I'll do some testing in a couple days. How should we wire this up?

We still need the actual button press that is at the end of the triggers, but what about the 3 potentiometer soldering points? What should we do with them???

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

It should be just like any other potentiometer to wire up. One voltage line, one ground and one resistance line. I haven't had a chance to putz about with what is what yet. I'll get to it in a bit.

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Right but we are trying to get rid of the potentiometer. But we can't leave those lines unwired because the controller messes up without the potentiometer hooked up.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

The resistor line is the only line going to the chip however like you say there has to be 2 resistors otherwise the controller won't work properly.

One is the resistance when the buttons is not pressed (slider up) and the other is the resistance when the button is fully pressed (slider down).

so:

3v > resistor (not pushed value) > tact switch > resistor in series (pushed value)

As far as I know that should work. I have yet to test it myself. As for the values it might be slightly difference per controller. When I get round to it I'll also post my info.

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I was just about to post the exact same thing Zen, thx for typing it for me. lol

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Only just found out it might be wrong I just checked the resistance with a multimeter on a original controller and a gamecube wii classic knockoff.

between 3v and resistance line I get around 7k ohm when not pressed and 450 ohm when pressed. However it's the opposite between ground and resistance. That would mean wiring it like I said on with the 3v line is not possible as you can't reduce ohm's that way. Maybe wiring it to ground would be a better solution. I'm going to the shops tomorrow and get some resistors and play around with it.

I also have a trustpad wii classic controller which doesn't have analog shoulder buttons. I'll ahve a look inside and see how they did it. As for the classic knock off it was 5k ohm no pressed and 200 ohm when pressed. I doubt it'll make much of a difference but then again some controllers can be picky.

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The way I wired it in my portable was I just left the pot intact, epoxied not pushed down, and then put a switch going between the two outside pins. I don't think theres any real need to remove the pot itself, since it doesn't take almost any room up.

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lol this^ seems like the most simple solution. I don't know why I was thinking so hard about rewiring and other crap. The pot is so tiny that you could just relocate it somewhere in the case and then just use the L and R tacts for the shoulder buttons.

Any reason NOT to do it this way???

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

The way I had it in my head was to use a normally open/closed tact. Just like I use for the Wiikey eject switch. The "common" pin going to either voltage or ground (have to test what the controller wants). The "NC" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The "NO" pin to a (insert resistance)resistor>resistor dataline. The resistances of course corresponding to whatever the values of "all the way up/all the way down" for that controller. If that makes sense....

Of course, if there's room for it unicyclers way works also.

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That works exactly the same way as using a resistor. So yeah you can do that if you have space for it. Ofcourse the point of this method is using it without the analog slider but he it works either way.

Edit: Ashen that was exactly the same thing I wa thinking... thnx for typing it so I don't have to bother

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