat it.

If that fan doesn't blow to the side, its because you hooked the power up backwards. I don't think those fans would even move air if they spun the other way.

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For heatsinks, a stock Intel CPU Cooler heat sink ripped out of the plastic fan housing may work well, the only problem is it will only touch one of the 4 important chips...

This, just rip the heatsink out.


Would it work?

EDIT: Tchay, This fan http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Cyclone-Blo ... =pd_cp_e_2 blows outwards for certain, if its of any help.

EDIT 2: 12Gram Arctic Silver vs the normal 3.5g ones. http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Lar ... 25&sr=1-62

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GCpMp Worklog

^ quote of the day.



and lol vskid3 i did indeed mean cooling. I should change that

Eigma (how do u do that symbol!), that fan looks too big. I need a fan that is 7mm or thinner. I have the 2 RAM chips taken care of with a slab of copper.

I am planning on having 2 fans. 1 for the Flipper and 1 for the Gecko. If both fans can have heatsink channels then that would be awesome, but I will prolly only be able to fit one heatsink in there, then mount a slightly smaller fan on the Gecko (but have a metal plate on the chip to even out the heat transfer).

^ in other words, I have NO idea what I am doing.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

I can tell. I don't think many people do though. It's a greek sigma... I copy and paste it... What would be the ideal thickness for a self-contained gamecube cooling system? 1cm? or less?

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GCpMp Worklog

^




http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/88-6131 ... -Fan-.html?
this could ALMOST work. But the screw posts won't all line up and the fan isn't quite blowing in the right direction. (I want the airflow to be perpendicular to the chips).

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

Okay, if you can find a very thin (and cheap) motor, I should be able to get a (a bunch) heatsink/fan combo under 7mm designed and Cnc'd in the next few months (No promises here though).

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GCpMp Worklog

Here's what I think. Copper plate on its own as a heatsink is a bad idea imho. It transfers heat from the CPU faster than aluminium, but also retains it longer which means it will get hotter that aluminum in a shorter space of time. Aluminum just takes longer to cool down. So, unless you have a series of fans, blowing cold air in AND hot air out I'd avoid copper plates.
I think you'd get away without anything at all on the Ram. But if you want something that blows through the top, why not just get a simple laptop one that has heat pipes. They can be bent into different shapes as long as you get one with pipes that are roughly the length you need. I use them all the time.

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