Thanks, I really appreciate everything you guys reply...


Until now, I used old IDE cable for wiring. Since Twisted pair cable (CAT6 or something) is AWG27 to AWG22, would that be suitable, too? Which diameter is better - large AWG24 or small AWG28?

j4y- I ran into something tonight made me think of your pictures...
I opened my cube to work on some controller stuff, decided to hook up the eject switch [29/GND] with quick disconnects for easier access. I got good continuity, but it wasn't working right afterwards. Seems like I had to 'pump' or just hold down the switch for a awhile to get gc-linux to load. I went back to plain soldered wires and everything was fine...
My point: even with apparent continuity; maybe your terminal blocks are getting in the way. Too much latency despite what the meter says. Just an idea.

Hello everybody,

I have a little question. Sorry for my english, I'm french.
Is it really necessary to put a switch on pin 29 Wii?
Without switch the wiikey would it not constantly lit?

back at it again. So my wiikey worked fine for a while. It was booting a bit funky , but I knew I needed the 1.5 update.

So I downloaded the 1.5 update (using an old wiikey serial pin, does that matter?) and then successfully updated my wiikey fusion.

Then I added games to the SD card. Now the activation switch doesn't work, I see the flashing, but the switch and pin 29 do NOTHING. Tried adding more ground, tried SS's 1.9v trick. No luck.

My pin 29 wire is a thin kynar wire and is 4.5" long. Does that matter? Why would it stop working after the update?

NOTE: I DO NOT get any errors. It just keeps flickering, same as the gamecube menu flicker between reading disc. Waiting for an activation that I can't seem to do.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

Couldn't hurt to use a thicker wire.

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WAIT. SOMETHINGS HAPPENING. OH GAWD, SS I SWEAR, YOU MIGHT BE RIGHT.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

Wouldn't be the first time.

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okay, I got a steady blue light at one point. Now nothings happening. But I feel like I'm getting close. Using a thicker wire got me that blue light once. I'll keep toying with it.

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Fun fact: The screen for Project P will have a higher resolution than the Macbook Retina Displays

Hello thread,
I've spent the last day trying to get my wiikey fusion to work on my GC. The model is a (EUR) DOL - 001, so the compatability is all fine, I'm sure. The issue is that I can't get the linux game to show up in the when I go up in the main menu, it is stuck perpetually at 'reading disk' and 'Please insert a NINTENDO Gamecube game', and just flickers between the two. When I turn the GC on the blue light on the wiikey flickers once with a pale blue light, but it won't always come back on when I'm in the disk section.

I've checked, re-checked and triple checked the connections with a multimeter, and they all appear to work, and I couldn't find any short circuits. The wires were kept very short, so latency wouldn't be an issue. I've read through the forum and I tried relocating the ground to the edge of the GC board, as Ashen suggested for a similar issue. The blue light used to come on all the time when it was 'reading disk' but that stopped when the ground got relocated.

The wiikey is running firmware 1.5, and is comfirmed working with the card reader through my wii. I'm lost as to what the issue might be, but I feel the button looks very suspect, but I'd love your opinions. I'm attaching pictures below to help out.

[The floating jumble of wires is the grounded wires all being connected together and to the board in a single wire, I hope this is right. I tried one wire per hole, but that didn't work, so I tried this when Ashen mentioned bridging the grounds, or somthing of the sort. The connections there are all True]

[img]F:\101H2H1_\DSC_9197.jpg[/img]

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