This is my second N64 portable, and I'm shooting for world's smallest. I'm taking everything I learned from my first portable and applying it to this portable. Also, no RCP wire. It will be smaller than the tri-sixty-force because it will have no spacer, however it is the same case (an SL-68p). Progress!

First off, the case:



Now, the board. What I did was solder through the outside holes, unlike most portables which solder on top of the holes or through the middle holes and drag soldered out. The reason for this was to solder that soldering to the outside holes will make it much stronger and it was much quicker to do. It worked on the first try! So how I did this was by tinning all of the board's outer connections and then using my desoldering iron to remove the solder. Once I had this done, I just soldered the IDE through the board and snipped it like I was soldering a kit! . This did not take very long to do. However, I could not remove some of the solder on the edge of the cart slot, so I did have to solder on top for that part. Anyway, pics:

I cleaned this off before I relocated:

Relocated:


The controller is pretty awesome , It has green ceramics! It's a super pad and on the back it says patent pending, so I think it was one of the first models! I'm going to cut this pretty small too. Pics:

Teh Caps:


Here's the board in it's case. However, it will be cut a lot smaller than this:


Here's the mobo's side by side:


Update 1:


It will also have an expansion pack that is bent at a 90 degree angle. Anyone know how to do that? Also, i'm thinking of a name as we speak, so any help would be appreciated. Progress tomorrow!

- mymixed

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What I suggest is to RCP just the top row so it'll fit in the case (I don't think it will fit if you don't without a spacer).

My friend showed me this idea and even wired up an n64 like so, it seems like a great idea to me.

I don't think I'll have to RCP, because the cart slot will cover up the top of the board(Like the tri-sixty-force). Also, I need to find some really thin batteries.

- mymixed

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My thoughts:
1.It looks like you wired 7.4v to the back of the board. That will add height in the long run. Try to wire everything to the top of the board.
2. If you're getting composite from c16, I suggest wiring to the output side of the cap not the input.
3. I really don't see why you relocated the cart slot. I'd just solder it in place.

Keep up the good work.

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-------Bud's PMP------------JB-64-------Unnamed---------Unnamed#2------Throwback64----

Throwback64 V2.0---
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That's probably a good idea. At the time, I was thinking of saving space for my sheetsink, but that cap won't be in the way. Also, It'll run off 3.7v stepped up to 5v and regulated down to 3.3v. I mostly relocated it for fun. Plus, the wire's look cool . Any other tips?

- mymixed

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I'm entering the race: My µGC Worklog (WIP)

*thinks of other excuses*

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If you're doing all of that, you might as well cut as much as I did. It's pretty straight forward once you wire to the U1 chip. Let me know If you need any help young padawan.

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-------Bud's PMP------------JB-64-------Unnamed---------Unnamed#2------Throwback64----

Throwback64 V2.0---
Commissions thread
Check out my YouTube!

What about the four transistor's on the back of the board, master? Can I cut right through them? Are they useless?
That would be a perfect spot to put my audio amps...

- mymixed

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I cut mine off. Never had any issues.

Look at that picture I posted. You can cut off that much, no problem.

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-------Bud's PMP------------JB-64-------Unnamed---------Unnamed#2------Throwback64----

Throwback64 V2.0---
Commissions thread
Check out my YouTube!